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Old 05-15-2020, 11:47 PM   #1
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1997 Ford F53 V8 460 Crank No Start

Help. She cranks but will not start. Battery is good, terminals replaced, inertia switch is not activated, I hear a click from the relay, swapped relays anyway with no joy, performed fuel pressure test with cheap Harbor Freight gage and got zero pressure. As I was about to start looking at the fuel pump, I started probing all fuzes in the distribution box with a test light. No power to fuse 11 (Starter relay coil) not even with key in start. The 30amp fuze is good but no power is supplied to the fuze. Now I'm scratching my head.
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Old 05-16-2020, 07:31 AM   #2
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If it cranks fuse #11 and power to it is OK.
Sounds like a bad fuel pump.
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Old 05-16-2020, 11:53 PM   #3
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If it cranks fuse #11 and power to it is OK.
Sounds like a bad fuel pump.
It does. I will first try a fuel filter and I still have no pressure, swap pumps.
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Old 05-19-2020, 08:50 PM   #4
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My 93 did the same. dropped the tank changes pump but before replacing tank tested the new pump, would not run. Checked power in harness all was good. Being an electrician started tracing continuity from pump back. Found the terminal on top of the tank was bad and not sending voltage thru to pump connection in tank. To keep from hunting down a new 3 pipe plate I drilled the plate and inserted a plastic covered crimp sleeve in the hole and made the connections then sealed the sleeve with gas resistant silicone on both sides. So far so good.
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Old 05-20-2020, 12:11 AM   #5
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Thanks

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My 93 did the same. dropped the tank changes pump but before replacing tank tested the new pump, would not run. Checked power in harness all was good. Being an electrician started tracing continuity from pump back. Found the terminal on top of the tank was bad and not sending voltage thru to pump connection in tank. To keep from hunting down a new 3 pipe plate I drilled the plate and inserted a plastic covered crimp sleeve in the hole and made the connections then sealed the sleeve with gas resistant silicone on both sides. So far so good.
I was hoping it wasnít the pump. I replaced the fuel filter and tested the inertia switch. Switch wasnít functioning at its beat so Iím going to replace it. I donít want to drop the tank with 60 gallons so Iíll have it towed to a repair place. I really just wanted to isolate it to the fuel pump. Thereís no fuel pressure and I had my wife turn the key while listening at the fuel tank, no sound. Just waiting on my income tax to get her to a shop.
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Old 05-20-2020, 04:59 AM   #6
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Before puling tank, check under hood fuse box. If horn works, switch horn and fuel pump relays. This fixed my fuel problem. Eddie Elk.
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Old 05-20-2020, 05:04 AM   #7
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To drop tank containing fuel, Go on Youtube. Buy 2 heavy crank straps, put around fuel tank and frame braces, unbolt and slowly lower tank. Guy did it on Youtube. Eddie Elk.
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Old 05-20-2020, 11:13 PM   #8
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I try and ignore Youtube howtos, too many talking heads with zero qualifications. Just changed my pump. Half full 70 gallon tank. I put a piece of plywood down and threw my motorcycle jack under it. Let down and jacked back up, easy peasy. I don't think I'd like using load straps. Cheaper though I expect. Different strokes...
My jack I already had as a father's day present. It came from WalMart but it's basically like this one. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-l...BoCODQQAvD_BwE
I'm not big on loaning out tools but if I knew a neighbor was faced with such a job, I'd have my jack right over to them.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:55 AM   #9
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Before puling tank, check under hood fuse box. If horn works, switch horn and fuel pump relays. This fixed my fuel problem. Eddie Elk.
Thanks, I checked the relays and distribution box fuses but will double check. I ordered a new inertia switch to see if it’s that. I want to read voltage at the tank. If that doesn’t work. Replace fuel pump.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:57 AM   #10
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To drop tank containing fuel, Go on Youtube. Buy 2 heavy crank straps, put around fuel tank and frame braces, unbolt and slowly lower tank. Guy did it on Youtube. Eddie Elk.
Ok I’m very tempted. Thanks
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Old 05-21-2020, 03:02 AM   #11
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I try and ignore Youtube howtos, too many talking heads with zero qualifications. Just changed my pump. Half full 70 gallon tank. I put a piece of plywood down and threw my motorcycle jack under it. Let down and jacked back up, easy peasy. I don't think I'd like using load straps. Cheaper though I expect. Different strokes...
My jack I already had as a father's day present. It came from WalMart but it's basically like this one. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-l...BoCODQQAvD_BwE
I'm not big on loaning out tools but if I knew a neighbor was faced with such a job, I'd have my jack right over to them.
Looking at that jack. Makes the job seem like I can definitely get it done. My next concern is rusty bolts. Maybe I’ll spray with WD40.
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Old 05-21-2020, 06:08 AM   #12
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You might want to ground pin #6 or short pin #2 to pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug (connector). Then turn the key to the run position and then you can trace the power to the pump with a loading ice pick test light.


Note the EEC self-test plug (connector) is also called the Data Link Connector.
















/
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Old 05-21-2020, 09:40 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Qstaar17 View Post
Looking at that jack. Makes the job seem like I can definitely get it done. My next concern is rusty bolts. Maybe Iíll spray with WD40.
WD 40 is not a rust penetrant. Get a good spray penetrant instead.
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Old 05-21-2020, 09:55 AM   #14
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The last few years I've been using PB Blaster. It stinks but seems to have some actual penetrating value. It's paraffin based and mechanics have been using paraffin for such for well over a hundred years. so there's that. I find that if it helps, it does best if left overnight. I've tried about every other penetrant out there and found them useless. PB at least seems to help sometimes.
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