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Old 10-23-2020, 07:56 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Belgian View Post
I have the W22 chassis also and am very happy with acceleration and braking.
I want to be as polite as possible; I understand wanting the best performance out of a vehicle but, why buy a 20,000 lb. vehicle and expect it to accelerate like a car and get 30 MPG? Spending $$$ to get 2 HP more or 2 MPG doesn't make sense to me. The return on investment for most add-ons to a MH will take 200,000 miles to make a difference.
Sounds like I'm a cheap ol'Scrooge doesn't it?
What it is really about is being able to tow my Jeep and stay in high gear. Stock engine tuning was marginal if it would actually run in high gear. Virtually every bridge, it would downshift. Drove me nuts. So for a small increase in power, just puts it over the threshold where it will run in overdrive 90% of the time unless you hit a real hill.
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Old 10-23-2020, 09:46 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveinet View Post
What it is really about is being able to tow my Jeep and stay in high gear. Stock engine tuning was marginal if it would actually run in high gear. Virtually every bridge, it would downshift. Drove me nuts. So for a small increase in power, just puts it over the threshold where it will run in overdrive 90% of the time unless you hit a real hill.
That downshifting on slight grades bothers me. I don't mind dropping one gear, but dropping two when it's really not necessary gets bothersome. I try to keep the engine around 3,400 rpm when climbing a grade, but put your foot in it more than 1/2 way and it will jump another gear and you're at 4,000 rpm or more, so I usually end up letting off the throttle to upshift and drop the rpms back.

I guess some of the performance upgrades will address this, but I can't see spending $1,000 or more just for a minor annoyance. Are there any programming upgrades for less than $500 that will fix the downshifting characteristics, or should I just look at things like mufflers? Personally, I've had bad luck with exhaust upgrades on cars in the past, finding they seldom do much for performance and just make more noise, but I'm open to hearing what's worked for others.

Climbing something like Wolf Creek Pass (which I did just last month) is another story. In that case I just accept that it's going to take 4,000 rpm to maintain 30-35 mph.
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Old 10-23-2020, 09:57 PM   #31
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I totally agree with the enjoyment factor, it is fun to putts around and wash, clean, polish, shine, repair, add things etc.

I'm not so sure about the crawling under though, I'm getting a little to crickety for that.
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Old 10-24-2020, 08:26 AM   #32
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That downshifting on slight grades bothers me. I don't mind dropping one gear, but dropping two when it's really not necessary gets bothersome...

I guess some of the performance upgrades will address this, but I can't see spending $1,000 or more just for a minor annoyance. Are there any programming upgrades for less than $500 that will fix the downshifting characteristics, or should I just look at things like mufflers? Personally, I've had bad luck with exhaust upgrades on cars in the past, finding they seldom do much for performance and just make more noise, but I'm open to hearing what's worked for others.
Just replacing mufflers alone will likely not help. I already swapped out to headers, due to exhaust manifold warpage and broken bolts. That was a major expense, but I really had no choice. Where I started this thread was trying to figure out if the stock muffler flow was adequate for the headers to still do their job. Still don't know the answer yet.

As far as shifting annoyance, Brazels UltraPower tuning for the engine and trans will pretty much solve that. The trans shift points are tons better. Not sure why the factory settings were so poor.
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Old 10-24-2020, 08:45 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamJam1 View Post
That downshifting on slight grades bothers me. I don't mind dropping one gear, but dropping two when it's really not necessary gets bothersome. I try to keep the engine around 3,400 rpm when climbing a grade, but put your foot in it more than 1/2 way and it will jump another gear and you're at 4,000 rpm or more, so I usually end up letting off the throttle to upshift and drop the rpms back.

I guess some of the performance upgrades will address this, but I can't see spending $1,000 or more just for a minor annoyance. Are there any programming upgrades for less than $500 that will fix the downshifting characteristics, or should I just look at things like mufflers? Personally, I've had bad luck with exhaust upgrades on cars in the past, finding they seldom do much for performance and just make more noise, but I'm open to hearing what's worked for others.

Climbing something like Wolf Creek Pass (which I did just last month) is another story. In that case I just accept that it's going to take 4,000 rpm to maintain 30-35 mph.
Good Morning,

I added the UltraRV Ultra Power Custom tune with the Ultra TCM tune for the Allison.

See HERE. Their power graphs show a healthy increase in power across the RPM range. My seat of the pants dyno says that they their charts are probably correct. The dyno was a chassis dyno that measured rear wheel horsepower. I'm guessing that the crankshaft horsepower is close to 400 HP with the tune. I still use unleaded regular 85 or 87 octane whichever is offered where I fuel.

There is a noticeable increase in acceleration. The most rewarding improvement addresses exactly your complaint. When using cruise control before I had tune, the slightest incline induced a drop in RPM then a shift out of overdrive into 4th and sometimes followed soon by a shift into 3rd at the expense of several MPH.

Now the transmission hangs in 5th gear much longer and there seems to be more power available at a ≈3000 RPM. Grades that used to require a shift into 3rd now are crested in 4th at the MPH set on the cruise control.

I added a vacuum gauge. Now when driving with the cruise control engaged I watch the vacuum gauge as I approach a hill. When vacuum nears zero I tap the throttle. This induces a shift out of 5th gear a little sooner and preserves a few RPM giving 4th gear a better chance of making it to the top of the hill without downshifting again. The transmission will stay in 4th gear until vacuum exceeds ≈5 inches vacuum then upshifts into 5th.

There are other tuners available for your 8.1L GM engine and for the Allison as well. I'm not presuming that UltraRV's tune is better than others but I bought it because it was aimed especially at motorhomes and engine/transmissions that were always under load. UltraRV and Brazel's RV seem to be the closely aligned or are the same. They are VERY responsive if you have issues or questions.

I might have even got a very slight improvement in fuel economy as well. That one is hard to tell.
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Old 10-24-2020, 01:58 PM   #34
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Thanks for the explanation Dave and YD. Looks like Brazel's upgrade for engine and transmission would set me back $695... a little more than my self-imposed $500 limit, but not too far out of line. Hard to justify when we just do one or two trips a year, but if we're going to be using the moho a bit more in coming years it could be worth it.
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Old 10-29-2020, 11:26 PM   #35
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Did the Ultra at Brazil’s in 2017 and chaned to torque tube headers. Pleased with the increase in hp.
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