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Old 05-24-2022, 06:07 PM   #71
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Computer Guy,
You probably already thought about this but:
Make sure you put new parts that would be hard to replace like fuel, oil pumps, water pumps and temperature sensors. Things you can salvage from your old engine ie alternator and anything else you can.

Hope you get back on the road soon!
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Old 05-25-2022, 10:44 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ga traveler View Post
This is the truest statement on the forum. Remember ford produced over 1.3 million v10 engines. This is a rare event. In the eleven years ford used the v10 before I retired as service manager of a large RV dealership, we never had a v10 engine failure. I canít remember of any other dealership having one blowup. They were a great engine. Somewhere along the line there was a bad casting or weak part.

I feel bad for the guy but sometimes bad things happen to good people. We all are pulling for him.

Yep. My current 2003 V10 has well over 200k trouble free miles (sans some coil packs) and the previous 2001 model I had, was approaching 300k before it was totaled in a collision. Fact is, I havenít had an engine failure in any of the many high mileage Ford vehicles Iíve owned in 46 years of driving Fords exclusively.
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Old 05-27-2022, 10:33 PM   #73
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event description on F53 v10 triton engine

I agree with the posts about a coil failure. the v10 triton has 1 coil per cylinder
and a computer that sets the engine to "failure mode" to keep from damaging
other parts when a failure like this happens. It sets a revs limit on the engine
which rougly translates to about 15 MPH so until you get it fixed, do not drive
on a freeway.

my experience is that the fix cost about $600 bucks at a goodyear shop that
did work on that type of engine (often auto shops do not).




[attached is original text for context]

Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
2015 F53 Chassis V10 misfiring on a number of cylinders, loss of power, solid engine light then as slowing starts to blink then slow to a5 mph light goes out and still low power and also like a rattling noise (maybe misfiring?). I80 in Nebraska.
Codes:
P0302, 304, 305, 307. 310, U100 and I think some more but that's all my pic captured. All the misfire codes had a "PENDING FAULT" while the U100 and after did not have that so I wonder if those were prior ones? I've never gone in and looked before so not sure.

Awaiting tow but looking for some ideas. I hate having work done 1000's of miles from home in the middle of nowhere by someone I have no history with. So, I'd like to have an idea going in what they should be looking for.
I found some posts on a bad fuel pump, dirty filter, vacuum hoses, coils and wires.

It's been 5 hours waiting for a tow (since 2PM Central). Thanks Saferide. Nothing good to say about them so far. Let's hope they can at least get me out of here before dark.

Thoughts appreciated!
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Old 05-28-2022, 06:53 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tavent View Post
I agree with the posts about a coil failure. the v10 triton has 1 coil per cylinder
and a computer that sets the engine to "failure mode" to keep from damaging
other parts when a failure like this happens. It sets a revs limit on the engine
which rougly translates to about 15 MPH so until you get it fixed, do not drive
on a freeway.

my experience is that the fix cost about $600 bucks at a goodyear shop that
did work on that type of engine (often auto shops do not).




[attached is original text for context]
Might take a little time to read the entire thread. Wasn't coil packs. I'd be ecstatic if it were coil packs. It wasn't coil packs.
There's also a picture.
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Old 06-01-2022, 02:23 PM   #75
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Any progress?
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Old 06-01-2022, 05:29 PM   #76
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Any progress?
If that is a ? for me, no, waiting on a engine. Last I was told July 12th for arrival.
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Old 06-01-2022, 06:03 PM   #77
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If that is a ? for me, no, waiting on a engine. Last I was told July 12th for arrival.
Holy Cow! They must be shipping it on a wagon with a pair of stubborn mules.
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Old 06-02-2022, 08:56 PM   #78
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Should have had RV Repair Insurance

Around 12 or 13 years ago the oil pump in my 2000 Bounder partially failed. With low oil pressure the bearings failed. My repair insurance policy paid about $6,000 to replace the engine with one rebuilt by Ford Motor Company. I learned that the dash oil pressure gauge is not a gauged; it is an idiot light in disguise. With the new engine I installed a direct reading oil pressure gauge. Mounted it with the included bracket to the bottom of the dash to left of steering column. A fitting screws into the oil filter base unit and a small diameter plastic tube runs from the fitting through an existing cable hole to the dash gauge. Has worked very well.
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Old 06-03-2022, 11:45 PM   #79
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Installed additional oil pressure gauge under dash

I am curious how the readings from your "manual" oil pressure gauge you installed under the dash to the readings obtained from the Ford oil pressure gauge in the dashboard.
Basically the same so noticeable differences?

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 06-04-2022, 04:02 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
If that is a ? for me, no, waiting on a engine. Last I was told July 12th for arrival.
Out of all the posting here, that sucks a month for a motor,,,
I am in the business and supply chain does stink...

Goodluck..

The good ole days are gone, simpler times and days,,, oh well..
just remembering .. back in 85 I grabbed a 77 blazer had 107K bad cam..etc/
during the week a grabbed a 350 from a wrecked police car, did a fast rebuild at nite after work,, Got heads done locally for $60. Honed cyl myself. pistons, bearings, cam lifters gaskets etc all under 500.. Friday nite I hit it with an orange spray bomb, pulling in truck my dads garage,, drained fluids took hood off..
8am after partying til 2am..
We pulled the motor, out in the rebuild, fired her up.. grabbed a pizza or two and a case.. cleaned up the mess, showered and ny 8pm we were out and about testing her out.
younger and different times.. noe it takes me all week to gather my thoughts to change the oil...
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Old 06-05-2022, 08:10 PM   #81
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The Ford gauge on the dash only registers zero or midway. That is because at the port where the oil filter is installed there is a pressure switch that when the pressure attains a certain pressure (for my Bounder it was about 10 psi) the switch would close and the pressure gauge would then go from zero to half way up the scale. While I kept the Ford gauge and its function, the gauge that I installed indicated actual pressure from zero to 100 psi. When the engine was cold, using 10W-30 oil, the indicted pressure at idle was about 40 psi and about 80 psi when driving. Alter the engine was warm, idle pressure in gear was about 20 psi but would go up to 25 psi in neutral because of slightly faster rpm. When driving the gauge showed about 50 psi. Had I had this gauge when a check spring in the oil pump collapsed and I only had about 10 to 12 psi when driving, just enough for the Ford gauge to show normal pressure, I could have gotten it repaired immediately and possibly saved an engine. Spending less than $50 for a gauge that provides actual oil pressure all the time is cheap insurance.
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Old 06-05-2022, 11:11 PM   #82
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Additional oil pressure gauge

Tech Writer,

Thanks for your additional information regarding actual engine oil pressure readings based on an actual oil pressure gauge!

Bill Dye
Pioneer, CA
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Old 06-07-2022, 12:20 PM   #83
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Yikes!!! ... Subscribed.
I wish you all the best getting back on the road.
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Old 06-08-2022, 06:54 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRR View Post
How did they pull the engine out? Remove windshield, come out the bottom, or by some secret incantation?
After crawling around under my 2017 Bounder 33C... The only way I can figure that the engine comes out is to remove the transmission and exhaust and then the engine can come backwards and down. It definitely isn't going out through the floor or the front... or straight down either.

computerguy - I realize it's easy to get on these forums and say what "I would do". You are into some serious money and it's your business but... As said before, the catalytic converter may have debris in it that will lead to other issues later. I would either gut the cat or replace it with a new one. Gutting the cat is way cheaper and it will run better. They also need to blow out the oil cooler or replace it. Insurance may help if you have it. Keep us posted.
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