Community Forums

TooTallWyo · 11-06-2020, 03:48 AM

Randalpho, sounds like you have already walked this path. When I read about a devise that would provide better information than those gauges, I was excited until I read in the following post it didn't work. BUMMER :(

TooTallWyo · 11-06-2020, 03:51 AM

House Husband, that for the info on the devise . .as I mentioned I was disappointed, but so it goes.
I did forward the info about fins per inch to the supplier and waiting to hear back
Again great info/comments from ALL who have assisted me in the 'journey'.
Like always I will keep everyone posted as I move forward. The service guy wasn't in yesterday and today may be the day.
Have a good'n
Thx again

sibe · 11-06-2020, 04:43 AM

a snap on, launch etc scan tool works on OBD 1 systems, there is a diagnostic plug in the harness, use an adapter or a two wire pin out,, it reads basic data and codes..

as far as those prices... YES the way it was figured, make little sense to me as a mechanic. unless customer wanted price to mix and match.. or they used generic pricing with not looking at labor overlap which is price gouging.. IMO

BUT Labor to get rad out is one large chunk.. Water pump is next large chunk..

Thermostat is not that bad once coolant is drained, Air cleaner /tubes removed etc..

That TC cover ( I mentioned) that the water pump sets in is maybe 1.5 hours more labor plus gaskets/crank seal kit etc.. BUT it will leak after being super heated,, maybe not now but later.. and all that labor must be redone including pulling the rad etc.. Spending 3k whats another 350 -500

MAKE SURE they do the small hose from water pump to oil cooler they are hard to get..

I SAY THIS BECASUE,, in my 94 I did the job twice.... DID a rad / hoses, clutch fan and about a year later that TC cover leaked... I drove it for almost 6k miles adding coolant after every weekedn trip.. then DID the job again..

MY 96 that I ran hot with only 29K on it.. Got the full treatment, I weekend and the second saturday to titty up..

The 94 had another 16-18K put on it after that and was sold with 195K+ 6 weeks ago and has been taken on 4 trips by new owners... Their mechanic looked at it and could not believe the wrk done and how good shape it was in... SOLD IT FAST becasue of of that..

IC2 · 11-06-2020, 06:08 AM

Someone noted above to do the timing chain and gears. A couple things about these parts - some years (and that year spread is hard to define) Ford used an 8-9 degree retard timing gear. You want a 'straight up' version for gas mileage as well as power. Also, a retarded gear set might cause the engine to run too hot.

Second, opt for a double roller timing chain. Big engine, big/strong valve springs. They last longer, don't stretch as much and are only a few bucks more then the single roller pieces. I doubt brand name makes much difference as most US brands have been made by Cloyes under contract.

For sure replace that little bypass hose if you are going into the cooling system. The distributor 'hovers' over it and adds to replacement frustration since it really should be removed.

A quick word about that 460 distributor. I had one case where it was frozen in place to the intake manifold. I needed to make up a couple jacking devices to get it out which in turn required a replacement.

The joys of owning an older vehicle

mr.tommy · 11-06-2020, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randalpho

I just checked and the 1996 Ford F53 uses Ford's EEC-IV system. Scangauge won't work on this application.

Looks like the F53 did not go to an OBDII connector until 1999.

Ya I know Ford didn't go to OBD II till 1999 BUT, On ScanGauge's website they do show their system will work on some Ford 1996 models that would have OBD I or a different setup by using maybe an adapter or something. I didn't look into all the particulars. I'd give them a call. I've found them very helpful in answering these type of questions. We have a ScanGauge and love it.

mpaton · 11-06-2020, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IC2

Someone noted above to do the timing chain and gears. A couple things about these parts - some years (and that year spread is hard to define) Ford used an 8-9 degree retard timing gear. You want a 'straight up' version for gas mileage as well as power. Also, a retarded gear set might cause the engine to run too hot.

Second, opt for a double roller timing chain. Big engine, big/strong valve springs. They last longer, don't stretch as much and are only a few bucks more then the single roller pieces. I doubt brand name makes much difference as most US brands have been made by Cloyes under contract.

This advice is for a much older engine than yours. All the fuel injected engines have the good chain and timing.

Kjon · 11-06-2020, 08:17 AM

I recall in the past radiators could be recited. The radiator tanks are removed and a new core is installed. Not sure if like shoe repair it has gone the way of the dodo bird. I wish you good luck 🍀

Kjon · 11-06-2020, 08:20 AM

I recall in the past radiators could be recored. The radiator tanks are removed and a new core is installed. Not sure if like shoe repair it has gone the way of the dodo bird. I wish you good luck 🍀

TooTallWyo · 11-13-2020, 04:57 AM

Wanted to give update on the repair of the ole girl. It will be 2 weeks tomorrow when I spent a beautiful night with a full moon alongside the road. Since that time, the service manager and I have chatted. I relayed to him some of the thoughts and concerns expressed here. He let me know that he didn’t have the answers to my questions and would have to get back to me, it has been 4 days now. I am hoping to have solid answers to questions and get her fixed at this shop. (which would be cheaper due to the cost towing to another shop)
As soon as I know the outcomes, I will let all of you great folks know.
Thx again for all the help and advise
2Tall

Roy-c · 11-13-2020, 05:23 AM

I would question the labor costs for some items. For instance they quoted $120 for the serpentine belt which would have to be removed and reinstalled to replace the water pump pulley. Sounds like they are adding redundant labor costs. I would ask for an itemized estimate. There should not be an additional labor charge for something that has to be done as part of another operation that you are already being charged labor for. There prices seem very high to me.

