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Old 06-10-2023, 11:54 AM   #1
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A/C Ford V10 Chasis

Hi, i am havoing issues with the AC unit for the engines side of the coach staying working. it will come on but then will shut off whenever it likes and will not turn back on using knobs. at the tim it does not work niether will the Jesen radio and camera system.
I need help, wife is miserable.
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Old 06-10-2023, 12:07 PM   #2
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You need to state the model and year of your coach to get a relevant answer.
Also, post here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/
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Old 06-10-2023, 12:16 PM   #3
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You also need to be specific as to what you mean when you say it won't "stay working" and "will come on but then will shut off." Are you referring to the blower/fan or does that keep working but the air isn't being cooled?


Pretend you're speaking to a technician that's going to charge you $200/hour and you want him to have as much detail as possible.
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Old 06-10-2023, 12:43 PM   #4
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Your dash A/C requires 12 volt power to operate the compressor clutch as well as power the blower fan. Since you say the radio and camera quits at same time, you have an electrical issue to trace. Either the 12 volt supply or a common ground to those circuits. I would start at the fuse panel. Look for a poor connection. It is possible they may have used a circuit breaker in place of a fuse. That could be on at times and tripped other times.
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Old 06-10-2023, 04:21 PM   #5
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What you describe could be a low refrigerant problem. The low pressure switch is shutting the system down.


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Old 06-11-2023, 09:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
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What you describe could be a low refrigerant problem. The low pressure switch is shutting the system down.


Richard
There is insufficient information to go anywhere near that as a "diagnosis". A low refrigerant charge usually manifests as compressor clutch short-cycling along with inadequate cooling on these Fords.
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Old 06-12-2023, 09:44 AM   #7
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There is insufficient information to go anywhere near that as a "diagnosis". A low refrigerant charge usually manifests as compressor clutch short-cycling along with inadequate cooling on these Fords.
May I assume you have a refrigerant transition and recovery license and have worked in the field for many years, such as I have?
What I stated is possible under certain charge conditions.

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Old 06-12-2023, 12:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
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May I assume you have a refrigerant transition and recovery license and have worked in the field for many years, such as I have?
What I stated is possible under certain charge conditions.

Richard
Yes, along with electrical, electronic controls, hydraulics, rheumatics, all for four and a half decades. I learned a very long time ago to think from a "system-level" perspective when troubleshooting.

I also learned along the way that if an issue is not already described in technical terms, it needs to be clarified so it can be understood clearly by a technical person, not in lay terms that can be quite "sloppy" and open to multiple interpretation or even guessing.
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Old 06-12-2023, 02:10 PM   #9
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While the refrigerant charge level may well be an issue. In OP's case, every time the A/C shuts down, so does the radio and a camera. Knowing that makes me more suspicious of an electrical power or ground fault affecting all three systems. Think charge level should be a secondary diagnosis.
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Old 06-12-2023, 05:09 PM   #10
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AC issue

I am new and apologize for lack of I formation on my coach.
We have a 2015 Thor Ace motor coach with a V10 triton engine. We have had it since 2014 purchased new. I appreciate responses to at least check the refrigerate level.
I did have an electrical issue in the past that turned out to be the plug the connects my toad to the coach which caused to lights to now shut off once turned on.
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Old 06-12-2023, 05:11 PM   #11
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Thanks will surely check refrigerant.
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Old 06-13-2023, 03:33 PM   #12
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History

we purchased our 2015 Thor A.C.E. motor coach brand new. about a year ago my wife and i chose to convert the exterior lights to LED for the tail lights, side markers,roof lights as well. i was told it would be a plug and play type set up.
we changed out all lights. Once they we installed is when i encountered the lights would not turn on or off from the driver seat. I was told it was the switch on the dash. purchased a new switch and had installed and they worked for a short time. At one point, it was like a ground because the lights could be turned on but then, wouold now trun off and required me to disconnect the engine battery to shut down the lights.
During this time is when i started having issues with the AC Fan shutting off and the blower woud not work, at some point in my driving it would start blowing again. Of course when i wouold take it in, i wouold be told it was a fuse. i do know how to check the fuse on the fuse box under the dash, at one point i purchased relays that are under the hood in the Junction Box.
There are times that the AC Blower does not work and the radio will work and times it will not. My last trip to a RV Dealer was when the Lights would not come on at all from the switch on the dash, to be charged for the replacement of the Toad connector on the rear of my coach.
On our recent tripwe started our jpourney with the Fan Blowing and radio working and as we drove down the road the Fan stopped and the Radio went silent. this past weekend took it to have tires inspected with no AC, and during my return trip the Blower started blowing nice cool air and the radio came on and the cameras worked.
I hope this is clarity and specific enough so that you will have a idea of my journey the last year.
So, any help or guidance you can provide i am willing to listen and will share the results of the actions taken by my upon your suggestions.
i am willing to try anything to make it run and function as it once did.
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Old 06-13-2023, 05:53 PM   #13
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Since all your troubles seem to have started with the change to LED lighting, how about going back to incandescent bulbs? I suggest this as a test to see if any problems still exist after the LED's are gone. If everything works normally with incandescent bulbs, then let's troubleshoot the LED issue.

LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. The key word being diode. A diode is an electrical equivalent of a one way check valve. It allows current flow in one direction and blocks it in the other. Incandescent bulbs are not polarity sensitive. They work the same no matter how they are connected to 12 volts. LED's are polarity sensitive. Possibly one of your light fixtures has wiring or ground issues. Your rig is new enough, it may have CAN Controller Area Network, rather than simple switching. I could discuss CAN in more detail if you were interested.

Try swapping back the bulbs. Be sure all fuses are good. See if normal operation returns.
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Old 06-14-2023, 10:55 AM   #14
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This is a long shot but on the older Ford's your symptoms sounds like the ignition switch. The ignition switch going to the crank position was spring loaded, after releasing from the crank position, the key would default back to the run position.

What happened was the ignition switch was sticking internally and sometimes it did not fully return to the run position. There are multiple contacts inside the switch to carry the loads to various circuits and some accessory items may or may not function.

Then again it could be bad ignition switch internal contacts.
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