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Old 07-23-2021, 06:55 PM   #1
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2014 F53 coolant flush and change

We have a Tiffin 36LA with a Ford V10 of course. Went to Ford to get the Gold coolant recommended. Lifted the hood and cannot find any radiator cap. Has anyone done this on their own and if so where do u put the coolant in. There seems to be a petcock valve at the bottom of the radiator for draining the old coolant. if you have any experience doing this, please let me know. Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2021, 09:23 PM   #2
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Upper right (passenger) side, plastic container with a few hoses coming out of it. Has pressure cap on it. Attachment 337033
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Old 07-24-2021, 07:31 AM   #3
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RRR, is absolutely correct. Most systems these days have an overflow tank that is pressurized and therefore that cap is the pressure cap. There's no opening for coolant on the top of the radiator!!!

I'm not sure why the manufacturers made that change but I'm sure there's is, or they think there is a good reason. The system still works exactly the same. The coolant expands when hot and flows into the overflow container. When the coolant cools down the coolant is drawn back into the radiator.

Some time ago I tried to clean the overflow tank. That's almost impossible. There is a lot of scum and other particles inside and I didn't want it mixed with the other coolant then brought back into the radiator.

Maybe others have some ideas why we have the new pressurized overflow tank system and what's the advantage(s)??
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Old 07-24-2021, 10:06 AM   #4
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When talking to the engineers at the Louisville dealer show, I was told that in the “old days” the water heats and expands. This pushed coolant out of the radiator. If you refilled when cold, the next time the engine got up to temperature the coolant would overflow and so it was a endless cycle. With the advent of hotter running engines it was worse. They added the overflow tank so the coolant was not lost. It flowed into the tank and was drawn back into the radiator when cooling.
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Old 07-24-2021, 11:02 AM   #5
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Ok here is the reason for no radiator pressure cap, ANY air that is in the cooling system reduces the cooling performance, so manufacturers devised a way to eliminate the "air gap" the bottle that everyone refers to as a "coolant overflow" bottle is in fact a "de-gas" bottle, it allows the virtually hydrolocked cooling system to expand and contract with engine cooling/heating cycles as most fluids expand with temperature. The degas bottle insures that the engine is always drawing in coolant without any air. It has been proven over and over that once a radiator cap is removed on top of the radiator it leaks, minimal leaks yes, it is easy for the radiator to draw in air when it is in cool down mode as coolant drawn from a old style " overflow" bottle via a tube from the bottom of the overflow bottle to the top of the radiator cap, its easier to draw air than coolant, thats why the old " overflow" bottle has been replaced. The bigger the engine and the total length of heater hoses increases the amount of expansion that is needed. Plus there are volumes written about coolant temperature vs engine efficiency, and that is a whole other subject.
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Old 07-27-2021, 06:47 PM   #6
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avfordguy,

To put it more simply would you agree the newer external plastic de-gas bottle is very similar to the old style overflow tank but more efficient? It basically stops the transfer of air and increases or improves the transfer of coolant back and forth between the tank and radiator.

Sorry it's just the teacher in me that always tries to come up with easier answers or ways of explaining how things work. Main purpose is so more can better understand.
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Old 07-27-2021, 11:26 PM   #7
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avfordguy,

To put it more simply would you agree the newer external plastic de-gas bottle is very similar to the old style overflow tank but more efficient? It basically stops the transfer of air and increases or improves the transfer of coolant back and forth between the tank and radiator.

Sorry it's just the teacher in me that always tries to come up with easier answers or ways of explaining how things work. Main purpose is so more can better understand.
Modern day de gas bottles will have at least 2 coolant lines, one being 3/4 inch or larger that is attached to the suction side if the water pump or is attached to the lower radiator hose so that the water pump always sees coolant and no air, the other line(s) could be "bleed" lines for the upper portion of the radiator, and/or higher points of the engine block/head assembly. Is it the same as an overflow bottle, no. Think of it this way, in an old system when the t stat opens you get a swirl in the upper chamber of the radiator right? As that "swirl" is sucked down through the radiator fins it contains air. Sorry I took so long explaining it, it just the engineer in me.
If you want to chat you can PM me will be glad to respond.
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Old 07-28-2021, 01:51 PM   #8
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Can the teacher and the engineer tell the rest of us how to go about a coolant change out in our F-53's??? That is what started the thread and we need to know how to do it right. From an old mechanic.
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Old 07-28-2021, 02:03 PM   #9
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What johnbell47 said.
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Old 07-28-2021, 02:37 PM   #10
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DON'T kid yourselves.. Federal emission law.. changed it.. way back in 70,s... government wanted to stop all the coolant going down on roads and into storm drains.. one car.. no one cares.. but millions.. I remember as a kid.. in60,s that when it rained you could see all the rainbow colors when playing in the creek.. the roads would be covered in coolant..

