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Old 06-23-2021, 02:59 PM   #1
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1999 F53 Parking Brake Parts

I'm having difficulty locating specific part numbers and reliable sources for the 1999 Ford F53 Parking Brake Assembly. I'm looking for the base part number for the entire assembly, and all the parts that would be necessary to rebuild it. Any information would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 06-23-2021, 08:24 PM   #2
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Perhaps you could find all the info you need, if your P-B system is the one I'm thinking of, at this website. OldUsedBear spent years gathering info on the trouble prone P-B system used by gas rig manufacturers. If yours is named AutoPark, he likely has something that would help.
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Old 06-23-2021, 09:18 PM   #3
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OldUsedBear was a Workhorse Autopark expert.

F53 uses a different setup.

This thread has some good info on the F53 brake
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Old 06-24-2021, 07:46 PM   #4
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Looking back through my notes, I ran across this information about the F53 Emergency Brake:


Quote:
At the 2005 Perry FMCA Rally, Ron Pung - Ford Customer Service, Modified Vehicle Specialist, from Ford put on a short seminar on Maintenance followed by a question and answer session. One of the things he mentioned was the importance of checking the fluid level in the Parking Brake housing every 12 months or sooner if any sign of leakage occurs. The cavity only holds about 4 oz of Mercon/Dexron III automatic transmission fluid so it is critical that the level be properly maintained. Parts alone to repair this item if it is run dry cost over $1000. The picture below shows the location of the plug you must remove to see if the level is correct. The fluid level is the bottom of the plug opening so it should be filled to the point it starts to run out. It is located 1/2 way up on the drivers side of the transmission just above where the parking brake cable is connected to the housing. I couldn't get a socket wrench on it because the parking brake cable was in the way. I folded a small piece of paper and cut the end to a point to use as a funnel when I topped mine off. If it's low, the seals should be checked/replaced and the level rechecked more often. I don't remember hearing about checking this in my owner's manual.
Quote:
Posted By: Ipanema on 04/05/05 06:17pm: A great post fellow members. I spoke to my Service Center here in Port Charlotte and the owner gave the following info:These parking brake carriers are very expensive to replace or repair. Ford does not offer repair parts, they just sell the whole assembly for well over a thousand dollars. However, we have rebuilt every damaged one that has come in at about half the cost of a new one.

These units get damaged by people who drive away with the parking brake applied. With the parking brake applied even a little bit, the shoes and drums get extremely hot, which causes the rear oil seal to leak the fluid out. When the fluid is low, the bearings in the unit run dry and get damaged.

People usually recognize that they have a problem when one of two things is observed:
(1) They notice that the parking brake is not effective, or barely effective.
(2) They notice a rumbling sound in the drivetrain. People often mistake this sound for bad universal joints or a noisy differential.

As far as maintenance, all that is necessary is to inspect the unit for fluid leaks, and inspect the condition of the parking brake shoes and drum at each service interval.

To prevent damage and failures, be absolutely certain that the parking brake is released before driving away. Check for the brake indicator light on the dashboard. Check for any feeling that the coach is not rolling freely.

A good way to prevent accidentally driving away with the parking brake on is to apply it very firmly each time you use it. That way you won't be able to drive way easily without first releasing the parking brake. But most people just push the parking brake pedal down somewhat, so it is possible for the power of the vehicle to overcome the resistance of the parking brake."
Quote:
Posted By: fbauer on 02/22/05 02:03pm
I posted this a year or two ago and I bet there are a few out there who might be helped if I re-post it. It's a bit long - but if you have a need to know - this will be very informative. If not - get on away from here.

The 1999 V10 F53 Ford chassis I own (under a Southwind 35S) has the parking brake attached at the rear of the transmission in such a way as to spread open an internal brake shoe to lockup a brake drum connected to the drive shaft.

If you have run with this brake on too many times, you may be thinking of installing a new brake shoe yourself, or you're living without the brake because you don't want to get into a big labor bill. If this sounds like you - you may want to consider the info below.

I drove off with mine on so often that I burned it up pretty bad. It could no longer be adjusted tight enough to be effective. Here is what I got into. It looks easier than it is - but then it isn't all that big a challenge after all.

