Community Forums

johnsonjm209 · 10-23-2011, 05:54 PM

I have a 2003 HR w/a Ford V10 gasser.
Do any of you use 12 volt battery maintainers on your chassis battery when you put it up for a few months in the winter?
I looked at some on an automotive site and they suggest that is good for boats,etc., but they do not mention an auto. I don't think that matters though.
I have seen them in the 1v vs 2v models and wonder which would be applicable.
I don't want to take it out for the winter and I want it to stay up to snuff.
I plug in my m/h for a few winter months, but it does not maintain the charge on the chassis battery. I guess that I would to hardwire the charger into a 110 outlet and then put the alligator clips on the battery.In turn when I am under way I would disconnect the battery connectors.

Any comments?

Shadowcatche · 10-23-2011, 06:33 PM

Unless you are using an AGM battery, absolutely you should. Take a look at Battery Tender.

rgvtexan · 10-23-2011, 08:19 PM

I have had good luck with the $5 ones from harbor Freight. I have 10 plus batteries in storage over the winter and they are all charged come spring. On the coach which goes south I plug a maintainer into the outlet on the outside and run the cable under the compartment door to the batteries. Working good for the last few years. K.I.S.S principle.

garym114 · 10-23-2011, 08:30 PM

Are the chassis batteries next to the coach battery? If they are just clip the positive of the chassis to the positive on the coach. Makes it all one big, happy battery.

jfran304 · 10-23-2011, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadowcatche

Unless you are using an AGM battery, absolutely you should. Take a look at Battery Tender.

I have an AGM battery and I am using a Battery Tender. Why do you say not to?

The instructions on the Battery Tender says it is ok. It does say not to use it on dry cell batteries.

Jon

Shadowcatche · 10-24-2011, 03:03 AM

An AGM battery has a very slow rate of self discharge and really does not need a battery tender unless there are phantom loads i.e. radio or TV (even when off) that will draw it down. What I am saying is there is no need for it not that there is a problem using one. This is one of the reasons I went with an AGM battery.

johnsonjm209 · 10-24-2011, 08:11 AM

Thanks for all the input. I guess i'll go with the "Plus" which is $48.95 on Amazon. I see that I can also run an extension cord from the 110 outlet in the RV to power the Tender if the wires aren't long enough.

Just another example of the kind of help that is on this site.

ga traveler · 10-24-2011, 08:30 AM

I use a battery minder. The battery minder uses a pulse charge to break up sulfate on the plates. A customer gave me a $250.00 battery that was sulfated so bad it would not work. It took about six months, but the battery minder finally cleaned it up enough to use. I have been using it now for four years with no problems. I keep the batteries in the motorhome with a battery minder hooked up, all winter.

mr300ce · 10-24-2011, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garym114

Are the chassis batteries next to the coach battery? If they are just clip the positive of the chassis to the positive on the coach. Makes it all one big, happy battery.

I'm plugged in to shore power all the time. This is what I did.

Posi clipped to posi on 1 6v batt, neg clipped to neg on other 6v batt. That way its 12v to the 12v chassis batt.

Now on-board charger keeps everything up, without harm to any.

jfran304 · 10-24-2011, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadowcatche

An AGM battery has a very slow rate of self discharge and really does not need a battery tender unless there are phantom loads i.e. radio or TV (even when off) that will draw it down. What I am saying is there is no need for it not that there is a problem using one. This is one of the reasons I went with an AGM battery.

Thanks for the clarification.

The AGM battery I had installed this summer must have not been fully charged because it went dead while the coach was in storage. I had only driven the coach from the battery shop to the house (5 Miles). Since I had the Battery Tender I just hooked it up and left it to make sure it didn't get drained again.

Jon

DriVer · 10-24-2011, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnsonjm209

I guess that I would to hardwire the charger into a 110 outlet and then put the alligator clips on the battery.In turn when I am under way I would disconnect the battery connectors.

You may want to read the 2 Blog entries I wrote. There maybe something there that will help you .....
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Assured Automotive Power - BatteryMINDer Model 12248
BatteryMINDer Installation - Finishing Touches

puttin · 10-24-2011, 03:05 PM

You won't have to deal with any cords, settings, etc. with Trickle-Start. I have absolutely no problems since installing this two years ago.

Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer

DriVer · 10-24-2011, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puttin

You won't have to deal with any cords, settings, etc. with Trickle-Start. I have absolutely no problems since installing this two years ago.

puttin, I do see that there are cords that attach the device to the battery. Which cords are you specifically talking about that are absent?

In regard to setting the Battery-Minder it can offer the operator flexibility and you can customize charging voltages and battery types.

The previous Battery Minder product that I used plugged directly into an outlet and it has two leads that attach to the battery. This was a 1.33 Amp charger maintainer de-sulphator that is also very good for use over extended periods of time.

The new bigger unit I am currently using is just more flexible.
·

I purchased both of these devices from www.rvupgrades.com.

puttin · 10-24-2011, 03:58 PM

DriVer,

The cords are just the battery leads- they are permanently connected so there's no need to mess with anything each time you replenish the chassis batt. This has been a great system for me and I never have to plug anything in!