So manufacturer faced real government fines.. if they did not phase in New system so coolant is not lost..

So ford does not make the f53 eng and trans any different than pickups.. so they just transferred everything straight over to f53 frame.. it was cheaper.. so it's money..
You can go to something like big box auto parts store and grab a book for trucks.. same make and yr.. they are so close

Now.. radiator drain valve sometimes works and sometimes does not.. so be careful.. if you force it too hard.. you can destroy the radiator.. so try it gently..
If it does not budge.. just take off lower hose.. I have even had to just cut hose off.. and clamp off because no one changed coolant..
NOW IS GREAT TIME.. to change thermostat.. go one or two cooler.. and check hoses or change..
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Old 07-30-2021, 03:17 PM   #11
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Can the teacher and the engineer tell the rest of us how to go about a coolant change out in our F-53's??? That is what started the thread and we need to know how to do it right. From an old mechanic.
Depending on the year, and the visual condition of the degas bottle , here is the best way to do a coolant exchange ( without flush)
1. Best to be done at room temperature
2. You will need some sort of catch pan IF you have to remove the lower radiator hose.
3 plastic drain valve on the lower radiator tank can be opened by hand or with a pair if pliers ( rightey tightly leftey loosey)
4 open drain valve, once coolant starts to slow down, now open the degas bottle cap.
5 If degas bottle has any kind of buildup inside, this indicates the coolant has exceeded its lifespan and you will need to flush the cooling system.
6. ONLY USE MOTORCRAFT VC-1 coolant flush, follow the directions on the bottle.
7 once drained ( and flushed if needed) just close up the drain valve or reattach the lower radiator hose.
8. Refill with correct coolant based on your application. Just fill the degas bottle 1/2 way
9 leave the cap off the degas bottle.
10 run engine at idle, keeping an eye on the degas bottle, keep it at least 1/4 full.
11. Once the upper radiator hose is hot ( not warm) check degas bottle, should be between cold and hot.
12.replace degas cap
13. Let engine idle for 10 min
14. **** off engine, check degas bottle for correct level.
15. Check degas bottle again after engine cools down ( about 6 hours).

I may have missed some steps, just trying to make it easy to understand.

One thing I did miss is that if your rv has a heater control valve ( most class A's do) make sure heater control is set to floor and max temp ( no blower needed) , note ford class C's do not have a heater control valve they have a "blend door" no action needed.
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Old 07-30-2021, 06:35 PM   #12
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OK, That's good information. What do we do if our coolant water is used to heat up the water tank while we are driving? That would be a heater hose leaving the coolant area and traveling under the RV and into the hot water tank area which then circulates and heats the water.

By the way if you use that water it's really hot as we know the coolant temp is in the 200 degree range when the engine is running. WBGO does not tell us anything about that service. I doubt it's on the FORD service CD's either.
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Old 07-30-2021, 10:57 PM   #13
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OK, That's good information. What do we do if our coolant water is used to heat up the water tank while we are driving? That would be a heater hose leaving the coolant area and traveling under the RV and into the hot water tank area which then circulates and heats the water.

By the way if you use that water it's really hot as we know the coolant temp is in the 200 degree range when the engine is running. WBGO does not tell us anything about that service. I doubt it's on the FORD service CD's either.
Coolant pipe runs underneath the water heater tank, its attached to it. The amount from the engine to the tank ( heater) is probably less thanv1/2 gallon depending on the length of the hose to the tank, you can always follow the heater hose and disconnect it at some junction point to the motor aide assist.
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Old 08-01-2021, 07:40 PM   #14
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I recently did it on my 2015 Tiffin Open road.

To get the fluid out loosen the petcock on the bottom of the radiator and connect a vinyl hose to it to route the fluid into a bottle for recycling. You need to remove the cap on the overflow tank and the coolant will drain if you loosen the peacock enough. . The coolest capacity is almost 8 gallons, but only about half will come out.

At this point you still have 1/2 full of the old antifreeze. If you want to get most of the coolant out you need to iterate. Fill the system with distilled water by pouring it into the overflow tank Then you need to get the motor warm and run the heater to get the coolant in the heater core to mix with the distilled water. That's the process I used, I repeated the sequence 5 times and the stuff coming out at that point was mostly clear.

Another option is to just run hose water into the system and let it run out. I wanted only distilled water so I didn't like that option. Also knowing how toxic that stuff is I didn't want to drain it onto the ground.

Some recommend removing the heater hose, since the drain peacock is just as low there is no need to do that.

After the last draining I put in my concentrated coolant which since it only takes 1/2 the volume is the correct concentration. Once it heats up and cools down you can top off the tank with a bit of distilled water.

At the end I had about 20 gallons of antifreeze of various concentrations which I had to take to the city of Austin disposal place since no service place would take it.
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