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Aeronaut · 12-17-2021, 11:00 AM

First of all-----HELP! Now, deep breath—Good morning. I’ve just had a new emotional experience working on (new to me) 2004 Sightseer WFD30B P32 with 8.1L Vortec.
Did you realize they manufactured these with hose clamps that actually drive you mad? Won’t even to mention claustrophobic work spaces. I’m not afraid of work, but I’m afraid for my sanity after addressing the top radiator hose.
Okay deep breath. If any of you have some advice, I would be most appreciative.
I am think maybe Wild Turkey and Xanax and lots of bandaids. I have about 4500 miles on this coach since purchasing it 3 months ago and love it. It had less than 20K on it, but it is a 2004. Can you imagine it has the original coolant hoses on it? I now know why.
Okay, to the point. I noticed some serpentine belt accessory noise while idling. So I started looking into it. I’ve been doing some maintenance on it since I bought it, such as oil and filter changes and coolant flush and renew. I have since cleaned the MAF and changed the air filter.
If anyone has tips on doing surgery on this unit to get to the water pump, I would be most appreciative. I have removed the air filter snorkel and lower radiator hose (which had worm type hose clamps, so some previous maintenance has been done), I also found that a chunk of the upper fan shroud is missing, I’m sure from some sort of previous maintenance, for what I couldn’t tell. Once I removed the serpentine belt I checked all pulleys for noise, just a very slight wine in the water pump (should I replace it?) I could use some advice on what to replace on the front of this engine while so it’ll be good for another 17 years or so. I will sell this before I get in here again. I have ordered a workhorse manual for this year P32, maybe it will present the secret to access.
Thank you for any advice you can give me on preserving mental health, and what I should address while operating on this unit.

Isaac-1 · 12-17-2021, 05:39 PM

I have not changed the water pump, but did change out the fan clutch on my 2002 P32 with 8.1L, I did this from the top, and it was not too bad of job after first removing the alternator and the tensioner and the idler pulley (all of which were replaced at the same time, I had already bought the fan clutch the the intention of getting around to changing it when the alternator failed, idler and tensioner showed signs of wear, so were changed as a preventative measure).

CamJam1 · 12-17-2021, 08:05 PM

Did you replace the little curved bypass hose? I understand that it's a %$*&! to get to.

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/1255...mp-Bypass-Hose

I wouldn't touch the water pump unless it's leaking, loose or making bearing noises.

Aeronaut · 12-17-2021, 08:14 PM

Thanks for your reply Isaac-1. I chatted with Brazel's and they said not to mess with the cam sensor, just replace the water pump, by pass hose, and the t-stat. After pulling the idler and tensioner if you had enough room, I should. I was thinking of removing the throttle body, but not unless really necessary. Hope I can get that top radiator hose off the radiator. Have you any experience with those heat shrink hose clamps I came across? They are spendy, but with these tight clearances, a cut away would be handy if ever having to replace again. By the way, how did you know the fan clutch was going bad in your rig?
Thanks again for chiming in

Soppy · 12-18-2021, 07:17 AM

I had to replace a leaking waterpump on my 93. I started from the top , then noticed the radiator had a slight leak in the core near the bottom. I had to remove the front section to get at the rad. Once it was out and the waterpump off , I replaced the timing chain and sprockets as well as all the belts ,hoses and fan clutch.It took a full day to remove the front section, but sure made it easy to work on.

Aeronaut · 12-18-2021, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamJam1

Did you replace the little curved bypass hose? I understand that it's a %$*&! to get to.

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/1255...mp-Bypass-Hose

I wouldn't touch the water pump unless it's leaking, loose or making bearing noises.

My Sightseer is a 2004, like my first post said I'm having some squeaking and accessory noise while idling. I know from previous experience the longer I put off researching this, the faster I'll get to experience the displeasure of the tow service or worse. There is a very slight whine in the water pump when I spin it, sounds like maybe the seal is getting stiff. l've ordered the Delco 252-783, bypass hose, upper and lower radiator hoses, and when I get the tensioner off, I'll replace the bearings in it and the idler pulley, and of course if I cannot replace the bearings, will replace with new. I have spun all the pulley operated accessories, and they are quiet accept the water pump with the quiet whine. If I could spin them all with 600-700 RPM I could track it down, but alas I cannot. I did see a coolant drop on part of the frame below the cooling package, that I have not traced to the water pump, yet.
I am already psyching myself up for this war with the hose clamps, (BTW if anyone has recommendations on hose clamps, I'm listening) and have ordered the things that Workhorse told me to replace while down there. This work is all to be done as soon as I can get to it. Thanks for your reply CamJam1.

