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Old 07-11-2021, 01:49 PM   #1
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2014 Vista 27N Front Sway Bar

I recently purchased a 2015 Vista 27N which now has less than 8k miles on it including the 900 miles I put on it getting it home. Underneath doing routine maintenance and taking a visual look at everything, I think my front sway bar is an issue based my visual inspection. The bar is not centered in the brackets. Based on the bracket marks on the bar, it's shifted to the coach left. Also, look at the end link brackets. The one on the coach right looks bent. Less than 8k miles and tires are original. So if the previous owner hit something it didn't blow a tire. It doesn't look right to me and it seems it would affect the handling. Thoughts? Sorry the pix of the left and right side uploaded sideways but you can still see the bracket in question. Thanks.
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Old 07-11-2021, 05:41 PM   #2
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That definitely is an aftermarket sway bar. It either moved or was installed incorrectly.

Have no idea what brand that is though?
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Old 07-11-2021, 05:51 PM   #3
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Yes, an after market Titan. Installed by Rallys R US that specializes in aftermarket motorhome suspension upgrades.
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Old 07-13-2021, 01:05 PM   #4
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Definitely looks like something cause the bar to shift to the driver's side and bent the upper bracket on the passenger side. Not sure how to fix other than physical persuasion of the bracket back to it's intended position.

Usually you read of owners replacing or upgrading the rear sway bar not so much with the front. I have an older but same GVWR chassis as the 27N. The two bars look pretty much the same diameter at 38.1 mm.

http://rallysrus.com/album_9-9-16_007.htm
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Old 07-13-2021, 02:07 PM   #5
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My guess is those brackets are too weak and a big flex of the track bar caused the one side to bend inward and shift the whole thing over.

Looks like nearly same diameter as stock with shorter arms like the CHF, then its got those straight through bushing with straight arms so they had to add those upper brackets, not a great design IMO, the rubber bushing compress for suspension travel rather than pivoting like the stock ones, usually see that on vehicles with smaller travel, the F53 has quite a bit of travel 10-12" total.

Close to that leaf but doesn't look like it hitting so still functioning however another big hit could big the bracket further and cause interference or break that bracket. Minimum bracket needs to be fixed and maybe gusseted, but I would probably replace with the more standard pivoting link arms after market bar or go find a stock bar and arms.
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Old 07-13-2021, 05:43 PM   #6
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Thanks for the replies. I agree something isn't right by looking at it. Plus I don't think it handles the way others say it should. I'm having it looked at next week. Hopefully the shop will know the best route to take to rectify the bar as well as improve handling.
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Old 07-13-2021, 06:56 PM   #7
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I've seen several Stabilizer Bars (SB) mounted off center. When I've pointed it out to the owners they never responded with the RV having any issues with sway control.

If you R&R one of these F-53 SB's you'll notice there is nothing used to index or assure the SB is actually centered between the leaf springs. I've worked on at least a dozen or more and seen the off center issue more than a few times.

This is a simple fix if you have a mind to do so. All that needs to be done is loosen the bracket bolts and using a dead blow hammer center the SB. While you're doing that use a thin stick and add some polyurethane lube to the SB inside the bushing. You don't have to remove the brackets just make them loose enough to slip a flat screw driver between the SB and the bushing then smear some lube on the SB. There actually is a special poly lube used. Get it smeared real good.

If you decide to try this you can also take one side bracket off and the bushing should be spit/cut across flat spot on the bottom. Stock bushings are usually not but they are slipped on the SB before they are installed. Aftermarket bushings will be cut across the bottom and can be removed just by spreading them apart. If they are not cut you can cut them (sharpe razor blade) and they will fit back in and work just fine. That would make it much easier to lube inside the bushing.

Don't forget to use some blue lock tight andbecause it will last for several years. Then torque all bolts to 66 FT/LBS.

Being off center and perhaps not lubed well you might do that and notice a decent amount of sway improvement. A simple DIY project so don't waste your time and $$$$$. JMHO!!! I'm 77 + and still doing this stuff almost weekly !!!
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Old 07-13-2021, 07:10 PM   #8
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[QUOTE=TeJay;5830636]I've seen several Stabilizer Bars (SB) mounted off center. When I've pointed it out to the owners they never responded with the RV having any issues with sway control.

If you R&R one of these F-53 SB's you'll notice there is nothing used to index or assure the SB is actually centered between the leaf springs. I've worked on at least a dozen or more and seen the off center issue more than a few times.

This is a simple fix if you have a mind to do so. All that needs to be done is loosen the bracket bolts and using a dead blow hammer center the SB. While you're doing that use a thin stick and add some polyurethane lube to the SB inside the bushing. You don't have to remove the brackets just make them loose enough to slip a flat screw driver between the SB and the bushing then smear some lube on the SB. There actually is a special poly lube used. Get it smeared real good.

