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gatorb8 · 11-19-2018, 01:27 PM

Luckily my brakes failed in my driveway today. I say luckily because it didn't happen on Thanksgiving travels.

I crawled under the rv and quickly located the rusted and leaking metal brake line between the master cylinder and the antilock brake module about midway down the frame rail on the driver side. There are 4 lines running along the frame rail held in place with white plastic clips. It looks as though the plactic clips came loose from the frame mount and vibration may have chaffed the metal lines opening them up to corrosion (my guess anyway).

So now I have to decide wether to have it towed to the Ford dealer or fix it myself. It looks like 3/16" line about 9' long following a serpentine route along the frame rail from the antilock brake module to a connector next to the radiator. I am thinking of using 2 premade 3/16" poly-armour lines each 60" long. That way I don't have to cut and flare. They are $9 each at the local auto store and add in a coupler for $6.

Any mechanics out there that can tell me if I'm on the right track?
thanks!

my pre-drive checklist will be updated to include crawl under and inspect brake lines. We easily could have lost our lives and a 5 minute check could prevent it.

gatorb8 · 11-19-2018, 06:08 PM

Another idea I have been given is to cut out just the chaffed/rusted part of the brake line and insert a replacement line. I'm looking into that idea as replacing the 9' serpentine line looks incredibly difficult.

House Husband · 11-19-2018, 07:19 PM

Brake lines are double flared. Not really easy to do for professionals, with hand tools. I would go with your idea of the 2 lines with a coupler.

Richard

vettenuts · 11-19-2018, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RLS7201

Brake lines are double flared. Not really easy to do for professionals, with hand tools. I would go with your idea of the 2 lines with a coupler.

Richard

Yes, did this a few times. The flare tool is a little pricey, at least a good one. If it is truly a corrosion issue, I would personally seek out stainless brake lines for replacement.

Waiter21 · 11-20-2018, 06:36 AM

This is what I would do.

If the problem is truely chaffing and except for the "chaffed area" the line is serviceable as far as rust or damage. , I'd consider cutting the old line a few inches forward of the chafe, in a place that's good tubing, then replace that bad section of tubing from the anti skid pump to the cutoff piece.

You would need to flare the old end, and also one end of the new tube after you cut it to length so it will mate up with the pump and the old piece.

Double Flare tool should be available to borrow at the auto parts store .. They are also available for about $25 at Harbor Freight / Amazon..

If you need to do any bends, you also want to get the tube bender, ($8)

If you haven't done this before, You can practice on the piece of tubing that you cut off.. Heres a video that shows you what to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wK1TL35pnNc

..

gatorb8 · 11-20-2018, 06:54 AM

Thanks guys,
My quick look yesterday made me feel it was an isolated fail point. Today I plan to take a closer look and scotch pad any suspect areas. If it is truely a chaff point single failure, I will try to cut and install an inv flare union. I think there is some extra brake line that would alow this by slightly changing one of the bends. If there is not enough brake line to accomplish it with just a union, I will install a new line from the repair point to the abs pump as Waiter21 suggested.

If I have a systemic rust problem I plan to take it to a pro as it is beyond my ability or interest.

bleeding question: I looked at the master cylinder and it is in very tight quarters up high. out of the way, and not possible to pour brake fluid in from the can. Is there a pump I could use to get it in the mc? and: how far do I let the fluid in the mc go down before topping off?
thanks! all help and suggestions appreciated!

hopefully NAPA has a good flare tool and brake line parts, we have one nearby

ransil · 11-20-2018, 07:01 AM

Buy nickle copper brake lines, very easy to bend and flare.

Waiter21 · 11-20-2018, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Is there a pump I could use to get it in the mc? and: how far do I let the fluid in the mc go down before topping off?

When I replaced the brake hoses on mine, same issue.

I installed SpeedBleeders on the calipers (I love these)

To re-fill the Master Cylinder (MC), I'd pour fluid into a small can, and then reach up and pour this into the MC. I could see the level in the translucent side if I held a bright light above the MC.

Before bleeding, I removed the differential switch from the MC, then re-installed it after I completed the bleed.

Read about it here:

F53 Replacing Brake Hoses – 1999 Southwind 35S

..

gatorb8 · 11-20-2018, 07:18 AM

Thanks Waiter21
I have speed bleeders and they are going on!

When you say remove the differential switch, do you mean just disconnect the wire connector or uninstall the whole switch from the mc?

gatorb8 · 11-20-2018, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ransil

Buy nickle copper brake lines, very easy to bend and flare.

yes, I was looking at that or poly-armour which come pre flared

Waiter21 · 11-20-2018, 07:25 AM

I completely remove it. Its plastic, so be careful...

You can try leaving it in. The issue will be that the switch plunger thats inside the MC won't re-center (maybe).. To get it to re-center, apply slight pressure on the brakes, then quickly loosen/re tighten the brake line tube for the front (or back) whichever wasn't bleed last. i.e. If you bleed the rears last, then loosen/re-tighten the front tube.

You'll get a small burst of fluid when you do this so get a couple paper towels ready..

If you remove the switch, it will usually center itself with no problems..

btolle · 11-20-2018, 07:27 AM

The brake lines must be bled after any repair.

Look for water in the brake fluid. If the brakes got excessively hot the brake fluid may have boiled and will attract moisture.

Unless you are experienced with brake work I would highly recommend shop service. Incorrect work could be fatal!

gatorb8 · 11-20-2018, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by btolle

The brake lines must be bled after any repair.

Look for water in the brake fluid. If the brakes got excessively hot the brake fluid may have boiled and will attract moisture.

Unless you are experienced with brake work I would highly recommend shop service. Incorrect work could be fatal!

l

thanks for the caution

I used to prep and race a 74 911 at Laguna Seca and Sears Point so I spent 20 weekends a year wrenching......flushed the brakes after every race so I'm beyond "beginner" in that department

gatorb8 · 11-20-2018, 03:24 PM

Cutting out the small rusted line, double flare and union went in with the usual swearing when stuff got in eyes and elbos banged....flares looked good.
I gave up trying to put fluid in the master cyl until I have a clean way to pump it in. I found no clean solutions at 3 auto parts stores today.....

time to visit family, rv aint goin’ anywhere!