1997 Ford F53 V8 460 Crank No Start

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by GypsyR

The last few years I've been using PB Blaster. It stinks but seems to have some actual penetrating value. It's paraffin based and mechanics have been using paraffin for such for well over a hundred years. so there's that. I find that if it helps, it does best if left overnight. I've tried about every other penetrant out there and found them useless. PB at least seems to help sometimes.

Thankyou. If I drop the tank I will certainly use this and spray bolts a day before.

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by subford

You might want to ground pin #6 or short pin #2 to pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug (connector). Then turn the key to the run position and then you can trace the power to the pump with a loading ice pick test light.


Note the EEC self-test plug (connector) is also called the Data Link Connector.
















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Wow didn't know the EEC Connector had anything to do with the fuel pump. I know exactly where it is because I bought an OBD1 reader in an attempt to read codes but it was useless. I used a test light to verify that all fuses in the distribution box are good. I will double check relay #2. Now as for checking to see if power is going to the fuel pump via the EEC. Forgive me although I have a multimeter and a test light. I'm unfamiliar with the certain terms. When you say ground pin #6 or short pin #2 to pin #6. Are you saying connect my test light to ground and probe pin 6 or are you saying jump pin2 to pin six. Sorry but this is what I'm looking for but need a bit of clarification. Please tell me where to place my leads or what to do with my test light. When I checked the fuses, I connected the test light to battery negative and probed the fuses with the test light. I assume if my test light lights up when I make contact with pin 6, with the key to on the pump is receiving power?

[subford]

Originally Posted by Qstaar17

When you say ground pin #6 or short pin #2 to pin #6. Are you saying connect my test light to ground and probe pin 6 or are you saying jump pin2 to pin six.

Pin 2 to pin 6.
You can short pin #6 of the self-test plug to any good ground or the NEG post of the battery. No test light doing this short to ground.

Or you can short pin #2 to pin #6 of the self-test plug. Pin #2 should be ground but this ground runs through the Computer and wiring before it gets to a ground point.


Shorting pin 2 to pin 6 on my PU truck:



Now turn the key to the run position. Do not probe the self-test plug with the test light as pin #6 goes to the coil of the fuel pump relay and is not the power going to the fuel pump.

Originally Posted by Qstaar17

Please tell me where to place my leads or what to do with my test light.

The clip of the test light is to be grounded to a good ground point like you did when testing the fuses in the relay/fuse box.
With the point of the Test light probe points going to the fuel pump from the Inertia switch along the route to the fuel pump plug.

Originally Posted by Qstaar17

I assume if my test light lights up when I make contact with pin 6, with the key to on the pump is receiving power?

No, it should not have any power as you are grounding that point.

[subford]

Originally Posted by Qstaar17

Please tell me where to place my leads or what to do with my test light.

With Pin#6 grounded turn the key to the run position.
Did the fuel pump relay click as pin #6 is grounded and then when the ground is removed?


If so ground pin #6 again with the key to the run position.
Does the Dark Green wire with a yellow stripe light the test light at the Inertia switch at C208?
Does the Pink wire with a black stripe light the test light at the Inertia switch at C208?


If yes to the above two questions then check for power on the Pink wire with a black stripe at the C219 Connector on the drivers frame rail. Do you have power at both the male and female side of the connector C219?


Next would be power at C300 but that one may be hard to get to near or on top of the tank.





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[GypsyR]

This forum needs one of those 'like" button things for when somebody goes over and above to post good tech information.

[AnotherMike]

Originally Posted by HarryStone

WD 40 is not a rust penetrant. Get a good spray penetrant instead.

Originally Posted by GypsyR

The last few years I've been using PB Blaster. It stinks but seems to have some actual penetrating value. It's paraffin based and mechanics have been using paraffin for such for well over a hundred years. so there's that. I find that if it helps, it does best if left overnight. I've tried about every other penetrant out there and found them useless. PB at least seems to help sometimes.

^^^ What they said. When I was working at JPL-NASA I had occasion to walk some mechanical parts across the grounds to the on-site experimental machine shop (yes, they have one!) for work - making custom brackets, milling electrostatic printer heads (15 minutes versus a new $750 head), etc... Some of the things that the shop was doing was insane... like drilling 1 inch deep holes (about 3cm) that were 0.04 inch (1 millimeter) in diameter...