Do not tackle this unless you have help available. The transfer case, which contains the brake assembly must come off and it's a bit heavy for one person. You will need to purchase a new brake shoe and new front and rear seal for this unit and be prepared to buy a new bearing for the end of the unit that mounts toward the drive shaft. A new gasket to the tranny end will be needed too.

Cost is $220 to $275 for the shoe. About $91 for the seals and about $70 for the bearing. The gasket is maybe 5 bucks or so. Some Ford dealers will give you a break and some won't - so shop around - if it's so you can.

Remove the brake cable. You'll need a tool you can slide up into the locking prongs on the cable clamp to release it. You can make something to do this with if you're handy. If not - you've already gone too far. Just don't bust the prongs off or you could wind up buying a new cable too.

Remove 4 bolts (12mm - 12 point socket) and move the d/shaft aside. Prop it up or wire it up out of the way. Remove six bolts from the tranny end of the transfer unit A ratchet wrench works good here.

Use something to lower the unit onto (like a 5 gal bucket with a lid) and careful pry the unit loose and toward the rear and off the splined shaft from the tranny. It will move back several inches before it drops loose. Be prepared for the weight and keep something close under it so it can't fall to the ground. Once free, transport it to a workbench. Loosen the oil plug and remove it. Pour out the transmission fluid (it's Mercon III).

At this point - you need a machine shop or garage that has available - a 2-9/16 1" inch drive socket (thin wall) and a matching 1 inch drive torque wrench. You will need the use of a hydraulic press to press off the rear bearing and perhaps press on the new one. The Ford manual says to press the new one on using the big nut by locking the entire unit in a vise (via a fabricated bolt on adapter) and tightening the nut to press the bearing into position. I used a press and a brass pipe of just the right size.

Straighten out the indentation (that keeps the nut locked in position) with a punch. Take the big nut off. It will take some muscle and must be secured in a vise, a BIG vise. Having someone hold it while you turn the wrench won't work. When you get the nut off, you can get the rest of it apart by turning the drum end up and dropping it lightly onto a wooden surface like the top of a workbench. THE REAR BEARING AND SEAL will come out still on the shaft. The seal can't be replaced or re-used or re-seated while it is on the shaft and the bearing must come off first. It must be pressed off and everyone I asked - said it would likely be damaged in the process. I had a new bearing ready but the old one came off easier than expected - It could have been re-used in this case but I chose to not to take any chances that it may have been distorted in the removal process. Have the drum turned on a lathe if it has hot spots burned into it or you could buy a new one at this point.

Somewhere in this process you will remove 4 bolts and replace the brake shoes, both sides of which are on a plate with the springs already attached. You will also re-install the lever pawl which causes the shoes to spread when operated against it's own spring. It is straight forward and obvious. I don't think you can get this part wrong.

The new bearing comes with a new race. Pull the old race out using whatever pullers work and don't scar anything up. Install the new race and then the bearing from the tranny end and carefully press in the new seal. Then install the shaft through the seal and the bearing. BUT FIRST - MAKE SURE you have installed the drum (if you took it off to be turned down) with the bolt heads on the inside and the nuts on the outside. From here - you need to turn the tranny end of the shaft up and either use the nut to press it all together or use a press and the proper sized pipe. Machine shops usually have these items on hand. Tighten the big nut with a torque wrench (2-9/16") set at 216 to 223 ft lbs. I used 220 ft lbs.

This should only be attempted by those with some mechanical skills and a whole lot of common sense. I had a Ford dealer print out a copy of the exploded view of this unit. The diagram I worked with was for a 2000 F550. It was the best they could come up with. However, it was identical to mine. I talked the service desk scheduler at my local dealership into showing me the Ford manual section about this unit. I read it on site and made a couple notes. He also copied a list of torque settings for me - of most of the mounting bolts involved. I did not press my luck there any further.

