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Old 06-08-2022, 08:22 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by 77Travco View Post
After crawling around under my 2017 Bounder 33C... The only way I can figure that the engine comes out is to remove the transmission and exhaust and then the engine can come backwards and down. It definitely isn't going out through the floor or the front... or straight down either.

computerguy - I realize it's easy to get on these forums and say what "I would do". You are into some serious money and it's your business but... As said before, the catalytic converter may have debris in it that will lead to other issues later. I would either gut the cat or replace it with a new one. Gutting the cat is way cheaper and it will run better. They also need to blow out the oil cooler or replace it. Insurance may help if you have it. Keep us posted.
No warranty/insurance. Yeah, I'm concerned about the converter. I'll have to ask the next time I speak to them. I thought they said they were planning on replacing the oil cooler. Possible they said they would just flush it.
The place I am having it done has been super cooperative with all my questions. They also seem knowledgeable. Hoping for a good outcome. Time will tell. In the meantime, Nebraska sure has some nasty storms to put up with while I am waiting. One storm already ripped a slide topper. That was the one that blew over a semi just 5 miles from where I am. 6 more weeks...
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Old 06-08-2022, 08:43 PM   #86
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The problem with the converter is it could be melted inside from raw fuel accumulating in it and catching fire.

I bet your exhaust is like mine, thereís a flange that bolts onto the converter just after the two header pipes meet. Unbolting that flange you should be able to see the honeycomb structure in the converter and tell if itís melted.
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Old 06-08-2022, 11:40 PM   #87
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No manufacturer is infallible. Even a very exacting and high-priced jet engine on an airline will occasionally fail with dramatic effect to itself and the aircraft. An engine failure is not an indictment of the maker, including Ford. In 1953 the transmission in my 1946 Nash failed. I once had a Renault that had a failure-prone charging system. While in college I built a different mount and installed a Chevy generator. Problem solved. In 2006 when a check spring collapsed in our Bounder's V-10, even with repair insurance engine replacement cost me about four grand. That was with close to 40,000 miles. Now, with 145,280 miles the Bounder that we have been driving for 22 years is still running well and everything still works. The point is that not everything is perfect but that is not necessarily an indictment against it but be informed. As an example, research cars and discover why buying a Fiat may not be a good idea.
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Old 06-08-2022, 11:59 PM   #88
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When the engine was replaced in my 2000 Bounder the removed the grill, bumper, plastic component into which the headlights are mounted, and the radiator/oil cooler. The air conditioner condenser was on flexible lines and wired up out of the way. after disconnecting everything attached to the engine it was hauled out through the front.

[Moderator Edit] With a new engine installed and running it is very easy for the shop to measure exhaust back pressure. That will tell you if there is debris in the exhaust system. In the process, you might even consider a new Banks full-flow exhaust system but Banks would use the existing converter.
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Old 06-09-2022, 06:10 AM   #89
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I would suggest replace the oil cooler. You can't guarantee all of the debris will be cleaned out by just flushing. Losing a second engine because of debris isn't worth it. Consider it just a little more insurance.
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Old 06-09-2022, 06:16 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77Travco View Post
After crawling around under my 2017 Bounder 33C... The only way I can figure that the engine comes out is to remove the transmission and exhaust and then the engine can come backwards and down. It definitely isn't going out through the floor or the front... or straight down either.

computerguy - I realize it's easy to get on these forums and say what "I would do". You are into some serious money and it's your business but... As said before, the catalytic converter may have debris in it that will lead to other issues later. I would either gut the cat or replace it with a new one. Gutting the cat is way cheaper and it will run better. They also need to blow out the oil cooler or replace it. Insurance may help if you have it. Keep us posted.
This is a 2015 engine so it will have pre-cat and post-cat sensors that monitor the effectiveness of the catalyst. Gutting the cat guarantees a check engine light and a code that says the cat isn't working. It's harmless to the engine to have the code unless the state you're registered in has emissions inspections, but the light is annoying and you'll never know from the CEL if another code arises that *isn't* harmless. Plus, it's probably illegal in all 50 states, and, with all due respect, I doubt the engine will run better. Reasonably modern systems are well-engineered and their cats don't offer much in the way of restriction.

