1997 Ford F53 V8 460 Crank No Start

[subford]

Originally Posted by Qstaar17

The green wire lights my test light but the pink wire does not.

Then the inertia switch has been tripped and is an open circuit.
Do not drop the fuel tank as your problem is with the inertia switch.


Push the red button down on the top to reset it.

[GypsyR]

By all means make sure your inertia switch isn't an issue first. Years ago I recall having to replace a couple that have bad connections inside. These caused enough heat that the sides of the plastic switch were discolored and somewhat distorted. So it could be an issue beyond just being tripped. The switch is a heck of a lot easier to work on than the tank.

But as far as the motorcycle jack. I measured the lift height of mine, subtracted about an inch and used the RV's jacks to raise the coach as much as I could by. I just about hit the mark but the lift wasn't really all that much, the rear tires stayed planted pretty well. I'm on the slim side of medium sized and had no problems fitting under mine.

Though my tank sat nicely on my jack I didn't trust it and had a planned escape route. It doesn't do you a lot of good to avoid a falling tank if you half knock your brains out on a frame rail doing it.

[sibe]

I had a pump with an issue,, i could only pull 20-22 gallon and she would die... There was a bracket spotwelded to pick up tube,, it had cracked and would suck air..

I was able to drain tank from the bung in the bottom.. much lighter to drop... I used 2 floor jacks an a board... it was not bad empty..

OH and the poster with the drawings was great.. I have ALLDATA and used it many times...to fix rv and lend a hand here,,, THANKS for good info

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by subford

Then the inertia switch has been tripped and is an open circuit.
Do not drop the fuel tank as your problem is with the inertia switch.


Push the red button down on the top to reset it.

I have not only pushed the button, I have replaced the switch. A couple weeks ago. So there could be an issue with the wire? It was supposed to light up with both the green and pink wires? My RV was hit by another RV while in storage so I focused on the inertia switch at the beginning and the old switch did not pop up the red button every time I smacked it so I replaced it with a new switch and hit the button, no joy. No fuel pressure.

[Qstaar17]

I wonder if I need to replace that connector.

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by subford

Then the inertia switch has been tripped and is an open circuit.
Do not drop the fuel tank as your problem is with the inertia switch.


Push the red button down on the top to reset it.

I been searching on google and I see that the green wire goes to the fuel pump relay and the pink wire goes directly to the fuel pump. With the key on and the button on the switch pressed in power is supposed to be supplied to the pink wire. So green wire has power because the relay is good but nothing from pink wire. Now I’m not sure if I need to try and back probe the pink wire with the switch in place or if I’m supposed to get power to the pink wire when I turn key on even if not connected to the inertia switch. I also seen where the pink wire my only light for 2-3 seconds when turning the key so I will place the TPin in the pink side of the connector to see if it lights. When I go back out. If it does I will search for C219. It’s supposed to be by the transmission somewhere.

[Qstaar17]

I didn’t try to start the rig but if there is an issue with the pink wire, shouldn’t me jumping #6 to ground bypass the inertia switch? I’m also going to see if this causes the fuel pump to kick on, then I know that I don’t have to drop the tank. I will be so happy. So it’s not the switch it’s looking like the problem is with the pink wire as there’s no power to it.

[ransil]

Originally Posted by Qstaar17

I didn’t try to start the rig but if there is an issue with the pink wire, shouldn’t me jumping #6 to ground bypass the inertia switch? I’m also going to see if this causes the fuel pump to kick on, then I know that I don’t have to drop the tank. I will be so happy. So it’s not the switch it’s looking like the problem is with the pink wire as there’s no power to it.

Grounding 6 only activates the relay, if you suspect the inertia switch remove the connector and jumper it.

[subford]

Originally Posted by Qstaar17

I also seen where the pink wire my only light for 2-3 seconds when turning the key

If pin #6 is not grounded power will only be on both wires at the inertia switch for one second if the engine is not cranking or running.
Note that one second is longer then you may think.

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by ransil

Grounding 6 only activates the relay, if you suspect the inertia switch remove the connector and jumper it.

You’re saying cut both wires and merge them together?

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by subford

If pin #6 is not grounded power will only be on both wires at the inertia switch for one second if the engine is not cranking or running.
Note that one second is longer then you may think.

With #6 grounded nothing from the red wire and I bought a new inertia switch and tried to reset, no joy.

[subford]

Originally Posted by Qstaar17

With #6 grounded nothing from the red wire and I bought a new inertia switch and tried to reset, no joy.

What red wire?
Do you mean the pink wire with a black stripe?

Are you using a loading test light (non LED)?

If the loading test light lights up on the dark green wire with a yellow strip going to the Inertia switch and does not light up on the pink wire with a black stripe from the Inertia switch with pin #6 grounded and the key on then you have a bad connector at the Inertia switch.

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by subford

What red wire?
Do you mean the pink wire with a black stripe?

Are you using a loading test light (non LED)?

If the loading test light lights up on the dark green wire with a yellow strip going to the Inertia switch and does not light up on the pink wire with a black stripe from the Inertia switch with pin #6 grounded and the key on then you have a bad connector at the Inertia switch.

Sorry I meant the pink wire with black stripe and that’s exactly what is happening. I ordered a new connector. It has different colors and an extra wire but it should still work as it is the same connector. I’m hoping I will be able to pull the to wires to expose more because it’s really tight and will be hard to splice in. So I will replace the connector. In theory I should be able to join the green and pink wires together and the pump should work if the pump isn’t the problem? I want to say thanks again for your guidance. I will be very happy if I don’t have to drop that gas tank.

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by subford

What red wire?
Do you mean the pink wire with a black stripe?

Are you using a loading test light (non LED)?

If the loading test light lights up on the dark green wire with a yellow strip going to the Inertia switch and does not light up on the pink wire with a black stripe from the Inertia switch with pin #6 grounded and the key on then you have a bad connector at the Inertia switch.

So I cut the green and pink wires from the connector and used wire strippers to expose them. Using a multimeter with #6 of EEC grounded to a good ground and key to on I get 11.80 volts from the green wire and 0 volts from the pink wire. I have a repair manual but it doesn’t tell me the theory of operation for the pink wire. I just know that that wire goes to the fuel pump and 12 volts from the green means the fuel pump relay is good. I’m thinking it’s pointless to install the new connector until I figure out why nothing from the pink wire or do I need to install the connector and hit the reset button? Note I joined the pink and green wire together to see if she would start but no joy.