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12-03-2021, 05:51 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 32
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Workhorse Brake Caliper Sticking
About a month ago I had a few things serviced on my motorhome.
One thing they did was flushed and bled the brakes, the guy told
me that the pressure at one caliper was little weak. Today I took
it for a spin and that brake caliper that had weak pressure was
sticking. Anybody have any suggestions on anything to check or
should I just replace the caliper? Its a 1994 Chevy p30 chassis...
Southwind 
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12-03-2021, 06:02 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 305
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If you loosen the bleeder does that relax the brakes? If so replace the hose.
__________________
2004 Winnebago Adventurer - W22
2013 Hyundai Elantra coupe - toad
2010 Ford Ranger - toad
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12-03-2021, 06:37 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: America's Seaplane City.
Posts: 1,177
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The slides tend to get corroded and stick. There are Utube videos on caliper disassembly. It's enough of an issue that annual or bi annual cleaning and re-lubing would be prudent. Not terribly difficult. Also a good time to do a fluid flush.
__________________
1998 Safari Trek 2480, 7.4 Vortec, 118k miles
'15 Kawasaki Versys650LT, well farkled, 104k miles
Mid Flowriduh
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12-03-2021, 08:06 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,353
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How old are the brake hoses? If 20 plus years.. way past time to change out.. depending on how old the brake old was... you are still going to have rebuild the calipers because old brake oil holds water.. so the piston is hanging up on rust.. you must flush brakes every 2yrs.. or rust builds up inside.. you can get re man ones.. or rebuild kit for 15 bucks and do it yourself..
How old was brake oil before flush..?
I suspect you have problems and hoped a flush would be all you needed.. sorry.. if you would have asked before flushing.. we could have givin you are opinions..
Now you get to flush again and put new hoses and rebuild calipers..
Also.. trace each hard line.. and replace as needed..
Good luck and keep us posted
__________________
2000 southwind storm, workhorse custom chassis with 7.4l vortec
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12-03-2021, 10:18 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,222
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As K Charles says,
Have a friend depress the pedal firmly, and release. Then crack the bleeder screw on the sticking caliper. You will have one of two results.
A) The fluid will squirt out rapidly, and the caliper will release.
If so, the rubber line has collapsed internally and needs replacement.
B) The fluid does not squirt out and the caliper stays tight.
You either will have a bad caliper square seal, or a stuck caliper slider.
Ours is a 11/95 P30 chassis with the JF9 4 wheel disk brakes. We replaced all the rubber hose, rebuilt the caliper (very easy to do) and wire brushed the caliper sliders. When you install add a light coat of high temp grease to the sliders. Should last 3-4 years if you drive at least twice a month.
__________________
Always bring your A game.
1996 Flair 29V, 454 TBI, 4L80E. Your life is your story, don't let someone dictate your story.
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12-04-2021, 03:45 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 32
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Ive only owned this motorhome for about a year. Ive taken it on a few trips but been going through everything getting it ready for a longer trip. went to have something on the front end checked out and the guy recommended to flush the brake fluid because it was dirty so I let him. Its possible this caliper has been causing my problems all along but he did find something and fixed it.
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12-04-2021, 04:40 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: NY State
Posts: 3,089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frebird
About a month ago I had a few things serviced on my motorhome.
One thing they did was flushed and bled the brakes, the guy told
me that the pressure at one caliper was little weak. Today I took
it for a spin and that brake caliper that had weak pressure was
sticking. Anybody have any suggestions on anything to check or
should I just replace the caliper? Its a 1994 Chevy p30 chassis...
Southwind |
It's a hydraulic system. There should be no such thing as "weak pressure" in one corner. Check the hose and caliper, as others have suggested. And, find someone competent to work on your brakes.
__________________
John
1976 Southwind 28', '96 Winnie 34WK,
2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40QDP
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12-04-2021, 04:55 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 32
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Cant afford to pay someone else to fix it. Besides Ive got experience on working on brakes along with a lot of other things. Just needing to diagnose what is needing to be fixed. Appreciate all input on this helping me out..... 
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12-04-2021, 05:16 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 847
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Replace the caliper and hose and move on. Do it yourself and the cost of both won’t be that significant compared to paying a competent shop. I had one stick on my Ford F53 chassis and I am going through all mine, replacing calipers and hoses, rotors as needed and pads, and replacing rusted brake line. Of course repacking the bearing on the fronts, new oil seals on the rear.
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Marvin (and Eileen) - 1997 34’ Gas Bounder / 1996 F53 Chassis | Towing 1996 Ford Ranger on Acme Dolly
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12-05-2021, 08:20 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Pa
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frebird
Cant afford to pay someone else to fix it. Besides Ive got experience on working on brakes along with a lot of other things. Just needing to diagnose what is needing to be fixed. Appreciate all input on this helping me out..... |
Caliper and hoses are reasonably low cost items and somewhat easy to replace. The rotors are far more expensive and way more labor intensive to install, so what ever you do correct the problem before it ruins the rotor. Hopefully it hasn't already done so.
__________________
2004 Coachman Santara 3480DS Workhorse w-22 Ultra Rv tune with Banks headers, Koni shocks
Retired OTR driver ATA 5 million mile safety award
USMC Vet 1968-1972
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12-05-2021, 07:29 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Palm Desert, CA
Posts: 292
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Check if there was a recall on the brakes for your model & year. That was the case for later years.
__________________
Ron & Donna Aikins - Palm Desert, CA
2006 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37C, Workhorse W22
Acme EZE Tow Dolly - 2013 Lexus ES 300h
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12-05-2021, 07:56 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Gardiner
As K Charles says,
Have a friend depress the pedal firmly, and release. Then crack the bleeder screw on the sticking caliper. You will have one of two results.
A) The fluid will squirt out rapidly, and the caliper will release.
If so, the rubber line has collapsed internally and needs replacement.
B) The fluid does not squirt out and the caliper stays tight.
You either will have a bad caliper square seal, or a stuck caliper slider.
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Good tip!
__________________
2004 National Dolphin LX 6320, W-22, 8.1, Allison 1000, Front/rear "Trac" Bars & Anti-sway Bars, Sumo Springs, Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer, 2005 PT Cruiser Toad
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12-06-2021, 06:51 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 2,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJ.
The slides tend to get corroded and stick. There are Utube videos on caliper disassembly. It's enough of an issue that annual or bi annual cleaning and re-lubing would be prudent. Not terribly difficult. Also a good time to do a fluid flush.
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I had a 1988 P30. I believe that it had the same brakes as your 1994. Its slide pins tended to corrode and cause the caliper to stick. I did as above on a bi-annual basis.
As noted, not hard. Look up a Youtube how to and have fun. Will most likely fix your problem and not cost much!
__________________
2003 34' Georgetown on W20 Workhorse Chassis. UltraRV power mods. Doug Thorley Headers and MagnaFlow 12589 mufflers. Front Sumo Springs, Rear P32 Sumo Springs, UltraRV Track Bar.
1998 Jeep Toad.
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12-06-2021, 07:13 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vagaron
Check if there was a recall on the brakes for your model & year. That was the case for later years.
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The OP has a pre-Workhorse P series chassis made by GM (Chevy). NONE of them ( GM or Workhorse )was ever recalled about their brakes.
The brake recall you refer to was issued only for the W-22 series chassis, made from 2001 thru August 2010.
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