Community Forums

mpaton · 10-06-2019, 04:56 PM

You're still going to do the fuel pressure test under load though aren't you?

Regarding the other hoses, my own vapor and breather hoses looked good, but I did replace hose leading to the generator.

Michael

semcha · 10-06-2019, 06:23 PM

I am going to do the fuel pressure test. I just want all the info I need lined up, since I'm mobile, and want to know where I can get everything on the road. Thanks!

Sean

mpaton · 10-06-2019, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semcha

I am going to do the fuel pressure test. I just want all the info I need lined up, since I'm mobile, and want to know where I can get everything on the road. Thanks!

Sean

IMO, the tricky parts of the job are getting the fuel fill hose out, and back in, not bending the metal filler stub on the tank, not damaging the screws that hold the pump into the tank, having enough secure jacks to lower the tank as it comes down, while tilting it as well.

Not to mention getting enough fuel out of it to make it manageable.

If I'd known how tricky it was, I might have more seriously considered cutting a hole in the floor under the bed, and accessing it that way. Evan that still involves removing the fresh water tank, and making a 9-12" diameter hole in the correct place. But it can be done. If you search the forum, I think I recall someone successfully doing it that way. It might be easier if you're on the road.

Michael

semcha · 10-11-2019, 08:01 AM

Well, it was the fuel pump. Pressure test showed low pressure with the gauge not holding a steady pressure and dropping a lot on acceleration. I took it to a shop in the next town that was highly recommended and did excellent work. I'm in a state park with freezing temperatures and snow on the ground, so dropping the fuel tank myself didn't seem like a good idea.

They used the fuel pump to drain the tank and reported it took a long time to empty it because of the low pressure. So, good sign it was bad. After they pulled it, they found the entire assembly had been replaced at some point in the past. The sending unit had a 2013 build date on it. The pump itself had been replaced after that by the previous owner. When he did it, he removed the sock, so the pump had sucked up debris from the tank. It was visible in the pump housing. The tank itself had very minimal debris and no sludge. So, definitely the fuel pump had a problem.

Test drive after the fuel pump replacement was perfect. Great acceleration and great power climbing a steep hill. Problem solved. So thank you to subford and mpaton for the excellent and spot on advice.

Odd thing is, when I bought the RV, the engine had issues that made it drop into limp home mode. That ended up being a leaking transmission pan because of a bad installation of the gasket. I wonder if the PO changed the fuel pump when it didn't need it and just created a new problem that showed up after I started putting a lot of miles on the fuel pump.

Sean

mpaton · 10-11-2019, 09:46 AM

Sad, but repairs done to sell something sometimes aren't good repairs. Bet you're glad that's all done.

Except I'd still advise a transmission temp gauge. The transmission cooler you have was fitted by Ford, and is up to the task, but only if air goes through it. And unfortunately, Winnebago really skimped on making air go through it. So a temp gauge is an easy fit in the pressure test port on the transmission, and in one of the hidden precut holes in your dashboard. Aside from high summer temps, the transmission can get hot on the road, and then when you are parking,no air at all goes through the cooler, and eventually hot fluid comes through the front seal into the bellhousing and onto the ground. I believe you can only let this happen a few times before the seal doesn't recover by itself, and then it's a transmission out job to replace the seal.

Apart from this, you've replaced a lot, so you should be good to go for a while.

Michael

semcha · 10-11-2019, 07:10 PM

I am glad it is done! I found the post about the pressure test port on the forum. I will get the one subford recommended. What is considered normal range for the temperature?

Thanks!

Sean

mpaton · 10-12-2019, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semcha

I am glad it is done! I found the post about the pressure test port on the forum. I will get the one subford recommended. What is considered normal range for the temperature?

Thanks!

Sean

For the definitive word on this, we should do a search for an opinion by Mark Kovalsky. He is a retired Ford transmission engineer, and contributes to these forums, as well as to those about Ford Trucks. here's his guide to changing the fluid in an E4OD.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...-transmission/

I'lll confess that my own, measured at the test port, at 65mph in 100F outside temps with the converter locked was 215F. That mak have been OK, but I didn't think it had much reserve if I had had to slow down and climb hills with no airflow through the cooler.

After my air management inside the front cap, it came down to 165F most of the time. I might consider this as too cool, except that the fluid will have been inside the radiator side tank at 200F, so that should take care of condensation. I hope.

subford · 10-12-2019, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semcha

I am glad it is done! I found the post about the pressure test port on the forum. I will get the one subford recommended. What is considered normal range for the temperature?

Thanks!

Sean

The thread my post was in I think he was referring too.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/trans...ge-133058.html
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