If you decide to try this you can also take one side bracket off and the bushing should be spit/cut across flat spot on the bottom. Stock bushings are usually not but they are slipped on the SB before they are installed. Aftermarket bushings will be cut across the bottom and can be removed just by spreading them apart. If they are not cut you can cut them (sharpe razor blade) and they will fit back in and work just fine. That would make it much easier to lube inside the bushing.

Don't forget to use some blue lock tight andbecause it will last for several years. Then torque all bolts to 66 FT/LBS.

Being off center and perhaps not lubed well you might do that and notice a decent amount of sway improvement. A simple DIY project so don't waste your time and $$$$$. JMHO!!! I'm 77 + and still doing this stuff almost weekly !!![/QUOTE

Thanks. I'm also concerned about the bent bracket on the right at the top. I wonder why it's bent. If I bend it back doesn't that weaken the metal and allow for it to potentially bend again?
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Old 07-13-2021, 08:51 PM   #9
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I'm also concerned about the bent bracket on the right at the top. I wonder why it's bent. If I bend it back doesn't that weaken the metal and allow for it to potentially bend again?
Yes the bent bracket is why its off center and it looks pretty weak at that point. They really should have had the side plates go all the way up but they stopped short probably to make it easier to access bolts, again it looks like a poor design to me and needs so reinforcement.

Not the stock design so who knows what the torque should be on those nuts with the straight non pivoting bushings.
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Old 07-13-2021, 09:40 PM   #10
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Who ever mounted that aftermarket SB didn't notice the bent bracket and mounted the SB off center. If you didn't live in FL I could have that fixed up in under 2 hours. If you're in the area I'd do it for free!!!

I'd take the top brackets off. The one is bent but not enough to compromise the metal. Straighten the bent one. Fix both of them by welding a piece of metal on both sides of the "L" shape all the way up to the top. It needs that to get the strength. You can still get into tighten up the bolts. That would sufficiently strengthen the brackets and fix the design flaws. Then center the SB and your links will line up.

Those type of mounts don't move as the standard F-53 links do but then again this way of attaching the SB to the link is not meant to be that moveable.

It's no different than the two different ways of attaching a shock to a frame. It either has a through bolt and the shock can swivel some on the bolt. That is done when the shock is at an angle.

Shocks that use the same way of attaching as your SB are shocks that are straight up and down and don't need the top or bottom to pivot or swivel.

If this makes no sense think about what shocks have to do when they are at an angle to the suspension movement.

If the differential moves up and down and the shocks are at an angle the ends have to swivel on the bolts.
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Old 07-14-2021, 12:55 PM   #11
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Actually, according to photos from the previous owner, it di6d look like after installation. The bent bracket and off center sw must happen during his owner ship. Tires are original so if he hit something to do it didn't blow the tire. I wonder if could have bent a rim out of round due to some vibration.
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Old 07-14-2021, 02:02 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=jharrell;5830802]Yes the bent bracket is why its off center and it looks pretty weak at that point. They really should have had the side plates go all the way up but they stopped short probably to make it easier to access bolts, again it looks like a poor design to me and needs so reinforcement.

Not the stock design so who knows what the torque should be on those nuts with the straight non pivoting bushings.[/QUOTE

This is my first experience with an f53 so I'm learning. So the bracket that looks bent is not from the factory? I assumed the after market bar attached to the same end link brackets? Would it's present position deem itself less effective?
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Old 07-14-2021, 02:09 PM   #13
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This is my first experience with an f53 so I'm learning. So the bracket that looks bent is not from the factory? I assumed the after market bar attached to the same end link brackets? Would it's present position deem itself less effective?
No the stock links are pivoting look at Sweetbriars excellent pictures above and compare to yours.

The current position won't necessarily make it less effective but there is a a chance of bending it even more then will start hitting leafs or just break off.

Just a big big axle flex from turning or going over a big curb could make it worse, probably what did it to begin with. Now that its bent out it has even more leverage to bend further, Again poor design that at minimum needs gusseting.
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Old 07-14-2021, 02:34 PM   #14
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[QUOTE=jharrell;5831711]No the stock links are pivoting look at Sweetbriars excellent pictures above and compare to yours.

The current position won't necessarily make it less effective but there is a a chance of bending it even more then will start hitting leafs or just break off.

Just a big big axle flex from turning or going over a big curb could make it worse, probably what did it to begin with. Now that its bent out it has even more leverage to bend further, Again poor design that at minimum needs gusseting.[/QUOT

Great! So do you think the factory end link brackets were removed and replaced with system one? Ate the original factory btmrackets bolt on ad well? I'm not sure what's the best course of action. In looking at new bars (which I don't think I need), the ending don't fasten in the same manner as mine.
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