Aeronaut · 12-18-2021, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soppy

I had to replace a leaking water pump on my 93. I started from the top , then noticed the radiator had a slight leak in the core near the bottom. I had to remove the front section to get at the rad. Once it was out and the water pump off , I replaced the timing chain and sprockets as well as all the belts ,hoses and fan clutch. It took a full day to remove the front section, but sure made it easy to work on.

Just reached 23K miles. Hope no timing chain for me yet. My unit is a P32 with the 8.1L Vortec. My last unit was a 94 Georgie Boy diesel pusher. Did a big replacement of the 6.5 diesel only to be jinxed with chassis electrical. Hope this one will work out better. Thanks Soppy for chiming in I work on this beast, sometimes wish I had my 72 Superior back. Sounds like you should have trouble free cruising with all your work. Take care

mfire1339 · 12-18-2021, 11:22 AM

I removed the throttle body for access to bypass and tstat. There is a special tool for removing the bypass hose clamps.

Mike

Aeronaut · 12-18-2021, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfire1339

I removed the throttle body for access to bypass and tstat. There is a special tool for removing the bypass hose clamps.

Mike

Hey Mike, thanks, that's just what I wanted to find out. I haven't received a engine manual for the 8.1L yet, just on quick perusal it looks like a couple of bolts holding it down and the electrical plug. Is there anything I should be aware of? Does it require a specialized gasket? Any idea of the torque settings for the bolts? I know, I know I am full of questions, but I appreciate any help to keep me from making a small job into a week long one. I am hoping my Dremel will help make quick work of the hose clamp. I did have a special 2 ft. long clamp removal tool with the cable pulley and the 2 ears that come together, but it broke trying to remove the top radiator hose from the engine. I'm still debating the approach to take on the top hose at the radiator connection. They definitely built these things for the Terminator to work on (stretchable steel arms!). Did you reuse the hose clamps? I'm looking for a good replacement. Thanks again.

vettenuts · 12-18-2021, 03:12 PM

I replaced my water pump twice, first replacement failed in 300 miles. I would personally replace the idler, tensioner and fan clutch since it all comes out for the pump. I saved my old idler and tensioner for on the road replacements after installing new bearings.

I would also buy four cheap longer bolts for the pump. Cut off the hex heads so you have correctly threaded studs. Before installing the pump, install the studs into the block and the gaskets on the studs. Then put the water pump on the studs so they hold the weight as the pump is quite heavy, especially in that confined working space. Then remove one lower stud while pressing the pump against the block to keep the gasket from moving and install the bolt finger tight. Repeat on the other lower bolt. Then do the uppers. Once all the bolts are in place you can tighten per procedure to the specified torque value.

Aeronaut · 12-18-2021, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vettenuts

I replaced my water pump twice, first replacement failed in 300 miles. I would personally replace the idler, tensioner and fan clutch since it all comes out for the pump. I saved my old idler and tensioner for on the road replacements after installing new bearings.

I would also buy four cheap longer bolts for the pump. Cut off the hex heads so you have correctly threaded studs. Before installing the pump, install the studs into the block and the gaskets on the studs. Then put the water pump on the studs so they hold the weight as the pump is quite heavy, especially in that confined working space. Then remove one lower stud while pressing the pump against the block to keep the gasket from moving and install the bolt finger tight. Repeat on the other lower bolt. Then do the uppers. Once all the bolts are in place you can tighten per procedure to the specified torque value.

Excellent Idea vettenuts! I'll certainly use the stud idea. I'm thinking having an extra tensioner and idler pulley are great ideas as well. But why did the first changed water pump fail at 300 miles? Thank you for the suggestions.

vettenuts · 12-19-2021, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aeronaut

Excellent Idea vettenuts! I'll certainly use the stud idea. I'm thinking having an extra tensioner and idler pulley are great ideas as well. But why did the first changed water pump fail at 300 miles? Thank you for the suggestions.

Don't know, but RockAuto wouldn't warranty it because they said it's not a listed item for the 8.3 motor. Replaced with the same pump from Amazon.

Soppy · 12-19-2021, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aeronaut

Excellent Idea vettenuts! I'll certainly use the stud idea. I'm thinking having an extra tensioner and idler pulley are great ideas as well. But why did the first changed water pump fail at 300 miles? Thank you for the suggestions.

I always use OEM parts or brand name racing parts for replacements, especially if they are difficult to replace. Sometimes the quality control is not very good on some aftermarket replacements.

Isaac-1 · 12-19-2021, 09:50 AM

In theory that is nice, but you don't always have a choice, a few days ago the starter went out on our coach as we were trying to pull out of an RV park in Galveston, TX , so I had to buy what was available, which was not much. At the 3rd auto parts store we tried we finally found someone with a starter in stock, which turned out to be a Carquest branded rebuild with lifetime warranty.