Study the exploded view before you tackle this. Become familiar with the spacer and do not get it in the wrong place. It goes on FIRST after the shaft (with the drum installed) has been reinserted through the rear seal and the rear bearing. Ford manuals have instructions for using a micrometer to determine the thickness this spacer needs to be. They have different thicknesses available with different part numbers. I had no reason to believe the original spacer thickness would need to be changed and that proved to be the case. My assembled unit had no play. Incidentally, 220 Ft lbs of torque brought the nut around to the same exact spot it had been at the start and right at that point clicked off indicating the required torque. I punched the lip on the nut over to lock the nut at the same spot also.

Fill the case about half way full with Mercon III tranny oil and roll it around on it's side until it is on a level plane (like when it's mounted on the tranny. Let the excess oil drain until it's level with the bottom of the hole and put the plug back in.

Clean the gasket surfaces and reinstall with the new gasket. Line up the pin and slip it all back onto the end of the tranny. Hook up the brake cable and reconnect the drive shaft.

Next, you need to block the wheels so the motorhome CAN NOT ROLL under any circumstance. Then put it in neutral with the p/brake off so you can physically move the drum on the tranny to line up with the bolt holes on the driveshaft. You really need to find out what torque to use on these bolts. I have a copy of a page in the manual used by Ford dealers - but there are several bolts described along the driveshaft and I'm not sure my interpretation of these torque values would be the same as yours. In other words - I'm not certain I used the correct ones - I took the service manager's word for HIS interpretation - but - nice guy that he was - I detected an element of doubt.


The key to a sucessful parking brake replacement on the 1999 F53 chassis (like mine)is preparation. Study all the information you can get and think about what you're doing before you do it. You already know your abilities. If this project is doable for you - then you can save some big bucks - like the labor costs. You will also know exactly what is going around under your coach.

Next post is about what I did to prevent it from happening again.

I sure hope this helps someone get a parking brake fixed. I've read several posts about this very problem and the usual comment is something like "I never use it anyway" or "I don't really need it, I just put 'er in park". Well, maybe that's OK, but this whole transfer case and brake unit lists for just under a thousand dollars at your friendly Ford dealership. Makes you wonder why they put them on in the first place. Just silly laws? I think not.

FBauer


Posted By: fbauer on 02/22/05 02:05pm
Follow up p/brake "on light" fix.

After the parking brake repair I just described - I wasn't about to let it happen again.

The reason I drove off with the p/brake on is mostly because the light on the instrument panel is too dim to get my attention. The steering wheel position that fits me best also just happens to block my view of it.

I picked up a good sized 12 volt red light at a flying J. They have a lot of heavy duty stuff for truckers. Radio Shack probably has something I could have used too, but I saw this light at J shaped like a skull. You know, the kind that would appeal to a biker or a trucker or young kid with a hot rod.

I mounted it on a home made bracket that positioned it right where it would be hard to miss. I ran an unswitched hot wire to it through a fuse holder. I ran the ground side over to the switch on the parking brake pedal. By using a Radio Shack piggy back type spade connector, I was able to connect the wire to the same one which grounds the instrument panel brake "on" indicator lamp. Now- not only is the one in the panel on - so is the big red skull. While at Radio Shack - I picked up extra insurance - a little piezo electric buzzer which I wired across the light. Apply the P/brake and the light comes on nice and bright and the buzzer drives you nuts until you release the p/brake. If you manage to miss the light - the buzzer gets you. A little overkill - but the brake replacement I just did myself cost me over 400 bucks and some busted knuckles. Even though I saved at least 500 - 600 dollars (maybe more) in labor - It was still a pretty expensive lesson.

fbauer

This picture shows the location of the plug to check the level of fluid in the Emergency Brake cavity. It should be full to the point it runs out when the plug is removed.
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Old 06-24-2021, 10:51 PM   #5
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Thanks folks! I was actually able to find a replacement PB Assembly at a transmission shop today, locally no less. I got super lucky. Instead of having to spend $2000+ on a new/refurb or having to rebuild the old one, I spent only $250 on a used part.

So my advice to anyone in the future, check transmission shops. Basically the transmission in the F53 is common in other trucks too, and low and behold this PB assembly comes attached to it. When they rebuild these transmissions, the PB assembly just gets put aside and is unused. So I guess it's common to see transmission-attached components like this lying around at a transmission shop. My shop had two or three from previous transmission rebuilds just sitting there. They were happy to unload a part that would have just gone unsold.
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