Community Forums

TeJay · 09-05-2015, 11:27 AM

Maybe the CHF thread is getting a little crowded. Some changes and improvements have been made and some who wanted to do the CHF couldn't because they only had one hole in the elbow of the stabilizer bar (SB).

FIRST GROUP OF 5 PICS: This is a wooden mock up of a SB elbow that only has one hole drilled into the SB. If you build the adjustable plate it can be attached using this change in the original plate design.

The last two pictures in this first series shows a piece of wood setting on top. That's where you will drill the attaching holes for the SB link attachment

When drilling the two 5/16" bolt holes make sure the bolt spacing matches the width of the SB. Those bolts will aid in keeping the plate located.

I have not seen a SB with only one hole. There may be some other issues that might make it more difficult to attach the plate. Maybe the SB end is round or only flat where the link bolt goes through. If anybody has a one hole set up just that might present an attaching problem send pictures and something can be done so the plate can be modified and safely attached to the SB.

Keep in mind that the metal in the SB is spring steel and is very hard. It would be very difficult to drill it. I tried to drill a leaf spring once and couldn't.

SECOND GROUP OF 3 PICS: Here's the adjustable CHF plate. More details are on the original CHF thread.

TeJay

TeJay · 02-13-2016, 06:06 PM

Some folks have asked about doing the CHF when the SB only has one hole. I posted this solution 9/15 and since nobody has responded to it It's buried. Maybe this will bring it back up to the front somewhere so some may want to respond to it.

There is one modification I would make to this set up. The orange narrow strip of wood (metal on the real set up) I would not do. Actually I'd make another plate the exact same size and thickness so instead of just having the narrow strip it would be another plate. That would make it much stouter.

The final set up would look like the bottom picture showing the blue adjustable plate with two black bolts going through the SB. Yours would show another plate matching the one on the other side with three bolts. One going through the single hole in your SB and the other two going through both plates one on top and one below the SB. That will work just fine.

I can do a mock up and post pictures if anybody is interested.

TeJay

purrin along · 02-13-2016, 06:12 PM

Very nice.This is a great option.
Thanks.

ga80486 · 02-13-2016, 07:29 PM

Do you have a pattern of your blue bracket posted anywhere? It seems conceivable I could take that to a welding shop to have one made.

TeJay · 02-14-2016, 07:57 AM

ga80486,

Well I don't have a pattern but there are pictures and dimensions on the CHF thread. Go to the CHF thread and at the top right side that lists all the pages in a thread you'll see a diamond arrow pointing down. Click on that and enter page 226. That will take you to the correct page then go down to post # 3161, There are pictures with dimensions.

Here's some other locations with information.

Pg 225 post # 3138, Pg 233 post # 3257 & Pg 235 post # 3287 If you have any other questions just PM me.

I'm still thinking if one is going to make the plates to keep the SB level it is just as easy to drill a few more holes in an ARC so you can adjust the amount of sway control you want. Nobody knows if the CHF is to much because until you make an adjustable plate you only have two choices: stock and CHF. Every coach will respond somewhat differently to the CHF based on all the variables. Some are saying that the ride is to harsh.

I'm happy with the sway control I just want to fine tune it. I'll have my rear adjustable plates done when my backs gets better and when the weather warms up above 40 degrees.

TeJay

TomMiller · 03-06-2016, 06:57 AM

Tejay... Could you please enlighten me as to what the difference is between a rear SB and a rear Trac bar. Are they different products designed to solve different problems? Thx

twinboat · 03-06-2016, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomMiller

Tejay... Could you please enlighten me as to what the difference is between a rear SB and a rear Trac bar. Are they different products designed to solve different problems? Thx

A Track bar keeps the back end from turning like a weather vane. " YAW "

A sway bar keeps you from leaning like a tree in a strong wind. " ROLL "

TeJay · 03-06-2016, 02:42 PM

Tom,

twinboat is correct as far as the TB and SB. They each do a different job. That said, when your coach is hit with a wall of wind from an approaching semi it will move laterally (YAW TB). It will also sway (SB) because the semi's wind hits the top of the coach which causes sway. They really work together

YAW is also something that an airplane has to do when landing in a cross wind. Rudder control heads the front of the plane into the wind. The TB basically ties the frame and suspension together so there is less effect from the side wind. If you don't have the TB the back moves to the right (most semi's pass us on the left) and the front moves to the left (lateral twist).

You can build one for less than $50. There's a complete thread on how to do it.

TeJay

TomMiller · 03-07-2016, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

Tom,

twinboat is correct as far as the TB and SB. They each do a different job. That said, when your coach is hit with a wall of wind from an approaching semi it will move laterally (YAW TB). It will also sway (SB) because the semi's wind hits the top of the coach which causes sway. They really work together

YAW is also something that an airplane has to do when landing in a cross wind. Rudder control heads the front of the plane into the wind. The TB basically ties the frame and suspension together so there is less effect from the side wind. If you don't have the TB the back moves to the right (most semi's pass us on the left) and the front moves to the left (lateral twist).

You can build one for less than $50. There's a complete thread on how to do it.

TeJay

Thx for the info... I have added front and rear SUMO springs and a Safety Plus steering stabilizer on my new 2016 Fleetwood Storm 30L gas RV. However, I am still not comfortable with the push by trucks passing me and think it can be improved more still. The Sumo's made a signicant improvement in the rock & roll but the 30' Storm has quite a lot of overhang past the rear axle. I am leaning toward adding a trac bar. Can you send me a link to the area you mentioned to build one... My buddy is a metal fabricator, so we could probably make it with some good instructions. Thx to you and twinboat for answering. Tom

TeJay · 03-07-2016, 10:19 AM

Tom,

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/track...lt-242761.html

Here's the link to the DIY TB home built. It is 14 pages long but the build part is at the front.

After I made the first TB I decided to make some slight changes to it by extending the attaching point at the differential (DF) further away from the frame to reduce the ARC effect when the leaf springs move up and down.

Any questions just PM me.

TeJay