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Old 05-29-2019, 04:17 PM   #1
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W22 Workhorse Chassis 8.1 L V8 turns over won't start

I was going to start my MH and exercise the generator. I do his every month during the winter. I have a 2005 Holiday Rambler Admiral on a w22 work horse chassis with a 8.1L GM v8. The generator started and I exercised it for 45 minutes. The engine turned over but would not start. I noticed the gas gauge read empty and the message center was saying low fuel. The generator should not run if the fuel tank is at 1/4 full or lower so there is at least 18 gal. of fuel in the tank. The fuel pump fuse and relay are ok. Could the problem be the Fuel pump? If so where can I buy a replacement or find a model number to make sure I get the proper one. I have been told that any fuel pump for a 2005 8.1 L GM will work. I also have been told that one used in a pick up truck may not work because it has to pump the fuel 3 times as far. Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 05-29-2019, 04:23 PM   #2
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Put some gas in it before you spend a lot of money on parts. Some MH have generators that will drain the tank. They aren’t supposed to but??

Terry
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Old 05-29-2019, 05:33 PM   #3
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25028274 In Tank Fuel Pump AC Delco/GM

25178125 In Tank Fuel Pump AC Delco/GM

SP6100M In Tank Fuel Pump Spectra

P74758M In Tank Fuel Pump Carter

81-891 In Tank Fuel Pump Mills Supply

81-893 In Tank Fuel Pump Mills Supply
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Old 05-29-2019, 10:51 PM   #4
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I agree with 96Bounder1st. Start with the obvious.
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Old 05-29-2019, 11:42 PM   #5
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Is your coach sitting completely level?
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Old 05-30-2019, 08:15 AM   #6
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How about testing fuel pressure at the schraider valve test point on the fuel rail (passenger side fuel rail, I think between the front and second injector). It should be around 50-55 psi, if low check the function on the fuel pressure regulator (drivers side fuel rail, I think, though design changed in 05 or 06), then fuel filter (inside frame rail, passenger side, forward of the fuel tank), then finally the in tank pump.
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:37 PM   #7
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problem solved

Thanks everyone for your ideas.
We solved the problem today. My son who is a 'gear head' and was a diesel mechanic for several years came to help me. He thought since I start it every month and fill the tank before winterizing it was probable not a broken fuel pump and given the fact that the generator would run it was not out of gas. By turning the ignition on and off it was obvious the motor was not getting any fuel. He used his tester on the fuel rail and did not get any pressure. Then he went back under the motorhome and was able to see on top of the fuel tank. He saw what looked like a cut wire at the fuel pump. We dropped the tank down about 10 inches and he was able to disconnect the fuel pump harness. Three of the four wires had been chewed into, probably by a mouse. Repaired the wires with heat shrink water proof connectors. Put everything back together and it started right up. Not bad for a couple hours work and saved me big bucks. By the way my son went on to be a mechanical engineer and recently decided to become a teacher.
Thanks again for all the posts
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:48 PM   #8
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Thanks for the update! Good to have some smart kids in the family for sure.
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadhouse2 View Post
Thanks everyone for your ideas.
We solved the problem today. My son who is a 'gear head' and was a diesel mechanic for several years came to help me. He thought since I start it every month and fill the tank before winterizing it was probable not a broken fuel pump and given the fact that the generator would run it was not out of gas. By turning the ignition on and off it was obvious the motor was not getting any fuel. He used his tester on the fuel rail and did not get any pressure. Then he went back under the motorhome and was able to see on top of the fuel tank. He saw what looked like a cut wire at the fuel pump. We dropped the tank down about 10 inches and he was able to disconnect the fuel pump harness. Three of the four wires had been chewed into, probably by a mouse. Repaired the wires with heat shrink water proof connectors. Put everything back together and it started right up. Not bad for a couple hours work and saved me big bucks. By the way my son went on to be a mechanical engineer and recently decided to become a teacher.
Thanks again for all the posts
Good news, glad the problem is solved
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Old 06-06-2019, 11:00 PM   #10
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I can tell you are proud of your son. And rightly so!
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:04 AM   #11
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Glad you got it sorted out. Mice can cause a lot of damage.


Question on dropping the tank. How much did you disconnect and did you have to completely remove the tank bands? I know the day is coming when I need to replace my generator fuel line so curious to figure out from those who have gone before me working on the tank.
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Old 06-07-2019, 09:31 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
Glad you got it sorted out. Mice can cause a lot of damage.


Question on dropping the tank. How much did you disconnect and did you have to completely remove the tank bands? I know the day is coming when I need to replace my generator fuel line so curious to figure out from those who have gone before me working on the tank.


Hi vn,

Ive dropped the tank on our adventurer twice. Both times it had 30-40 gallons of fuel in it. The hardest part of entire process is getting the filler neck and vents and hose clamps off. Pretty simple with a long screwdriver. There is a grounding strap by the filler neck that must be disconnected.

The straps all have to be completely removed. Two bolts, one on each side of each strap.

My Winnebagos have a large brace that connects the two rear jacks together. This brace does not have to be removed unless you want to take the tank all the way to the ground.

The fuel pump wiring, hoses and generator hose is coiled one time on top of the tank so there is plenty of slack in the hose to drop the tank 12-14” to the brace or all the way to the ground.

The first time I dropped the tank we used a Craftsman motorcycle lift style jack. It worked good. The second time we used 2 floor jacks with two 18” wide 2x6 boards on the jack to spread the load. This method worked good too but took two people to lower the tank smoothly.

One thing that is very important. You must put the tank back into its exact position or things will not line up properly. The pump lines and generator fuel line can get pinched if you reposition the tank even 1/2” forward from the correct position.

The hardest part of the whole process is getting the filler neck and vent slipped back on and tightened.
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Old 06-07-2019, 11:25 AM   #13
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Thanks for the information. Sounds like I will need to mark the tank position real well prior to dropping the tank whenever that day comes (never I hope )
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Old 06-07-2019, 11:11 PM   #14
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Thanks for the information. Sounds like I will need to mark the tank position real well prior to dropping the tank whenever that day comes (never I hope )
The straps leave a pretty good mark on the bottom of the tank. It's easy see where it goes. To be more precise you can take a simple measurement from the front or rear top edge of the tank to a frame cross member. Write than measurement down. Make sure you get the tank right back in the same place as it started.
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