1994 Ford F53 -460 - No Spark, No Fuel, No Start = Bad ECM???

[Mr. Smiles]

Dear IRV2 Forum Friends,

I have a 1994 Fleetwood Bounder - 34J - Motorhome, with a Ford 460 V-8 - F53 Chassis.
I have never had any issues with my Motorhome, until a few months ago.

I always start my Motorhome on the 1st Sunday of the Month. Let it run for 30 to 45 minutes... Run it through the gears, use the Dash A/C and Heat... make sure everything is operating correclty.

A few months ago, it would not start. I determined it was the Starter. So, I hired a local RV Repair service to install a New Starter, he agreed that it needed a New Starter.

But then it would not start... He thought it was because the battery was weak, even after charging it, So I replaced the Battery...

Then it would not start at all ... It would not even Crank over- No Starter Turning over...
So I hired a NEW RV Mechanic... He fixed the mis-wiring on the new Starter......Now it cranks... but, still it will not start.... After 1 1/2 hours of this new Mechanic testing every single one of the fuses, circuits and relays.. both outside under the hood and inside under the dash and under the Dash Display, we have still have the Starter Cranking over good,
HOWEVER, there is:
No Fuel
AND
No Dash HVAC Blower

(He put power to the HVAC line and the blower started working, so that ruled out a bad blower motor or switch and the A/C switch lit up. But, just through the ignition, the Blower is not working, so the power issues has to be connected to the No Fuel/No Spark/No Start, correct?)

The Dash lights work, Turn Signals work, Flashers work and the engine starter DEFINITELY CRANKS OVER and Engages with the Fly wheel ... but, will NOT start.

He feels it is the ECM - Engine Control Module.
I was told to order this part, install it and it should fix these issues: 1994 Ford F-Series 7.5L - F2TF-12A650-JA - Engine Computer ECM PCM ECU Programmed & Flashed - EFI-SD36E

What are your thoughts?

Can I please get some advice on this.

Additionally, does anyone know Where The Location of this ECM will be located on my coach?

This new mechanic could not find it... and the prior RV Mechanic is not in Florida for the Summer.
I am in Southwest, Florida and would really appreciate any assistance you can offer.

I Sincerely Thank you,

Mr. Smiles

[MTranch]

Wow, sounds like you're having a tough time. I don't know what kind of critters you have down there. But we occasionally have troubles with mice, cottontail rabbits or even packrats climbing up on the engine and chewing off electrical wires. That could certainly cause your problems. Look for any rodent nests or other things that might be chewed on.
I think that engine still has a distributer and a coil. I would check and see if you have 12 volts to the coil with the key on. The fuel pump should also run for a couple seconds when you turn the key on. If you can trace the wires from the top of the fuel tank you might be able to check them in a couple spots if you have someone turn the key on for you.

Good luck getting it running.

[Skip426]

Multiple power paths through the ignition switch and possibly an ignition relay in the circuit .

Until the ECM is found and the wiring tested for power , in , and out to the fuel pump and coil . Looking for a replacement is premature .

[SeaBreazer]

It has been since I worked on the Ford motors. But if I remember correctly the 90s ford's had a distributer module on the side of the distributer it is either grey which is oem Ford or black aftermarket Standard auto parts. This controls the signal to the ignition module mounted on the fenderwell or fire wall. It is held on by two small screws. If I remember correctly this is what controlled ignition and fuel.
A test I remember from way back when was the tap test. Take a screw driver and tap the control module on the firewall and try to start. These used to get stress cracks in the solder joints and tapping the control box would either let the motor start if not firing.

I personally would change the module on the distributer. That was a common part to fail in the 90s when I had my shop.

[sibe]

they have a module for spark on the firewall.. not sure where on that model.. if no spark, no fuel but you should hear fuel pump whine if you stage the key on a few times.. you can test the fuel line schrader valve if pressure..

Seems like you need a good tech,, these trucks are not rocket science. there are power sources that send power to the ECM relay and also a fuel relay with a safety switch....

The ignition switch can be loosing power .. etc

I had a bad ECM in my 1994 460.. It would start but not rev and stall... They had capacitor issues that lost the 5 v reference to run the sensors but it had spark and fuel, just could not manage it..

If you need wiring diagrams i should have access to them or atleast some direction.. just ask if you need or want to try it on your own..


I also had access to a break out box, that is a wiring contraption that goes between the chassis comptuer harness and ECM,, you can test every circuit and comptuer wire ...

[donr103]

Walk in to auto parts store.. and get Ford obd1 code reader.. make sure it is digital.. around 30.00 and it will tell you if ecm is bad.. New young mechanics do not usually have this.. then you take it to them.. and let them try.. or read the instructions that come with it.. and give that a try.. now there are all kinds of ways to jump different pins on ecm diagnostics cable.. but I find Ford code reader is better for me.. and it offers better testing and results.. that is what I would do..
Good luck and keep us posted oh yes.. in above post.. yes .. ecm may just need New caps. . and you can mail it to repair shop.. and have it fixed.. or hit you tube on Ford ecm bad caps.. and do yourself for 5.00

[GypsyR]

I would the ECM very low on the list of issues. "Parts swapper" types always have a terrible time with wiring. You need someone to trace the power (and grounds) all the way from the battery through the fuses, the ignition switch, dash wiring, and etc. My money is that something has come loose somewhere. Mention of rodents has been made already. THose little beasts like to nibble on wires more than chew all the way through. Like they will chew on the side of wire until they hit copper and then decide they don't like it and move on. So you might look and see what appears to be a perfectly good wire and not see that the back side has a big hollowed out area. I've seen this a few times.
Most often the culprit is simply a bad connection somewhere. The main power supply wiring is where I'd be looking. A big clue is that your heater fan doesn't work. It could be a coincidental other issue but I doubt. The ignition isn't getting, nor is the dash blower? The blower motor has not one thing to do with the ECM by the way. Other than they both are only powered up when the ignition switch is "on". So my first move would to be to look for power out of the ignition switch. If it cranks we know power is going in and going to the discreet "crank" circuit but it may not be going to the system circuit.

[sibe]

I added some basic wring for that model year.. it is gereric for chaissis but may help..

AS mentioned,, go bakc to basics, you had someone mess with starter.. the main power is in that area,, you could have lost a wire that feeds..

or it is a broken main feed.. a test ligh, a helper and some time is the only way, magic wands don't work LOL

[Mark Kovalsky]

Originally Posted by donr103

Walk in to auto parts store.. and get Ford obd1 code reader..

Here is a free way to read the codes. www.troublecodes.net/ford