1996 E350 7.5L Oil Question

[tcg]

My regular oil change place stopped doing oil changes on RVs so I'm just going to do it myself.

It's a 1996 E350 7.5L with 50,000 miles. The last oil change was 2 years ago but that oil only has about 1,200 miles on it.

I believe the last oil change and all oil changes was conventional oil, the receipt doesn't specify synthetic it just says Valvoline 5W20 MaxLife Oil API SN.

The question is... Should I use synthetic or stay with conventional? I'm leaning toward conventional because it's always had conventional.

I'm sure there are many opinions but Google wasn't really helping so I thought I'd ask here.

Thanks

[code2e]

Originally Posted by tcg

My regular oil change place stopped doing oil changes on RVs so I'm just going to do it myself.

It's a 1996 E350 7.5L with 50,000 miles. The last oil change was 2 years ago but that oil only has about 1,200 miles on it.

I believe the last oil change and all oil changes was conventional oil, the receipt doesn't specify synthetic it just says Valvoline 5W20 MaxLife Oil API SN.

The question is... Should I use synthetic or stay with conventional? I'm leaning toward conventional because it's always had conventional.

I'm sure there are many opinions but Google wasn't really helping so I thought I'd ask here.

Thanks

Valvoline 5W20 MaxLife is available as conventional oil, synthetic blend and full synthetic oil. So, the receipt is not much help. Synthetics have many advantages in vehicles used much more than your coach. Since your usage is under 1000 miles a year currently and under 2000 miles a year over it's lifetime, synthetic has no advantages to you. I would recommend staying with the same oil in conventional formula and try annual changes, including filter.

With lower miles, likely shorter trips, your engine will have condensation accumulate. Also, the additives wear out. Annual changes with less expensive oil are your best bet.

To dispose of your oil, save up a couple gallon screw top jugs (milk, water). Many garbage services will pick up used oil in a screw top jug. If not, many auto parts stores accept used oil as well.

If this is a new venture for you, drive on ramps are handier than jack & jack stands. You will need an oil filter wrench. See the parts place when getting your new filter. They can get you one to fit. A drain pan with a built on funnel, as well.

Above all else, NEVER replace the drain plug without tightening it fully. Same for the filter, 3/4 to 1 full turn after gasket contacts surface. No distractions allowed while doing those 2 jobs.

[F4Gary]

Personally, I'd go with a 5w30 synthetic. It's a better oil and it doesn't cost that much more when you do it yourself.
Go buy your oil at Walmart. It is usually cheapest there. Or Costco, even their Kirkland brand is pretty good and cheap.
I usually have a couple of empty windshield washer jugs around plus the empty oil jugs.
You can take your used oil to O'Reilys or Autozone. Old filter too.

[twinboat]

Read the manual or many times the oil cap. That will tell you what to use.

[tcg]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Read the manual or many times the oil cap. That will tell you what to use.

I know which weight to use but the manual says conventional or synthetic is acceptable hence the question.

[tcg]

Originally Posted by code2e

Valvoline 5W20 MaxLife is available as conventional oil, synthetic blend and full synthetic oil. So, the receipt is not much help. Synthetics have many advantages in vehicles used much more than your coach. Since your usage is under 1000 miles a year currently and under 2000 miles a year over it's lifetime, synthetic has no advantages to you. I would recommend staying with the same oil in conventional formula and try annual changes, including filter.

With lower miles, likely shorter trips, your engine will have condensation accumulate. Also, the additives wear out. Annual changes with less expensive oil are your best bet.

To dispose of your oil, save up a couple gallon screw top jugs (milk, water). Many garbage services will pick up used oil in a screw top jug. If not, many auto parts stores accept used oil as well.

If this is a new venture for you, drive on ramps are handier than jack & jack stands. You will need an oil filter wrench. See the parts place when getting your new filter. They can get you one to fit. A drain pan with a built on funnel, as well.

Above all else, NEVER replace the drain plug without tightening it fully. Same for the filter, 3/4 to 1 full turn after gasket contacts surface. No distractions allowed while doing those 2 jobs.

Thank you.

It's been a while since I changed my own oil but I have all the tools ramps and containers. I'm also fortunate that a local shop lets me dump used oil in their tank.

I'm also doing the generator at the same time.

I have to dig out my creeper to, I hope I remember where I put it.

Just as I'm tightening everything I guarantee my neighbor will come over and ask "whatchya doin'?"

Thanks for the tips.

