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Old 01-01-2017, 08:52 AM   #1
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2016 35k Bounder decided not to start at Gas pump and now I'm stuck here

I'm really hoping someone can please help me. I'm traveling across the country and just finished the trip from Colorado to Fort Lauderdale. I stopped to get gas at Costco and filled up the tank and shut off the engine while I did it. When I went to start the engine nothing happened. One click sound happens but nothing else. The axillary jump does nothing. Tried to jump start it with cables from the tow truck and nothing happens. The tow truck had to move the RV to a safe place in Costco parking lot until a Ford store opens that roadside assistance can confirm will be able to fix the problem. What could the problem be? The engine and vehicle were running fine the whole trip. Can someone please help me it seems as though I'm stuck here until tomorrow and now my water pump decided not to turn on as well but that's another problem. I just want to get this pig running again if that is at all possible. Your help is much appreciated and happy New Year.
It is an f53 Ford Chassis with a V10 engine just in case you need to know.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:12 AM   #2
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Sorry for your misfortune, but at least you are at a Costco. Most likely your problem is related to the ignition switch. I would check each wire going in and make sure the connection is tight. Try to start it again.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:13 AM   #3
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Will do, thanks for the quick response.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:14 AM   #4
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The click is the stater solenoid kicking in but knot enough juice to turn the engine over.either a bad battery or bad connection hot or ground, probably ground if the water pump quit also since it should be on house battery not chassis.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:34 AM   #5
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Sometimes the starter brushes can stick and loose contact with the armature. You can try to tap the starter with a hammer or other solid object. You do not need to beat on it, just tap the side and end plate a couple of times.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:45 AM   #6
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Well give that a try.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:49 AM   #7
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There is a solenoid above the engine that controls the starter solenoid. Could be something going on there. That may be what you hear going click.

Follow the noise to find it.

This is only if you have dash lights and stuff working, when you turn the key.

To see it it's battery cable issue, turn on the headlights and watch them when you turn to start. If they go out, it's a battery or cable issue, not the solenoid.
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:52 PM   #8
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Check battery terminals, clean and reinstall,that is always my first place to look,second like already mentioned tap lightly on starter.

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Old 01-01-2017, 07:55 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by rapid rick View Post
Check battery terminals, clean and reinstall,that is always my first place to look,second like already mentioned tap lightly on starter.
I'd check the chassis ground connection. On a previous coach, mine broke after hitting a retread. Good luck and please let us know what it turns out to be. I'll put it into my lessons learned file!
Russ - USN SWO (ret) - 2018 Dutch Star 4369 Spartan Chassis a Road Glide CVO & Dyna Switchback in an Iron horse trailer or a Jeep Unlimited Alliance Valor 40V13 toyhauler (on order) with Harley CVO ROad Glide and Dyna Switchback in the garage, pulled by a F350 DRW
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Old 01-01-2017, 08:43 PM   #10
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If you have a volt meter, check to see if 12 volts is being applied to the small wire terminal on the starter while someone holds the key switch to crank. And also while trying to crank that voltage being applied to the big terminal is not dropping below 9 volts. Below 9 volts you have a bad connection or dead battery.

The starter has a large wire connection, that's what delivers the current/voltage to spin the starter. The starter also has a small wire connection, the small wire is what signals the starter to turn/off.

If the small wire is not getting the 12 volt signal to spin the starter you could put the ignition switch in run and use a piece of wire to jump between the big electric connector to the little electric connector.

Finally if you have more than 9 volts at the big terminal of the starter and 12 volts at the small terminal and the starter while holding the key to crank and the starter is not spinning you have a bad starter.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:22 PM   #11
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I second a few well placed not gorilla heavy on the side of the starter. If it does work don't depend on it to start again or maybe it will, but consider it starter replacement time.
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Old 01-02-2017, 05:24 AM   #12
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Check the gear selector and make sure you are in PARK. Turn the key on with foot on brake and move the gear shift out of Park and back into Park.
Also when you go to start it up, make sure your foot is on the Brake.
Water pump could be related if it's a common ground thing.
Does the generator start? does the radio work off the Chassis battery? Does the horn blow, the lights come on?
Take a look at these things and see. If none of your House 12v stuff works and none of your chassis 12v stuff works then the common factor is the AUX power switch, ground and possibly depending on setup the charging circuit for the chassis and the charging circuit for the house batteries.
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Old 01-02-2017, 12:01 PM   #13
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Update... waiting at a Ford Dealer after having it towed here only to be turned away. Apparently the service writer who confirmed they could take it was smoking Crack. Now we are waiting for Ford Roadside to find another Ford Store that can actually take it. Awesome.
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Old 01-02-2017, 12:07 PM   #14
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I had a starter with a bad segment that totally quit right if front of the house. Towed to a service center and they replaced the starter. This was on a 40' DP, total for starter was just over $1,000, tow (over $700) was covered by CoachNet.
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bounder, gas

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