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Old 08-25-2012, 03:17 PM   #15
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That diode inside the starter Solenoid is a damper diode. It grounds any high voltage spike that may be generated as the magnetic field collapses when the power is turn off to the coil. This way no high voltage spike will go on wire 32. They never used a diode on the “I” post. The “I” post when used uses the same big round washer to connect to the battery post that the starter cable to the starter uses.

I know he has a solenoid mounted in the dog house but do not know if he has one mounted on the starter. But he should not have an "I" post on the solenoid and if does it should not be connected to anything.


In the mid 80's 460 carb engine used a starter solenoid with an “I” to bypass the oil switch for the fuel pump. Older truck & cars used the “I” to bypass the Ignition resister wire to give higher voltage to the Ignition Coil while cranking.
The “I” post has not been used on FI 460 engines. Some did use the Ignition switch to by pass the coil power resistance wire while cranking but did not use an “I” post on the starter relay.


His Solenoid should look like this:



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Old 08-26-2012, 08:52 AM   #16
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First off thanks Sub and Outboard for your ideas and expertise in helping me with my problem. I spent yesterday trying to narrow down the possibilities.

Lets first start with the Ignition Switch and the black connector that hooks to the ignition switch. (Ignition tumbler and switch have been checked and are not the culprit.) Refering to the diagram above (149-2) I unplugged the switch in the off position and checked the power at the connector with the following results:

#37 (Y) both .are hot which makes sense because they are connected to the battery.

#687 (GY/Y) is not hot. It has a black wire that is spliced in from the back. I have not traced but think it may have to do with the trailer lights or other lights. Also, only one of the A2 plugs for the #687 wires is used.

#41 (BK/LB) This wire is a solid purple wire not BK/LB. Also, the diagram says that slot is for (Diesel Only) mine is gas. I tested this wire and it has power but low voltage because my probe lit up just a little bit. Did not have a chance to track where this wire went. Any ideas why this is connected?
what it is for?

#297 (BK/LG) This wire is not hot.

#262 (BR/PK) This wire is hot and should only be hot in start position. I can't find wire #262 in the diagrams Sub provided. I think this could be a source of the problem. Do you have a diagram showing #262?

#16 (R/LG) This wire is hot and seems to be a source of the problem.

#977 (P/W) I just realized I did not check this wire. However it also should only be hot in the start position and is associated with a diesel.

Observations: The alternators black power wire originates from a component that looks like a small inverter. Another balck wire from that same component joins up with the two wires coming from the wire clip in the alternator. I am unsure where these wires go.

The vehicle was running when my friend tried to jump the generator. Is this component the link or switch between the alternator charging the battery and house battery as well as switching between the alternator charging the batteries and the generator? Somehow jumping the generator while the coach was running caused a voltage spike?, fried a switch closed?, or something. This has never happened before and did not start by simply starting the vehicle one day.

#262 and #16 are apart of the start/run of the ignition system. If #262 is a part of the start then a faulty solenoid could be the culprit. Another thought is possibly the voltage regulator fused shut in the closed position. Do you have info on how to test these components?

Once again thanks for all the help.
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:02 AM   #17
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You did not say if you have a solenoid mounted on top of the starter or not.
Not important in your case but just wanted to know for what was posted above.

I will get back to your questions in a little while after I look at some drawings.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zbadboy69 View Post
#262 (BR/PK) This wire is hot and should only be hot in start position. I can't find wire #262 in the diagrams Sub provided. I think this could be a source of the problem. Do you have a diagram showing #262?
Wire #262 is a bypass wire that runs from I2 on the Ignition switch to wire #16 at a splice. See diagram below. It bypasses the resistance part of wire #16 so the Ignition Coil has full voltage while cranking in the start position. The voltage you read on wire #262 is back feeding from wire #16. Wire colors may be different from your wiring. But here is a wiring diagram of how the Ignitions should be wired:








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Old 08-26-2012, 10:12 AM   #19
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Starter Solenoid is mounted externally on the right (Drivers) side of the engine compartment below the Voltage Regulator. #262 is next to #16 on the ignition switch connector. How do you check to see if 262 is feeding 16?
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:30 AM   #20
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These may help also:






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Old 08-26-2012, 10:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zbadboy69 View Post
#262 is next to #16 on the ignition switch connector. How do you check to see if 262 is feeding 16?
You just ohm it out.
If you have near zero ohms from I2 to the say the ignition coil then I would say it is bypasses OK.
Note if you have power on a wire do not use the ohm scale of your meter.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:41 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zbadboy69 View Post
Starter Solenoid is mounted externally on the right (Drivers) side of the engine compartment below the Voltage Regulator.
Yes I know you have a starter relay at that point but do you also have a starter solenoid mounted on top of the starter?

In other words does the starter look like this:


Or like this:


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Old 08-26-2012, 11:06 AM   #23
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Bill the RV is parked 3 miles from my house with no internet so I bounce back and forth. I will check the starter and respond back. Thanks.
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:15 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by zbadboy69 View Post
Bill the RV is parked 3 miles from my house with no internet so I bounce back and forth. I will check the starter and respond back. Thanks.
No hurry, I just was wondering what type of starting system you have.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:52 PM   #25
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The starter I have is the one in the first picture. I did not have my ohm meter so I did not check the resitence for wire #262. However I did check where I had power. I have power to #16 at the switch and the Ignition Coil. I don't have power at the distributor. The wire that is hot at the ignition coil is yellow with a blue stripe not red with a light green stripe. Not sure why.

Banged on the voltage regulator in case it was stuck closed. No joy.

Frustration is setting in.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:59 PM   #26
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Also where is the power distribution box located?

Thanks
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:25 PM   #27
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Also where is the power distribution box located?

Thanks
You do not have one for the chassis.
If you have one it is from the MH builder and it would be for inside lights and other home devices.

I think the 1994 F53 was the first one to have one. But it could have been the 1993 F53. I know yours does not have a fuse/relay box in front of the radiator like the newer F53 MH do.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:38 AM   #28
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Performed the following tests yesterday:

Disconnected wire harness at the ignition switch.

Terminal locations Batt, Batt, I2, I1, and P2 have power.
Still do not understand what P2 powers because in the diagram it is for Diesel Only......it is a purple wire.

Tested resistence between I2 (#262 wire) and the ignition coil and it
read 0. Of note is the wire coming out of the coil is Yellow with Blue stripe not R/LG like the #16 wire. Did not check resistence on the #16 wire because I was unsure where to check it at.

Checked power on wire #16 at the distributor and there was nothing.

Disconnected the alternator, started the coach off the battery, and then tried to turn it off, RV continued to run. Reason for test is to ensure current was not back feeding through the alt.

Disconnected voltage regulator. Power at A and I but nothing at F and S.

How do I test for continuity between A, F, S, I terminals?

When I connected the battery, the Instument cluster lights up (16 wire feeds the cluster). When I disconnected the Alternator or the voltage regulator the lights are still on. I am trying to eliminate power sources for wire 16.

Also, what does the purple wire feed off terminal P2 (Diesel Only)? There is voltage there but it lights the probe only slightly.

I need to walk through the wire diagrams I currently have and determine which ones I am missing. I need to be able to follow this wire throughout the schematic.

Finally, I want to re-emphasize this problem happened immediately after trying to jump the generator off of another vehicle while the RV was running. I am unsure whether I turned off the RV at the same time the jumper cables were being removed or possibly while it was still connected to the other vehicle. This has never happened before and was a result of this hair brained idea of jumping the generator. This is not some rogue electrical gremlin that decided to surface.......highly unlikely anyway.
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