I'd inspect the cat and replace if visual inspection shows it's necessary, then run the engine and see whether the ECM detects a problem with the cat and, again, repalce if necessary.
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Old 06-09-2022, 09:14 AM   #91
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I would suggest replace the oil cooler. You can't guarantee all of the debris will be cleaned out by just flushing. Losing a second engine because of debris isn't worth it. Consider it just a little more insurance.
This. Iíve had and am still around HP boats with blower motors and rule number 1 is, any motor failure that results in any metal particles, the oil coolers get replaced.
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Old 06-09-2022, 12:28 PM   #92
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When the engine was replaced in my 2000 Bounder the removed the grill, bumper, plastic component into which the headlights are mounted, and the radiator/oil cooler. The air conditioner condenser was on flexible lines and wired up out of the way. after disconnecting everything attached to the engine it was hauled out through the front.
That is not possible on the new style Bounder.

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This is a 2015 engine so it will have pre-cat and post-cat sensors that monitor the effectiveness of the catalyst. Gutting the cat guarantees a check engine light and a code that says the cat isn't working.
Nope it's just like my 2017. A single sensor in the center of the cat itself. Tricking the computer is easy with any of the readily available devices you can buy online or at an auto parts store. No check engine light because everything reads within correct parameters. (see pics below)
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Old 06-09-2022, 12:29 PM   #93
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Here's a fulltimer you tube couple that documented the V10 swap in their class A:





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Old 06-10-2022, 10:43 AM   #94
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thanks

thanks for the videos...
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Old 06-10-2022, 01:16 PM   #95
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Nope it's just like my 2017. A single sensor in the center of the cat itself. Tricking the computer is easy with any of the readily available devices you can buy online or at an auto parts store. No check engine light because everything reads within correct parameters. (see pics below)
Let me clarify that. There are 3 sensors total. One on each down pipe and one at the catalytic converter. The computer wants to see a difference between the before and after readings. There is more than one way to "trick" it. The device shown above is one way. Another way is to install a resistor at the rear sensor. These devices are readily available all over the place.
I get that some people want to keep the cat for various reasons. It is perfectly legal to replace a damaged cat with an aftermarket high flow unit which would be much cheaper.
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Old 07-08-2022, 01:16 PM   #96
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Update: DON'T use Jasper Engines!!!!

Well, I finally got the call I was dreading but yet expecting. The engine for the RV is not going to be here on the 12th as originally expected. I've been asking about it for the past 2 weeks. I have been pushing for an answer knowing an engine is not something that arrives via FedEx overnight. It was ordered and confirmed in May! So, not only is it not arriving Tuesday as promised and confirmed numerous times over the past few weeks, it's not available, AT ALL.
I am really at a loss for words. I feel defeated. I am not sure what to do. If you are thinking about ever using Jasper to supply parts the answer is simply DON'T.
https://www.facebook.com/jasperengines/
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Old 07-08-2022, 01:28 PM   #97
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Oh that sucks a big one. So what options do you have now? A used engine? Rebuilding yours will probably cost a fortune, if itís rebuildable.
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Old 07-08-2022, 07:47 PM   #98
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UPDATE: Ya know, sometimes I scratch my head and wonder how some businesses survive. I should have done this 7 weeks ago. Nothing more satisfying than taking the bull by the horns and getting stuff done! A couple calls and I am getting a rebuilt engine directly from Ford, THIS WEDNESDAY. Yep, it is costing me an extra $600. At this point who cares? To think I might have been able to make this happen 7 weeks ago makes me sad. I guess this is why I was known in my consulting career as someone who could always get things done no matter what obstacle came in my way. Laser focused.
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