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Old 09-26-2019, 11:56 AM   #57
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Do you still have another problem? Why did the connector burn? Corroded, resistive lugs maybe? Did you find the place the sense wire was broken? Was it fatigued, abraded, or burned? When you get it all fixed, check the connector and wire once in a while for evidence of heat.

I personally would like failure causes explained or would worry about re-occurrence due to not fixing the underlying problem.

Im glad there is at least one helpful, thorough, smart guy in here with obviously extensive experience, attention to detail, and who posted the wiring diagrams, etc!
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Old 09-26-2019, 02:37 PM   #58
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IMO Ford has had wiring issues,,, the f53 and or c class, share some same stuff to a point..

I have had the sensor go bad inside the harness about 30 inches back, it just broke inside,

I have had VSS signal loss over the rear axle at connector, had it where harness ties back into the main harnerss on left side about 2 foot up, wires just broke,,, I had that same ciruit fail where the ABS branch spliced in on the way to dash...

this altenator plug etc, seems to almost be a wear item and can be replaced with units from dorman etc so it is common,, the cause ,, can be specific or age related, .. etc etc..

It is always good to find a casue...
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Old 09-26-2019, 08:33 PM   #59
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As far as the plug goes, no, I don’t know why it failed. It can’t be carrying much of a current load. I can tell you that it has been replaced before, with a plug and a very small wire spliced into the OEM wire out of the alternator plug. So this is not the first failure. At any rate, I spent way more money than it should cost(!) to get the Ford OEM plug which comes with a 14 gauge wire on it. Later I saw that I could have purchased for much less elsewhere. Because the replacement is heavy gauge, a new plug, and I made the splice not someone else who cares less, I don’t think it will be the failure point again. The plug spade it connects to in the alternator looks good, no problem there. Possibly whoever spliced in the plug I replaced installed a worn, used plug. I don’t know.

As to the battery voltage sensor wire failure, I haven’t traced it down yet, as I mentioned earlier, I have it temporarily connected to the B+ on the alternator and it is working well for a temporary work around.
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Old 09-27-2019, 07:56 PM   #60
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Today, Autozone took back the alternator, even though I had installed it, and gave me full credit. That is not their normal policy but they did do it for me and I do want to give them a plug for treating me better than I deserve. I am indeed grateful.
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Old 12-26-2019, 04:07 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by MarvinG View Post
Today, Autozone took back the alternator, even though I had installed it, and gave me full credit. That is not their normal policy but they did do it for me and I do want to give them a plug for treating me better than I deserve. I am indeed grateful.
I want to thank you for posting this process. I just replaced my starter and next day i noticed dash voltage was battery voltage only. However i noticed too late and had to be jumped 3x to get back the final 1mi to get her home. Tomorrow I'll be paying close attention to the details here.
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:44 AM   #62
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I took the rig into Chattanooga a couple weeks ago and lo and behold the alternator completely failed again. I got home by holding the button connecting the coach batteries to the chassis battery. Put the battery on charge and then let it sit until today. Went out all prepared to do deep troubleshooting again. The problem was easy to diagnose. The belt was shredded! Found no locked up pulleys, my assumption is the old belt was not in good shape, although I had inspected it during the previous alternator problems. I’ve run the replacement belt about 20 minutes and so far so good.
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Old 01-01-2020, 08:58 AM   #63
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I took the rig into Chattanooga a couple weeks ago and lo and behold the alternator completely failed again. I got home by holding the button connecting the coach batteries to the chassis battery. Put the battery on charge and then let it sit until today. Went out all prepared to do deep troubleshooting again. The problem was easy to diagnose. The belt was shredded! Found no locked up pulleys, my assumption is the old belt was not in good shape, although I had inspected it during the previous alternator problems. I’ve run the replacement belt about 20 minutes and so far so good.
Watch the belt over the next few trip, IMO keep a spare with you...

After my alternator change,, We had eaten a couple belts,, After checking stuff, the alternator was slightly off center, No clue why but I had to add a washer maybe 1/16" thick to move it out.. I also went with a 1/2" longer belt to get more surface wrap on the pulley.
Been over 8000 miles and not a squeal or issue..

Not saying this is your issue but if alignment is an issue one side of the belt will start to wear and it is easy to spot.

good luck,, Hope the New Year is good to you..2020
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Old 01-02-2020, 08:45 AM   #64
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Good advice, and I am doing that precisely. I think the alignment is good, but I will carefully watch and already have a spare belt and tools in case. In thinking back I think the old belt looked great on the exterior but I think it was worn down in the splines to the point the pulley cut into the threads. I also am thinking about if the pulley on the alternator itself is worn, since ultimately this alternator repair was a wiring issue and not the alternator. The alternator on the rig is the old one, the one that has been on since before I purchased the rig.
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Old 01-02-2020, 09:18 PM   #65
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On our Bounders you can drive all day long without an alternator by just starting the generator. Did that once when I had belt failure. No need to hold the E Start button all day.

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Old 01-03-2020, 09:13 AM   #66
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Not on mine, but. . . . I had to add a device to let the alternator charge the coach batteries. If mine, as built from the factory, should allow the generator or shore power to charge the chassis battery, that part is broken as well. What is the best way to make that happen now?
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Old 01-03-2020, 11:06 AM   #67
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Turn the key on and off and listen for a solenoid to clunk. If that solenoid has 2 large battery cables, each from the house and chassis battery, that's the solenoid that does the charging.

Even though it clunks, it may not connect internally. That's how many fail.
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Not on mine, but. . . . I had to add a device to let the alternator charge the coach batteries. If mine, as built from the factory, should allow the generator or shore power to charge the chassis battery, that part is broken as well. What is the best way to make that happen now?
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Old 01-04-2020, 09:57 AM   #68
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Not on mine, but. . . . I had to add a device to let the alternator charge the coach batteries. If mine, as built from the factory, should allow the generator or shore power to charge the chassis battery, that part is broken as well. What is the best way to make that happen now?
I'll reiterate, your coach as built by Fleetwood will charge all batteries from all sources. Bounders have been that way since mid 1995, with the introduction of CB 115 rev. C circuit board in your Battery Control Center (BCC). If you added a device, you patched your charging system instead of restoring it to its original state. The most common failure is the contacts in the isolator relay. Follow the wiring print on the inside of the BCC cover to determine which relay is the isolator relay. If the isolator relay TESTS good, then you need to test the wires and circuits that control the isolator relay. The circuit board will send a signal to the isolator relay, to close, any time either battery bank reaches 13.3 volts and will stop that signal when either battery bank drops to 12.8 volts. Thus keeping the chassis battery from discharging below static charge.

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Old 01-04-2020, 10:18 AM   #69
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MarvinG, follow what 1ciderdog said.

If you checked the alternator output before changing it and it was in the 11 V range then the alternator was not charging.

A word to the wise should be sufficient. Don't try to save to much $$$$$ buying cheap. With something like an alternator or starter I'd either go back to the manufacturer dealer or to a NAPA store and buy their best. Most of the better ones will have a decent warranty as well.

After 35 years Teaching HS automotive and working on all kinds of vehicles I buy few parts from the lower end parts houses. Especially when it comes to things that have to work at least 98% of the time or I don't move. It's just not worth my time to install a less than quality part.
Roger that. NAPA is not only top of the line, IMO, you can exchange/replace at NAPA stores throughout the country, on the rare occasions you get a defect.
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