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Old 10-04-2024, 11:04 AM   #1
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1996 f53 fuel problem

I have a 1996 28T bounder with the ford f53 platform and as I was parking it at home the engine died and would not start back up . I listened at the gas tank and could not here the pump runing so Now the fun starts. I checked all the fuses and relays all good. so I thought the pump just died , ordered new and wait for it to come . New pump came so droped the tank and the pump they sent was not correct one. Sent back for refund. Got new tank from local supplier full price now $500 installed it in the tank and no luck.Well here is wher I start the chasing of 12 volts the pink and black wire is the power lead at the pump harness and after trying several things I have only 5.5 volts when you turn the key on for the 5 seconds. I thought the relay was bad , but all the replays are the same part number so I switched one and no luck.
I have had a rv repair guy come to house and he spent 5 hrs and could not find the problem. I need to find the wireing diagram so I can actually trace the pink and black wire front to back. We thought it could be the inertia switch but the red button was not triped and juping the wires did not work
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Old 10-04-2024, 02:23 PM   #2
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This is from the Ford shop manual.
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Old 10-04-2024, 09:44 PM   #3
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I got lucky on my '93 while troubleshooting fuel issues and happened to notice some green stuff in the backside of the socket the fuel pump relay plugs into. Upon investigating I found that where two wires connect to the back of the pins was corroded. I ended up clipping the entire socket off and wiring in a replacement.
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Old 10-05-2024, 09:57 AM   #4
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I'm still in the dark about why I only have 5 volts at the relay for the pump and at the pink black wire at the connection to the pump. Today's test will be to remove the fuel filter and run a jumper from battery + to the pink black wire at the pump to get fuel to flow to there. Just a little. I have a new filter that I will install after I see fuel . Next test will be to remove the pump relay and ad a jumper from 30 to 87 pins and test for 12 volts at pump
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Old 10-05-2024, 01:05 PM   #5
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Are you positive you have a good ground? If you haven’t, the next thing I would do would be to run a self tapping screw into the chassis frame, jumper the pump ground to it, and then measure voltage. I’d leave the new ground in place regardless of whether grounding is the problem.
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Old 10-05-2024, 08:47 PM   #6
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Are you positive you have a good ground? If you haven’t, the next thing I would do would be to run a self tapping screw into the chassis frame, jumper the pump ground to it, and then measure voltage. I’d leave the new ground in place regardless of whether grounding is the problem.
So far it has been ground to the pump relay pin 85 blue orange wire , this has gotten the 12 volts to the pink black wire at the pump . I need to know where that wire goes to make this a real fix . The engine still did not start
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Old 10-07-2024, 01:06 PM   #7
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The lightblue/orange wire? According to the diagram in post #2 it goes to the computer.
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Old 10-07-2024, 07:49 PM   #8
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Speculating here: if the computer is not telling the pump to pump, and if it didn’t start when the pump did pump (and assuming the pump, pumped fuel at pressure as it should being new) would the computer potentially also not be doing other things needed to make the engine run?
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Old 10-08-2024, 09:35 AM   #9
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A good thought. But first I would consider that the computer is fine and dandy, just for some reason it is not receiving the information that tells it that you want to turn the fuel pump on. A lot of people replace computers only to later find it was the ignition switch, a fuse, or something completely else and now they have a spare computer.
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Old 10-08-2024, 10:10 AM   #10
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Thanks for the answers and sugestions , I'm back in the testing mode to find out were my problem is. I'm not wanting to just change parts and throw money at this , I already have a spare fuel pump. I can't find a shop that will take this and the moble RV repair guy does not know what the problem is.
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Old 10-08-2024, 07:37 PM   #11
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A good thought. But first I would consider that the computer is fine and dandy, just for some reason it is not receiving the information that tells it that you want to turn the fuel pump on. A lot of people replace computers only to later find it was the ignition switch, a fuse, or something completely else and now they have a spare computer.
I agree , now I have a question with having an obd1 connection should I look for codes and delete them ? I have the adapter for obd1 to obd II so I hope it works
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Old 10-08-2024, 08:15 PM   #12
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Exactly!

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A good thought. But first I would consider that the computer is fine and dandy, just for some reason it is not receiving the information that tells it that you want to turn the fuel pump on. A lot of people replace computers only to later find it was the ignition switch, a fuse, or something completely else and now they have a spare computer.
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Old 10-09-2024, 12:47 PM   #13
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Checking for codes is like step one of any shop diagnosing anything these days. With your coach being a '96 you should also be able to look at computer "data" if the scanner supports doing so. Such as if the computer is receiving a crank position signal, tach signal, etc and if it is in fact commanding the fuel pump to turn on. You may not be able to see nearly as much such info as you can on later models but there are things to see that might help.
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Old 10-10-2024, 10:25 AM   #14
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Checking for codes is like step one of any shop diagnosing anything these days. With your coach being a '96 you should also be able to look at computer "data" if the scanner supports doing so. Such as if the computer is receiving a crank position signal, tach signal, etc and if it is in fact commanding the fuel pump to turn on. You may not be able to see nearly as much such info as you can on later models but there are things to see that might help.
I hope the setup that I have will work , I have a obd2 scaner with an adapter cable for the obd1 port . I also have a list of things to check now f13,f14,f22 ,f04 , PCM diode , and pcm relay , so hoping today to get this back running
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