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Old 06-22-2021, 02:25 PM   #1
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1994 Bounder f53 A/C evaporator access questions

1994 bounder ford f53 chassis AC Evaporator coil access
I'm wondering if there is a decent way to access the area where the evaporator coil is to see if it's dirty or not on my ford f53 chassis. turns on gets cold but eventually will stop engaging the clutch. even with it off and in on position ignition. I know about spacer issues and access to clutch assembly on my bounder is horrible. going to try shorting out low side pressure switch too when starts acting up. normally when hot out and will act up sooner when parked. I'd like to address everything else before I go for the spacers. I've even tried getting the unit to act up with engine on, then turn off and then to on position to see if clutch can be engaged with ac button on dash and will not. after awhile after having it off it will kick on again. checked for pressure all good holding vacuum too.

Right now I'm leaning towards:

1) Low side pressure switch
2) spacers in clutch assembly
3) clogged or dirty evaporator
4) temp sensor for freezing up evaporator and ac clutch relay. Just need to find out where those are!

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
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Old 06-22-2021, 04:41 PM   #2
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Your HVAC is manufactured by Denso. Access is through the carpeted panel in front of the passengers seat. Have fun finding the 4 screws in the carpet that hold the panel on.
You will need to release the refrigerant charge, remove the 2 AC hoses in the front of the firewall, then remove the lower half of the housing to get to the inlet side of the evaporator.

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460/528 Stroker Engine
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Old 06-22-2021, 11:42 PM   #3
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If you can get to the air outlet side of the Evaporator I would try washing it out with water or one of these
before disconnecting the lines.
When is the last time the refrigerant charge was checked?
1999 35 ft. Dolphin 5350, F53, Banks System, 5 Stars Tune, Air Lift Air Bags, Koni Shocks, Blue OX TruCenter, TigerTrak track bars F&R, Roadmaster 1-3/4" rear auxiliary sway bar, 2004 F450 Lariat Pickup 6.0 Diesel Crew Cab DRW, 4X4, GVWR 15,000, Front GAWR 6,000, Rear GAWR 11,000, GCWR 26,000,1994 36ft Avion 5er, GVWR 13,700, 2,740 Pin Weight.
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Old 06-25-2021, 01:21 PM   #4
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Yes I had it checked last year and it was actually overcharged blows out really cold air but in hot days will just cycle off and blow outside air only can hear compressor cycle off and when I try to just press button on ac will not hear it engage. if I have it off for awhile on road eventually it will start again and work but for shorter and shorter amounts of time. Why I think we may have a low pressure sensor or clogged evaporator fins. icing up and causing issue not the spacer issue that normally is most likely culprit in the compressor clutch with units older in age.
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Old 06-25-2021, 01:30 PM   #5
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Sounds like the condenser is blocked. Especially if overcharged.

Often the rad, condenser, oil cooler etc is sandwiched together and dust, lint etc can form a mat between the coils blocking the airflow. To clean you may need to separate them and hose it down. A good coil cleaner will help.
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Old 06-25-2021, 02:28 PM   #6
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The symptoms you are describing are typical of an excessive air gap on the compressor clutch. If you can identify the compressor manufacturer and model number (I bet it’s a Denso 10p20, but that’s just a wild uniformed guess) you can lookup the specification and measure with a set of feeler gauges. If out of spec, you can purchase a shim kit to get back within spec. Disassembling the clutch requires a puller tool, but does not require recovering the refrigerant.
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bounder, f53

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