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kevindale · 11-28-2022, 06:37 AM

I've replaced the crank & cam sensors, replaced the PCM " FLASHED & PROGRAMMED ", i have power at the injectors & coils, but no ground pluse, and no CEL light at all.

The main PCM Ground appears to be ok, any ideas of where to look for a possible wiring issue besides the harness at the coils & injectors ? I am at a loss, any help is much appreciated. Could it possibly be the Micro Relay ? I've tried switching the main Relay, still the same issue

GypsyR · 11-28-2022, 08:39 AM

My first thought would be to use an OBD II scanner with data capability. That way you can crank the engine over and see what the computer sees. Like no crank sensor signal for random example. You can replace that crank sensor as many times as you want and it will never work if a mouse has chewed the wires in two back somewhere you can't see. If you could see on a scanner that there is no crank signal and you've already changed the sensor THEN you'd know to start looking at the wiring for that particular component. For example.
You can't just semi-randomly replace parts and hope to luck into a fix. You can buy the whole parts store and a whole new engine and still not fix it if something like the example rodent damaged wires has happened.

avfordguy · 11-28-2022, 09:05 AM

Where your at, stop replacing parts ! You can't guess. There was a TSB a while back that addressed pcm ground issues, you may want to Google it.
The BEST scanner is FORSCAN ( program) and you will need a good obd2 blue tooth adapter, forscan as far as I know is the only home user program that starts with a simple KOEO check. That is key on engine off. That tests the electrical circuits and sensors BEFORE engine crank, it is a very valuable tool to use in your issue without it your going to spend hours tracing each circuit.
FORSCAN mimics the Ford IDS system that the dealers have.

THenne1713 · 11-29-2022, 02:35 PM

I have read that power to injectors and coils is continuous and PCM controls the ground side switching? If RELAYS involved, I would first experiment w/ swapping relays around? You do have RELAY #6 PCM RELAY. ... and a (plug-in?) PCM Diode? Good Luck

jeff1978 · 11-30-2022, 06:07 PM

I had a similar issue with my 99 adventure and turned out to be the PCM got shorted by an aftermarket ignition coil. Have you scanned the codes and if so are receiving any P0351-P0360? I did not want to throw parts at it and called a friend at a Ford dealer and they said that if it's not a ground issue or relay issue it would be the PCM. They were correct! I sent the PCM to a shop in south Florida and diagnosed that coil #2 fried bank 2 and would only allow the left side of the motor fire. The place I sent it to was autocomputerperformance.com they are in Margate FL. Very knowledgeable and knew the issue right away. Hope this helps!

THenne1713 · 12-01-2022, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevindale

I've replaced the crank & cam sensors, replaced the PCM " FLASHED & PROGRAMMED ", i have power at the injectors & coils, but no ground pluse, and no CEL light at all.

The main PCM Ground appears to be ok, any ideas of where to look for a possible wiring issue besides the harness at the coils & injectors ? I am at a loss, any help is much appreciated. Could it possibly be the Micro Relay ? I've tried switching the main Relay, still the same issue

WHICH MAIN RELAY did you SWAP?

kevindale · 12-09-2022, 03:47 PM

IT IS FIXED, AND Here was the Issue, and this TSB Needs updated, as it controls a WHOLE LOT MORE than shifting issues. Pin #51 Black Wire With White Stripe, 1 of the 7, involved in this Fix, Controls the Ground Circuit to The ECM Relay, Which In Turn The Fuel Pump Relay, Had NO CEL LIGHT AT ALL, and OBDII Port was Dead, and it also causes The MAF Sensor to have an Erratic Reading

Thanks Everyone

https://www.1999southwind.com/f53-tr...-and-2nd-gear/

THenne1713 · 12-09-2022, 10:26 PM

So was the PIN loose, corroded, or wire had rodent damage, or ??

kevindale · 12-10-2022, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THenne1713

So was the PIN loose, corroded, or wire had rodent damage, or ??

I did not remove the Pins, as described in the TSB, I Simply cut it above the Factory Splice, approximately 6" from the ECM plug. Just to see if it was going to work, I temporarily just used a Wire nut to Re Attatch the 7 Black & White wires with a 1' Long piece of 10 gauge Black wire, with a 1/4" Eyelet, I Also used my Original ECM.

I just sunk a Self Tapper about 1" below the Original mounting Hole, Cleaned Both holes to Bare Metal and Re Connected all 3 Leads, 2 Original back to the Original Hole, and my Fix Wire in the New Hole, it must have 2 separate mounting holes, as mentioned in the TSB, apparently Pin #51 Had A Break in it Somewhere, Honestly it may have just been a Bad Connection at the Original Bolt Location, as it WAS NOT bare Metal, it was Black Paint, but I just went on with the TSB as this thing did always Shift hard anyhow. It'll be spring before I Drive this thing again, but I'll report back as to wether it Impoved the Shifting.

I'm going to go back in and solder everything up today, and Re Mount the ECM and put the Dr Side Seat back in, THANK GOD this worked, but yes they REALLY need to update that TSB, as it is for ALOT more than just Erratic Shifting Issues, and they should point out each Pin # and their Purpose.

Infact when I get time, I'm going to look up each of the 7 Pins Involved, and Post an Updated DIY TSB, with Pin #s And Purposes for Each Wire.

kevindale · 12-10-2022, 12:02 PM

After contacting the Publisher of the TSB for The Erratic Shifting Issue, he added my notes for the ECM Relay Ground to it as Well, hopefully this helps someone out.

I also started a new thread with the info as well.

kevindale · 12-25-2022, 12:37 PM

Happy to Report, The Old Fleetwood Flair Lives On, has Started up the last 2 Days in -20° Weather, Generator Started, Furnace Lit and was and Is, our Back Up Shelter for Emergency during the winter here in Ohio