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12-06-2021, 02:31 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Watertown NY USA
Posts: 6,531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2zon
It's a hydraulic system. There should be no such thing as "weak pressure" in one corner. Check the hose and caliper, as others have suggested. And, find someone competent to work on your brakes.
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You are correct there 'shouldn't' be weak pressure anywhere but there can be. I have seen brake hoses deteriorated so badly inside there was very little pressure going through them. Usually caused by something foreign in the brake fluid such as automatic transmission fluid.
__________________
2002 Fleetwood Storm 30H on Workhorse P32 chassis 8.1 gas.
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12-06-2021, 03:36 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 32
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Well today I took tire off to inspect everything. Rotor seems to be warped also, rubs in one spot when turning it. One thing hoping wasnt gonna have to pull off 
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12-07-2021, 06:19 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Versailles, KY
Posts: 47
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I had a caliper stick on my 2002 Workhorse while on the Blue Ridge Pky. My TPMS temperature alarm went off. I pulled over for an hour and everything returned to normal. When I got home, I had all the hoses and calipers replaced, and flushed the brake fluid with some HP stuff I found on Amazon. Brakes seem to get a little better every trip. I think the pads were glazed.
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2002 Winnebago Sightseer 27c
P32 Workhorse, widebody, narrow front track
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12-08-2021, 04:42 AM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 32
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Yesterday I took off off the rotor and had it turned, turned out really good.
I looked at the caliper and noticed how bad it was so decided to change caliper and hose on both sides, with new pads of course.
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12-08-2021, 03:06 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 32
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12-09-2021, 05:40 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 847
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Well done. You’ll never regret taking care of this.
__________________
Marvin (and Eileen) - 1997 34’ Gas Bounder / 1996 F53 Chassis | Towing 1996 Ford Ranger on Acme Dolly
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12-09-2021, 05:53 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Watertown NY USA
Posts: 6,531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarvinG
Well done. You’ll never regret taking care of this.
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__________________
2002 Fleetwood Storm 30H on Workhorse P32 chassis 8.1 gas.
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12-10-2021, 06:21 AM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 32
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Only problem im having is getting a lot of air out of one side, probly take it out for a spin then try bleeding it some more.... 
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12-10-2021, 06:48 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: NY State
Posts: 3,088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frebird
Only problem im having is getting a lot of air out of one side, probly take it out for a spin then try bleeding it some more.... |
You want properly working brakes before you drive it.
Bleed from the most distant wheel from the master cylinder first, generally the right rear. Then, bleed the other brakes from next most distant to closest (usually RR, LR, RF, LF). Make sure you don't let the master cylinder run dry as you go, which can introduce air into the ABS pump (if so equipped, not a given in 1994) at worst, and make you have to start over at best.
Bleed each position until you get clear fluid out the bleed screw to make sure you have fresh brake fluid throughout. You are done when no more air comes out. I vaguely recall using about a quart of brake fluid when I last worked on our 34' P30 to get clear, clean fluid at all four corners. This is *much* easier with an assistant and (for a coach) a pair of FRS radios to tell the assistant when to pump the brakes and when to hold them.
BTW, it's too late now, but before removing a caliper, it helps to lock the brake pedal in the forward position to close the valves in the master cylinder so you don't drain an entire line from MC to caliper, and the MC, and perhaps parts of other lines, depending on how they run. You only lose a little brake fluid from the line this way (more importantly, you introduce less air, since you'll replace the fluid anyway).
The ROT on hydraulic brakes is to replace the fluid every 2-3 years. It's hygroscopic, and you need to get the water that's gone into solution out to prevent corrosion that destroys calipers and wheel cylinders over time. The fluid is cheap; the calipers, not so much.
HTH.
__________________
John
1976 Southwind 28', '96 Winnie 34WK,
2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40QDP
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12-10-2021, 06:57 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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Is the bleader on top of the caliper ?
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12-10-2021, 07:17 AM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 32
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Unfortunately I dont have a helper, using a brake breeder kit...
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12-10-2021, 08:48 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northwestern Montana
Posts: 3,514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
Is the bleader on top of the caliper ?
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My thought also, especially after replacing both calipers.
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Dieselclacker
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12-10-2021, 11:19 AM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 32
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Got a new toy this morning, never used one of these. Ill try it out in a couple of days.....  Ill work on it, try to getting all air out before taking it out for a spin
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12-10-2021, 04:13 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 847
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Good luck with that! I never could get mine to work. I now use the little cup thing as the container to transfer brake fluid into my reservoir. On my Ford F53 Chassis/Fleetwood the master cylinder is located up high where a) I can’t pour fluid in easily so this little cup/lid/short piece of tubing acts like a little pitcher to transfer the fluid. B) the good part of that is with the cylinder so high, once I get the fluid flowing, as long as I don’t let the reservoir run dry, all I have to do is open the bleeder and it bleeds itself (mostly, just about.)
__________________
Marvin (and Eileen) - 1997 34’ Gas Bounder / 1996 F53 Chassis | Towing 1996 Ford Ranger on Acme Dolly
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