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Waiter21 · 07-10-2018, 04:27 PM

I knew I had some broken exhaust studs when I bought this last year, so I decided to tackle it.

I had 6 broken, I broke 6 more trying to remove them. This is going to be a bear...

I tried heat, welded nuts, etc, they are in there hard.. I broke 4 using the extractor. so it looks like its going to be drill time..

HEADERS- I ordered a set of DNA long headers ($350) for a F250/F350.. They arrived today so I did a test fit to make sure there wern't any issues..
They fit great, the only problem will be I need to make a about 2 ft extension to connect the headers to the existing exhaust pipe.

expo · 07-10-2018, 09:59 PM

Mine started leaking a few years ago due to a broken stud and I was procrastinating getting it fixed since it didn’t seem to be getting worse. Heading to La. shortly afterwards it started roaring. 4 broken studs, 2 each side, then the next day there was 7. I figured as they broke the manifold warped a little more causing the next one to snap. The studs were thin due to rusting. I was lucky to find a muffler shop willing to take it on and almost $3500 and a week later I had new manifolds installed and back on vacation. 17 studs had to be drilled out @ $100 per hole the worker sitting on a bucket in the wheel wells. I am grateful he took his time and didn’t screw it up and have the head$ removed.

Waiter21 · 07-11-2018, 06:36 AM

Expo, I had 6 that were broken, two were very obvious because the nuts were missing. The other four, they had broken just below the head, and the nuts and the broken part were still in the manifold, so they looked OK. When I touched them, with the socket, they fell off. I suspect rust was holding the broken stud and nut to the manifold.

I broke the other six while attempting to remove them. I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve before I get the drill. (not looking forward to this...)

DNA HEADERS

In spite of the big frustration with the broken studs, I got a little re-energized last night.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-1999-20...53.m2749.l2649

The DNA headers were delivered yesterday. They were listed as fitting on a F250 / F350 ($270). The manufacture didn't know if they would fit an F53. So I bought them anyway and was going to return them (minus 20% restock) if they didn't fit..

I mounted them up last night with a couple bolts, NO PROBLEMS -- They cleared everything, They look OK, welds look OK etc. These aren't $1200 BANKS, but we'll see what happens..

Two notes for the pipes..

1) The oil dipstick needs to get removed from the pan and get routed between the pipes. I'll probably slide a larger tube over the existing tube to act as a heat shield..

2) I'll need to make a exhaust pipe extension, the existing exhaust pipe is now about 24 inches to short. I'm still thinking this.. One of the theories of broken studs is the exhaust system basically hanging off of the manifolds and causing a big stress.. If I had a short "flex pipe" that connected the headers to the exhaust system, that would eliminate that stress..

The rear studs seems like they are the ones that break first, so this kind of supports the theory. I just checked on flex pipes, Since I need to make a new pipe anyway, I'll probably add a short flex to the section that will bolt to the header flange.

Ndrorder · 07-11-2018, 06:48 AM

Kroil penetrating oil works wonders. Tapping the ends of the studs with a hammer will sometimes break the bond to the block.

expo · 07-11-2018, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ndrorder

Kroil penetrating oil works wonders. Tapping the ends of the studs with a hammer will sometimes break the bond to the block.

I’ve had good luck with Kroil also but not when your manifold studs have rusted down to 3/16 thick. It’s a great powder solvent so it cleans up dirty range guns in a jiffy.

Crankshaft · 07-12-2018, 04:31 AM

If I have to ever replace my exhaust manifolds I'm getting one of these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ya8fxm89jk

House Husband · 07-12-2018, 06:24 PM

Those of us with headers on older 460s find a heat shield is required on the left side for emergency brake cable and shifting cable. I see Banks installs a left side heat shield on their headers and includes a starter heat shield. You may want to consider making heat shields.

Richard

Waiter21 · 07-14-2018, 07:06 PM

URGH --- Spend 4 hours drilling and taping one stud.. I'm convinced that none of them are going to come out easy.. Every stud is in there hard. The ex outs wont budge them and I don't want to break off a drill bit or ez out

With 12 to go, its risky, so I decided to pull the heads and take them to the shop to do it..

I started taking stuff apart tonight, If all goes well I should be able to have them off tomorrow.

I'm not really upset about this, in fact, it will answer a couple questions and provide some piece of mind.. The engine only has 60k miles, I'll probably do a valve job, install new stem seals.. I'll also replace the plastic chain guides but probably wont replace the chains.. And of course new head gaskets and intake seals..

Waiter21 · 07-15-2018, 09:27 AM

Got most of the wiring, tubes, hoses, etc removed from the top. Took about an hour. ready to pull the intake manifold.

Main harness iis ready to remove but got one wire from the the main engine harness that disappears under the A/C compressor, I suspect thats the crank position sensor. I need to unbolt the A/C compressor from the engine to get at the chain cover anyway. I don't think I need to break any of the A/C lines, just remove the bolts and swing it out of the way.

Also need to remove the fan and shroud, This should give me plenty of room to get to the timing chains.

OK, breaks over, back to work. Its hot and humid today... WHEW...

Waiter21 · 07-15-2018, 12:04 PM

Break time, MAN ITS HOT OUTSIDE...

COPs are off and marked as to what cylinder. #6 had some marks on it looks like arching.. (no misfirtes codes set).

Fan is off, shroud is off, idlers and tensioner is off, crank bolt is removed ( pulley is still on, probable need to wack it with a hammer a couple times..)

I thought I had the tool to remove the fuel lines.. its not the same as the fuel filter..

Russ Silber · 07-15-2018, 12:07 PM

Had local shop do exhaust studs. Was very lucky no frozen studs. All came out with mini vice grip. Total cost 350 bucks. Owner said they were lucky. Let soak overnight in penetrating oil. .just changed all radiator hoses on 1999 F53 Dutchstar.took about 2 hours not that hard. Buy spring clamp remover. Replaced clamps with ss screw clamps. Refilled with new antifreeze ran engine. All great. Changed oil and gen oil and filters. Getting ready for NewEngland trip end of July.
Good luck on project.[emoji46]

Waiter21 · 07-15-2018, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Was very lucky no frozen studs.

All of mine are frozen.. I hit them with PB blaster two or three times a day for the last three weeks.. Never had this much problem. One or two, yah, but not all of them...

ANYWAY -- Break time. Its 103 degrees out and its humid.. sweating like a pig..

Got the harmonic balancer off. Borrowed the little sleeve tool things from the neighbor and got the fuel lines unplugged. Intake manifold is off. Still need to loosen up the A/C compressor. Thats next after the break.

Waiter21 · 07-15-2018, 03:22 PM

Break time. A/C compressor unbolted. Main engine wire harness removed. Water pump pulley removed, Power steering pump unbolted and bracket removed. Cables to alternator removed.

There doesn't seem to be a need to remove the alternator or the water pump. But may remove them if they get in the way.

Starting to loosen front chain cover bolts.

NOTE - I noticed on this engine the two idlers were the same size.. On my 2001 F53, one was a little larger than the other.. I'll check a little later, but I thing this F53 has the two smaller ones.