Anyway, when I asked what was the best chemical to use to loosen rusted nuts the universal answer was to soak the bolt and nut with PB Blaster, and to let it sit at least overnight if not over the weekend... and if necessary soak a a disposable rag with it and place that over the nut, and then tape down a large plastic baggie over it to minimize the evaporation... and some times you just had to use "the big blue wrench"... (their term) i.e. warm it with a torch just enough to break the nut loose... let it cool a little and then put a box wrench on it. The head machinist told me that using WD40 was about as effective as spraying the nut with cheap kerosene.

Mike

[Mark_T]

Warning : WARNING Not smart to use the big blue wrench (torch) on fuel tank. Will cause pain and death.

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by subford

With Pin#6 grounded turn the key to the run position.
Did the fuel pump relay click as pin #6 is grounded and then when the ground is removed?


If so ground pin #6 again with the key to the run position.
Does the Dark Green wire with a yellow stripe light the test light at the Inertia switch at C208?
Does the Pink wire with a black stripe light the test light at the Inertia switch at C208?


If yes to the above two questions then check for power on the Pink wire with a black stripe at the C219 Connector on the drivers frame rail. Do you have power at both the male and female side of the connector C219?


Next would be power at C300 but that one may be hard to get to near or on top of the tank.





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Thanks a million, going to give this a try next time I’m at the RV storage. Just want to be 100% sure it’s the pump before dropping the fuel tank.

[GypsyR]

Originally Posted by Mark_T

Warning : WARNING Not smart to use the big blue wrench (torch) on fuel tank. Will cause pain and death.

But a possibly REALLY cool explosion!

Also there might be a little dirt and debris in top of the tank right around the sender. As long as it doesn't interfere with the seal, try to ignore it. If you have to, maybe brush it away. What you don't want to do is use a shop vacuum to remove it. I wasn't there but I heard tell it makes your shop vac explode like a bomb, scattering debris all over the garage. The three people involved swear to this day that none of them had to go and change underwear afterwards, but...

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by GypsyR

But a possibly REALLY cool explosion!

Also there might be a little dirt and debris in top of the tank right around the sender. As long as it doesn't interfere with the seal, try to ignore it. If you have to, maybe brush it away. What you don't want to do is use a shop vacuum to remove it. I wasn't there but I heard tell it makes your shop vac explode like a bomb, scattering debris all over the garage. The three people involved swear to this day that none of them had to go and change underwear afterwards, but...

Got it

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by GypsyR

I try and ignore Youtube howtos, too many talking heads with zero qualifications. Just changed my pump. Half full 70 gallon tank. I put a piece of plywood down and threw my motorcycle jack under it. Let down and jacked back up, easy peasy. I don't think I'd like using load straps. Cheaper though I expect. Different strokes...
My jack I already had as a father's day present. It came from WalMart but it's basically like this one. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-l...BoCODQQAvD_BwE
I'm not big on loaning out tools but if I knew a neighbor was faced with such a job, I'd have my jack right over to them.

I think I'm going to use that Harbor Freight Jack. My 75 gal tank is pretty huge. Wondering if the tank will be able to balance on the jack.

[GypsyR]

Balanced nicely on mine. I have a couple of 2x12 boards in the coach for jack pads. I grabbed one of those and trimmed it down to fit in between the "legs" on top of the jack. To sort of spread the load. If my tank had been closer to empty I probably wouldn't have bothered with that. Also I did mine in the back yard and so used a half sheet of plywood to put the jack on.

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by subford

You might want to ground pin #6 or short pin #2 to pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug (connector). Then turn the key to the run position and then you can trace the power to the pump with a loading ice pick test light.


Note the EEC self-test plug (connector) is also called the Data Link Connector.
















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When I ground pin #6 and turn the key, there is no relay click. The fuel pump relay does click when pin #6 on the EEC self test plug is not grounded. Probed the inertia switch connector C208 with the ignition on and pin #6 grounded. The green wire lights my test light but the pink wire does not. It's hard to tell but I could have my colors backwards. I didn't search for C219 because both wires did not cause the light to come on. What does this mean? Thanks for your help.

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by GypsyR

Balanced nicely on mine. I have a couple of 2x12 boards in the coach for jack pads. I grabbed one of those and trimmed it down to fit in between the "legs" on top of the jack. To sort of spread the load. If my tank had been closer to empty I probably wouldn't have bothered with that. Also I did mine in the back yard and so used a half sheet of plywood to put the jack on.

Ok going to find something to place on the jack stand to even the load. The RV is on concrete so I have a flat and stable surface. Wondering if I will need the RV jacks for any reason. If I raise them I’m thinking the motorcycle jack will have trouble reaching the tank even though this would give me more room to work.