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Old 05-24-2021, 08:19 PM   #281
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Progress made, at least one step forward now

So I eased back under again this evening, with the wiring diagrams, and disconnected the sensor. Taking another look at the wiring on the sensor connection that Subford posted in an earlier post, it was obvious that one of the wires I spliced is actually the HEGO wire. Not a heater wire. So with engine running, I measured voltage against the black wire, found the one with 12 volts. And sure enough I had them spliced backwards. Which explains why I had a 0.00 voltage reading immediately upon connecting to the sensor. I was grounding HEGO through the sensor heater.

I re-spliced correctly and ran the test Bruce suggested. On the Actron I have .06 with the circuit open, about .02 or some such grounding to orange, and when with one hand I touched 12 volt positive and with the other hand I touched the HEGO wire I got about 1.2 volts. So we know now the PCM and wiring is responding.

I reconnected O2 sensor, and the Actron showed the voltage at about 1.2, dropping on down to about .6 varying slightly to .74.

I ran the KOER test, engine hot, idling in my driveway and now I now longer have a 172 error code. This is a step forward because Iíve always had that error when doing KOER. Instead I get a 311 thermactor code, which is probably because I donít have clamps on the air pump hoses after my last test.

Iíll pick up some clamps in town tomorrow and retest.

Speculating now: Until I drive a few miles down the road Iím not able to hope this is resolved because Iím still quite sure those wires were not chewed through when I purchased the vehicle. I believe I would have found them or if not the mechanic would have when we each changed the O2 sensor way back then. However, I suppose a slight possibility exists that the initial problem was that I had marginal fuel pump pressure and once that was fixed the error code of course continued to persist because the wires to the sensor were chewed into.
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Old 05-25-2021, 11:42 AM   #282
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oxygen sensor

All right! Is the oxygen sensor lead chewed up or the main engine harness? The tests should be done with the engine running, you will see and feel a definite change in the sound and rpm of the engine.
Key on, engine off test, check at engine harness. 12 volts on one pin , ground on the pin right beside it. .5 volts on the oxygen sensor pin, and the sensor ground is right beside it. If your readings are not close, try grounding right at the battery neg terminal.
As far as code 311, just ignore it, unless you can luck up and find a bad vacuum connection or another wiring problem The parts are no longer available. Mine does the same thing- the light comes on and goes off occasionally. If it gets real bad I may just put a cheater box in, but right now it doesn't bother me very much. Best of luck, you are a patient man!
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Old 05-25-2021, 07:55 PM   #283
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The chewed damage is in the main engine harness.

I donít believe Iíll get 311 once I put hose clamps back on the air pump hoses. Because I never had that before, except when testing with the hoses off.

**I didnít hear any engine rpm change (other than the slight surging it does at idle) when I put the sensor wire to ground or did the touch my hand to positive.** I did however see the changes show up on the Actron datastream.

Iím not getting .5 volts on the sensor wire. It was .06. Measured against the ground pin right beside it. But I may have measured that KOEO. I will also test using a ground straight to the negative terminal on the battery.
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Old 05-25-2021, 10:06 PM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucenem View Post
The tests should be done with the engine running, you will see and feel a definite change in the sound and rpm of the engine.
But if the thing is operating in open loop, should I expect any change in engine sound/rpm?
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Old 05-28-2021, 09:45 AM   #285
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Good news!

This morning I put clamps on the air pump hoses, added a little fluid to the Jack reservoir and took a short test drive.

The Actron reads the datastream fast enough that at times I can catch the O2 voltage switching back and forth. It predominately is reading 0.7x. I also saw it drop into closed loop and back into open several times. As you all have stated it mostly runs open loop.

I didnít focus on the idling though I believe I still have a slight idle surge but it isnít significant enough that I will spend much energy on it.

I probably drove 10-12 miles, a longer trip will really tell the tale, but it would have set error codes early in that test before so I feel fairly confident the 172 code is gone now.

Was it the pump? Or just the mouse-chewed wires? As I speculated earlier, probably both. Iíll carry the old pump as a spare but Iím sure not going to reinstall it just to get the answer. . . .

Iíll probably hunt down my old soldering iron and solder that one sensor wire rather than rely on a crimp connection since we are talking such small voltages being measured. Then waterproof the splices, install new wire loom and secure it properly. Also time to reinstall the fresh water tank, and button the ďhatchesĒ back down in the rear where I installed the fuel pumps.

I really want each of you to know how much I appreciate your help and explanations of how this system works. It has been a real learning experience for me. Thank you all very, very much.
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Old 05-30-2021, 12:26 AM   #286
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Marvin,
Great news


You likely have your biggest problem solved!


Possible warning about the O2 sensor wires. As I remember, some of them are nichrome and impossible get solder to adhere to. If they look shiny silver, they are probably nichrome. You can't solder it, but can weld it, otherwise mechanical pressure, like crimps or bolts will work.
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Old 05-30-2021, 07:26 AM   #287
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Of course I wonít know for sure until I take it on a longer drive, but I really expect it is finally cured.

Thanks for the warning. This is on the chassis side wiring of the connector but I do remember thinking those wires looked kind of funny. Iíll just waterproof my crimp connection and button things up. Iíll make a mental note of that as being a possible future failure point if I start having trouble again.
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Old 05-31-2021, 08:55 AM   #288
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Well done Marvin. Your persistence paid off! I hope you're now able to start having fun driving it.
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Old 06-02-2021, 07:02 PM   #289
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Could not have done it without the combined help and encouragement of each one of you. Iíll report back after a more lengthy trip. Hopefully this issue is permanently gone.

Thank you all very much.
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Old 06-03-2021, 08:24 AM   #290
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Glad you found and fixed your problem. Way to hang in there. I’m a believer or persistence always pays off.


Trying to learn something while following this post so I have this in my pocket incase I or someone else ever has this issue. I’m thinking more and more of prevention about my RV these days was hen I read posts like these, but you can’t stop the inevitable sometimes.


Question I ask myself and everyone out there; Why don’t mice chew on wires in cars as much as they do in RV’s? I’m guessing it’s 2 reasons; 1. They are attracted by the smells of food. 2. RV’s sit a long time without running/usage.

After 6 years of RVing, I finally started to do some mice prevention about a year ago. I throw in those lemon grass scented packs, and I purchased 2 electronic mice alarms that install in the engine compartment. They turn off when engine is running to save battery power. I’ve noticed the double A batteries last about 2-3 months when RV is in storage. But when we half time I get 4-6 months if we regularly travel for 2-3 months during a 6 month stent.



I’d like to know what others do to prevent these little creatures from causing issues ?
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Old 08-07-2021, 04:32 PM   #291
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Update: Repair remains repaired!

Just returned from a 1100 mile trip. Never a check engine light! So thankful for all the help you all gave on this thread.
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Old 09-25-2021, 10:48 PM   #292
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