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Old 08-16-2022, 06:04 PM   #1
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Workhorse W22 Stabilizer Bar Failure

Had a question about those torsion/stabilizer tubes on the 2003 W22 for anyone who has had to replace one. Are they anything special or just typical A500 1/4" wall tubing? I only ask because my 2 inch front has the split that I have read about on several threads here. It doesn't look like you can even buy the 2 inch anymore so I would have to go with the 2.5 inch upgrade with new brackets which is around $500 total. It appears to be a piece of tubing that can be had from any steel supplier for a 1/3 of the cost. Just wondering if the additional cost is an indication of better materials or because it says Workhorse on the package? Even with the split the rig drives pretty well, but I don't want to push my luck. Thanks for reading!

-Aaron
2003 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
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Old 08-16-2022, 06:09 PM   #2
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I actually have a 2 inches that I’ll give you - if you’ll pay shipping.

I replaced it for a 2.5 insurer I bought from Colaw for $200 I think it was (spring of ‘21). Fortunately, we needed a road trip and drove up there to get it so didn’t have to pay shipping (at least not directly).
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Old 08-16-2022, 06:18 PM   #3
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Did you see a big improvement with the 2.5? I may take you up on the 2 inch if I don't go bigger.
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Old 08-17-2022, 03:03 AM   #4
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Did you see a big improvement with the 2.5? I may take you up on the 2 inch if I don't go bigger.
Some, but the rear track bar, Sumoís all around, and new shocks (Bilsteins) all around I think did far more.

Do a search for the Sumo thread - Iíve actually included my technique for making the install of the fronts even easier. That thread also talks about ordering the rears for a P30 chassis rather than WorkHorse.

I did Bilsteins because Iím cheap and RockAuto seems to always have the best prices with free shipping.
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Old 08-17-2022, 06:27 AM   #5
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I went with Bilsteins as well mostly because the threads I read made the Konis sound like a huge improvement for the 40' and up, but not so noticeable on the smaller rigs like I have. I also used Sumo P30's on the rear. When I did the fronts, the passenger side was very easy. The driver's side was a bit of a pain, but I was able to remove the brake line clamps fore and aft to get some tools in there. Air ratchet was a huge help too!
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Old 08-17-2022, 07:17 AM   #6
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I also just did the UltraPower ECM/TCM upgrade - big difference in performance - and shortly after we got the coach last year I did the TranSyn transmission fluid flush/change (got up the next morning and there was a box of chocolates, a bottle of wine, and a dozen roses from my transmission waiting for me).

You might double check - your engine may or may not have it as WorkHorse was charging the design about that time - there may be a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail - left rear of engine - that can fail and dump raw fuel into the intake manifold. They are known to fail. Checked mine, it was failed. To check, pull the vacuum line off of it and check for the smell of fuel. When I pulled mine, fuel squirted out at me. Obvious failure.

Also - get a recording scanner and record your engine datapoints. Note particularly the Long and Short Term Fuel Trims (I use a FoxWell 301).
There is a guy who does a 30 video on YouTube explaining fuel trims - but basically you don’t want to see LTFT’s higher than 12-15.
Mine was in the high teens, lower 20’s.

With Jon Brazel’s (sponsor here and UltraPower upgrade provider) help, we found my MAF was the culprit even after I soak cleaned it in alcohol. This after also upgrading the plugs to 101’s and wires to Magnum’s.
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Old 08-17-2022, 10:44 AM   #7
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My rig came with the 2.5" factory tube and I also added aftermarket Roadmaster sway bars front and rear. The front bar was the very last thing I added because I assumed the rear bar was more important, but I was surprised at the improvement the front bar made when I finally did install it.

I'd take him up on the free 2 inch factory bar and spend the $500 on an aftermarket bar to go along with it. Not hard to install yourself if you have basic mechanical skills.
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Old 08-17-2022, 11:26 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamJam1 View Post
My rig came with the 2.5" factory tube and I also added aftermarket Roadmaster sway bars front and rear. The front bar was the very last thing I added because I assumed the rear bar was more important, but I was surprised at the improvement the front bar made when I finally did install it.

I'd take him up on the free 2 inch factory bar and spend the $500 on an aftermarket bar to go along with it. Not hard to install yourself if you have basic mechanical skills.
I'd go with this too. In fact, I'm wondering if just going with an aftermarket sway bar would be better without worrying about that square tube "sway bar". Not sure how effective it really is...
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Old 08-19-2022, 06:31 AM   #9
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I was thinking the aftermarket bar may be a better way to go as well. In the mean time I stopped in the welding shop that I buy my supplies from. They had some 2" tube left from a recent project that they let me have for cost and even cut it to the length I needed. Once I pulled the old one out I could see it was nothing special - just typical welded seam tubing. It does tighten up the front end handling a bit compared to the cracked one so it must do a little something. I surprisingly didn't have much rust on mine for being in the northeast, I guess that seam just fatigues over time.

MrMark52 - Thank you for your offer and the other things to watch for! I have the same fuel regulator and no leaks yet, but I will definitely keep an eye on that one. I've been using the Torque App on my phone with a bluetooth connector to keep an eye on the motor. It doesn't have all the features that a dedicated scanner does, but its a nice cheap way to watch the basics - trims, temps, voltages, etc.
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