[GypsyR]

In my collection of older "flat tappet" Ford engines I like to use either a conventional 10w-30 oil, a synthetic blend 10w-30 (Motorcraft brand), or Mobil1 15W-50 if full synthetic. Of all the Mobil oils on the shelf (except FS-X2 5W-50) you'll see on the shelf, NONE of the others had the proper additives in them for older engines like the 7.5. I added FS-X2 in parentheses because though it's an even higher quality oil I've yet to see it on any shelf. You have to order it usually. And it's NOT cheap. The 15W-50 you can find at Wal-Mart and for some reason they usually have the best price on it too.

I focus on Mobil 1 for a synthetic mostly because Mobil 1 lists their specifications on their website where anyone can look them up. Where others seem almost secretive. That said, for other purposes in late model cars like what is mostly out on the road, I don't care and use whatever brand with the proper weight.

All that said, our old 460's are pretty tolerant and people "get away with" using all sorts of oil in them. I'm just talking about what I personally consider optimal. And yes, I am just some random guy on the internet. There's plenty more opinions out there.

[tcg]

Okay, I went to the auto parts store this morning, the only 5W-20 (what the manual calls for) conventional oil was Fram so I got 6 quarts.

I bought the best filter they had which was a K&N, pretty pricey but I figure I may just change the oil next spring and not touch the filter. I figure less then 1,500 miles this year because we've been sticking close to home due to sick pets.

I also couldn't find my oil drain pan so I bought a really nice 16 quart sealed pan that will transport the used oil neatly.

Everything went really easy, the K&N filter has a nice nut on it making it easy to tighten or loosen.

The generator was even easier because it has a petcock valve on the side, didn't even have to get under it. Also used a K&N filter, should be able to just change the oil next time and not fool with the filter.

If I get really bored I'm going to do my 2 vehicles and save some money.


Thanks for the oil suggestions and tips.

[code2e]

Originally Posted by tcg

Okay, I went to the auto parts store this morning, the only 5W-20 (what the manual calls for) conventional oil was Fram so I got 6 quarts.

I bought the best filter they had which was a K&N, pretty pricey but I figure I may just change the oil next spring and not touch the filter. I figure less then 1,500 miles this year because we've been sticking close to home due to sick pets.

I also couldn't find my oil drain pan so I bought a really nice 16 quart sealed pan that will transport the used oil neatly.

Everything went really easy, the K&N filter has a nice nut on it making it easy to tighten or loosen.

The generator was even easier because it has a petcock valve on the side, didn't even have to get under it. Also used a K&N filter, should be able to just change the oil next time and not fool with the filter.

If I get really bored I'm going to do my 2 vehicles and save some money.


Thanks for the oil suggestions and tips.

Congradulations! Glad job went so well for you. You sparked my interest by using Fram Oil. I had seen it but paid no attention till now. Wondered who made it for Fram, knowing they don't make oil. Turns out it's Amelie Oil out of Florida. In business since 1903 and actually produced the first multigrade oil in 1953. Good oil.

I like K&N filters also. As you noted, the nut is handy.

Sorry for sick pets. Been there. They are just like children.

[GypsyR]

After seeing a third K&N oil filter cracked and leaking at the bottom where the "nut" is I lost all interest in using them. That I can buy a 100% genuine Ford Motorcraft FL1A at any Wal Mart for like six dollars helped that decision.

[bigb56]

Originally Posted by GypsyR

After seeing a third K&N oil filter cracked and leaking at the bottom where the "nut" is I lost all interest in using them. That I can buy a 100% genuine Ford Motorcraft FL1A at any Wal Mart for like six dollars helped that decision.

I use the FL1A on any vehicle it will fit, it happens to fit my Jeep 4.0. The Motorcraft filters are the best spin ons you can get. I saw an independent study on oil filters, the Motorcraft filters use an all metal bypass located at the top of the filter which prevents debris from entering the engine when the bypass opens (all oil filter bypass valves open when the oil is cold at startup) whereas other manufacturers place the bypass at the bottom, and the square inches of filter media are more than other spin ons of the same size.

[F4Gary]

Originally Posted by bigb56

I use the FL1A on any vehicle it will fit, it happens to fit my Jeep 4.0. The Motorcraft filters are the best spin ons you can get. I saw an independent study on oil filters, the Motorcraft filters use an all metal bypass located at the top of the filter which prevents debris from entering the engine when the bypass opens (all oil filter bypass valves open when the oil is cold at startup) whereas other manufacturers place the bypass at the bottom, and the square inches of filter media are more than other spin ons of the same size.

Link?

[bigb56]

Originally Posted by F4Gary

Link?

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

It's a long document but you can search it using the F3 key.

[House Husband]

I have run Walmart Super Tech, full synthetic, 10W/30 for the last 140,000 miles in my 1995 7.5. Engine is still in excellent condition. I'm a believer in synthetic oil.

Richard