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Avidmc5 · 04-11-2021, 01:21 PM

My partner recently changed out the two solenoids and the three thermal fuses used for chassis/coach power and battery charging. Unfortunately not getting good enough pics so as to reconnect everything with 100% confidence maybe the reason why we are only seeing 8.1v coming off the the +terminal of the lower solenoid (#3?). I've attached a pic of how everything is connected presently. You will notice the layout looks a bit odd. It's because we moved everything to the left and rotated it 90° for better access.

Avidmc5 · 04-11-2021, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avidmc5

My partner recently changed out the two solenoids and the three thermal fuses used for chassis/coach power and battery charging. Unfortunately not getting good enough pics so as to reconnect everything with 100% confidence maybe the reason why we are only seeing 8.1v coming off the the +terminal of the lower solenoid (#3?). I've attached a pic of how everything is connected presently. You will notice the layout looks a bit odd. It's because we moved everything to the left and rotated it 90° for better access.

In addition, the solenoid replacing the one on top, now on the left did not have a cap with the two in-line fuse recepticals so we wired those in separately. Again we are only seeing 8.1v going to the chassis battery

Upon further inspection one positive lead which seems to be coming from the converter (hard to trace) has 24v. How is that being this is a 12v system that can't be good. ��

HarryStone · 04-11-2021, 05:47 PM

Even tho mine is an 06, my intelitec looks the same. I can get a pic of it for you. You should not see 24 vdc anywhere. I would strongly suggest removing your house battery ground, then check your voltage. It sounds like you have inadvertently connected your batteries in series somehow.

HarryStone · 04-11-2021, 05:49 PM

Also, did you do anything to the house batteries? You may want to check the voltage coming directly from the house batteries.

HarryStone · 04-11-2021, 10:05 PM

Here’s the pic I promised

twinboat · 04-12-2021, 12:00 AM

The black solenoid you installed is wrong.

That should be a latching relay ( solenoid ) and you have a momentary relay ( solenoid ) in its place.

Latching solenoids lock open or closed with a pulse of electric power. What you have needs constant power to stay closed and will burn out in a few hours use.

Get that right and then see what kind of voltages you get.

unkamike · 04-13-2021, 05:14 PM

I too have the Daymon Daybreak. And like you the top solenoid is not clicking when power is applied. Bottom one clicks. I think perhaps the plastic cage needs to be renewed to protect the printed circuit board behind the solenoids. I think too the top solenoid could be no good but for starters I am trying to get the plastic box replaced.
Any ideas where one would go to get a duplicate plastic box?

HarryStone · 04-13-2021, 11:45 PM

Yes. You can purchase the entire Assy. It’s not cheap.

https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/i...-00-00635-000/

Avidmc5 · 04-14-2021, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryStone

Here’s the pic I promised

Mr Stone,
Thanks for your reply and the pic of your rig's system. I have a few questions about it and have attached a copy for reference. I noticed one of the wires is not connected (#1). Is there a reason for this? The thermal fuse looks like there is only one wire connected to it (#2). Can you tell me if the solenoid terminal (#3) has no other wires connected to it other than one positive 4AWG cable and where that cable comes from/goes to?
Again your help in trying to fix this problem is much appreciated!

Avidmc5 · 04-14-2021, 11:40 AM

A debt of gratitude goes out to HarryStone, unkamike and twinboat for helping me with this problem. twinboat pointed out the solenoid we bought was the wrong one. He's absolutely right. The one needed is specific to this system only! After following a link posted by HarryStone to get the price on replacing the entire system found he is also absolutely right, expensive! Hoping I'd get lucky I called RV Parts Express and talked to Rene who provided with excellent customer service, noticed a link in the description (which BTW explains this system in complete detail) of the Intellitc Micro BCC Controller w/Relays at $479.95 (ouch!) that pulled up the just the relay itself! And at $65.50 + tax + $20 (cheapest&#128530

shipping saves me around $400!!

There are two sayings that are a bit at odds however both have merit. "Don't sweat the small stuff" and " It's the little things that count". The efforts made by forum members on iRV2 and others may be seen as "small stuff". That said these "little things" provide undeniable proof that caring and willingness to help others regardless who they may be can make a huge difference.
Guys, the virtual beers are on me!

Link to the relay only
https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/intellitec-battery-disconnect-relay-wfuses-01-00055-000/

HarryStone · 04-15-2021, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avidmc5

Mr Stone,
Thanks for your reply and the pic of your rig's system. I have a few questions about it and have attached a copy for reference. I noticed one of the wires is not connected (#1). Is there a reason for this? The thermal fuse looks like there is only one wire connected to it (#2). Can you tell me if the solenoid terminal (#3) has no other wires connected to it other than one positive 4AWG cable and where that cable comes from/goes to?
Again your help in trying to fix this problem is much appreciated!

Just returned from a trip. Will try to answer your questions tomorrow. But the wire that is disconnected is for the bottom solenoid. It’s disconnected because I have lithium batteries and the bcc was trying to connect the coach and chassis batteries all the time, so I disconnected the wire to stop it.

Avidmc5 · 04-16-2021, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryStone

Just returned from a trip. Will try to answer your questions tomorrow. But the wire that is disconnected is for the bottom solenoid. It’s disconnected because I have lithium batteries and the bcc was trying to connect the coach and chassis batteries all the time, so I disconnected the wire to stop it.

As it is with astrophysics a question answered merely creates another question, or two. I'm in the process of renovating my rig which includes 1Kw in solar that will be charging two 105Ah Lion Energy LiFePo batteries. Your experience says that our respective BCCs are not designed for Li batteries? Not knowing what batteries you have I would imagine they have a built-in BMS. According to Lion Energy their BMS can protect the battery from any type of nefarious voltage. Thanks again and have a great weekend!

HarryStone · 04-16-2021, 06:43 PM

Post #3 should only have 1 wire, and it comes from the drivers side and goes presumably to the coach batteries. Mine has 2 because I added a smart battery combiner. The solenoid it's connected to joins the coach and chassis batteries together for 2 purposes. 1. emergency start, when the chassis battery goes dead, and 2. Allows for charging of the coach battery from the alternator, and allows charging of the chassis battery from the converter. So, the other side of the solenoid goes to the chassis battery.
The #2, circuit breaker, has a bridge from the right terminal to another circuit breaker just to it's right.

HarryStone · 04-16-2021, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avidmc5

As it is with astrophysics a question answered merely creates another question, or two. I'm in the process of renovating my rig which includes 1Kw in solar that will be charging two 105Ah Lion Energy LiFePo batteries. Your experience says that our respective BCCs are not designed for Li batteries? Not knowing what batteries you have I would imagine they have a built-in BMS. According to Lion Energy their BMS can protect the battery from any type of nefarious voltage. Thanks again and have a great weekend!

True. Our BCC isn't designed to deal with Lion batteries, and thus will constantly energize the bottom solenoid, which will eventually burn it out. You will have to use either a smart battery combiner, or a DC to DC charger to avoid killing the alternator, because the Lion batteries will draw 100% of the current the alternator can put out, causing a possible early death of the alternator. And pulling that same wire I did, or pulling fuse 5 on the BCC.