TooTallWyo · 12-11-2020, 05:03 AM

To everyone,
I would like to thank everyone for their thoughts, opinions and help with this mess. I was finally able to get it out of the shop for a negotiated cost of $3,450.00. I asked the service manager EXACTLY what happened or caused the problem his reply was " I don't know, I didn't write the WO up" and that was it. I asked if the radiator requested had the number of fins per inch as mentioned here, he didn't know but would have the parts guys call me. As of today, that still hasn't happened. I had requested all the old parts part which were to include the water pump, T-stat with housing, the belt tensioner, the radiator and the belts. I received everything above except the belts, belt tensioner. Those two items were replaced less than 500 miles prior. I may be rambling a lil bit here but there was an item on the repairs list for replacing suspension airline. This line is an additional 1/4"-3' long line from a small air bag between the house and the frame. It took me $2.50 and less than 15 minutes to repair. The shops estimate was $196.50.
Lastly, I didn't do a walk around inspection prior to paying and that was a huge mistake. They ripped the dog house carpet, greasy boot prints everywhere, under the hood, vacuum line broke, all the rubber weathersheild loose, missing AC caps etc. I did call and they will fix/repair/clean if I bring it back. Sorry for all the venting, I could go on and on but this is not the place for that.
Anyhow I wanted to let all the great folks here that helped out with this mess. We should be good for a year or two when we move up to the BIG BOYS TOYS. Have been looking for the 45-footer and retire. But that is another story.
Thx again to all!!!

eddndee · 01-02-2021, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TooTallWyo

To everyone,

I would like to thank everyone for their thoughts, opinions and help with this mess. I was finally able to get it out of the shop for a negotiated cost of $3,450.00. I asked the service manager EXACTLY what happened or caused the problem his reply was " I don't know, I didn't write the WO up" and that was it. I asked if the radiator requested had the number of fins per inch as mentioned here, he didn't know but would have the parts guys call me. As of today, that still hasn't happened. I had requested all the old parts part which were to include the water pump, T-stat with housing, the belt tensioner, the radiator and the belts. I received everything above except the belts, belt tensioner. Those two items were replaced less than 500 miles prior. I may be rambling a lil bit here but there was an item on the repairs list for replacing suspension airline. This line is an additional 1/4"-3' long line from a small air bag between the house and the frame. It took me $2.50 and less than 15 minutes to repair. The shops estimate was $196.50.

Lastly, I didn't do a walk around inspection prior to paying and that was a huge mistake. They ripped the dog house carpet, greasy boot prints everywhere, under the hood, vacuum line broke, all the rubber weathersheild loose, missing AC caps etc. I did call and they will fix/repair/clean if I bring it back. Sorry for all the venting, I could go on and on but this is not the place for that.

Anyhow I wanted to let all the great folks here that helped out with this mess. We should be good for a year or two when we move up to the BIG BOYS TOYS. Have been looking for the 45-footer and retire. But that is another story.

Thx again to all!!!

I hope the ‘ol girl is happy now. I had an engine replacement done in my ‘66 Chevy van last summer. What a hassle.
The shop I originally had it towed to was worthless. It just sat their while they ran other vehicles in and around it, adding ding’s and scratches. I finally, after 3 weeks, had it towed to another shop but it still took 3 months to get it back. Many of the replacement parts wouldn’t match up, then it ran hot! Fortunately, his shop shared it’s building with a guy who rebuilds radiators. That solved that problem and my van runs beautifully but I have more money into it than it is worth... sigh.

TooTallWyo · 07-31-2021, 11:26 AM

Well everyone,
We did get it back and drove it approx. 200 miles. During this time it was leaking a red-colored fluid and took 3 quarts in the tranny to keep it level. I contacted the shop and they stated they didn't do anything with the tranny line and take it to a tranny shop which I did. Ammco informed me that the leak was from the front of the oil pan and not part of the tranny parts or connections. So back to the original shop to have them fix that.
It has been 2 months and I was just informed that the leak is from the oil cooler line and now the rear main seal is also leaking. From what I have looked at it, appears that when they had to replace the water pump they did NOT remove the oil pan entirely and just loosened a few bolts, did the replacement, and put it back together. That is also what Ammco mentioned as a possibility.
Here are my questions:
Are there connections between the oil cooler and the radiator they replaced, that the shop broke, didn't get tight, or anything else? The oil cooler sits in front of the radiator if that matters.
Is it possible that when they did the latest repairs, they messed up the seal?
The amount of frustration is beyond my wildest imagination as well as the cost of all the repairs. Currently, the cost spent to get the ole gal running is approx $5500 and if can't explain to the shop they possibly caused the leaks then another $1000 or so.
Thanks again for all the excellent advice and suggestions.

Bonnieb0619 · 07-31-2021, 12:45 PM

I have a 1990 Ford f53 on a 460 chassis but I'm trying to find a chassis operator's manual and I don't know if there's anyone out there I know they have them for a 1994 but I don't know if that's okay to use can anybody help me cuz if it's good to use a 94 Chelsea owner manual for a 1990 I'm all for it I just didn't know if it's the same thing I know it's only 4year difference. I'm just into this and I don't want to screw nothing up somebody help please