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Old 10-17-2015, 05:44 PM   #1
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Changing shocks at home

Well I finally ordered the infamous Koni Fsd shocks for my 2007 Ford F53 Damon. No need for a discussion if I did the right thing because I'm not so sure myself but my question now is this a straight forward project that I can do or does it need to go to a mechanic? My skills are average at best!
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:03 PM   #2
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I did my own shocks, no big deal. I did use a ratcheting tie down strap to compress and hold the shock the proper length to install the ones in the back. Make sure you have the RV properly supported on jack stands rated for the load. You might run it up on 2 X 8 blocks to get underneath easier.
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:10 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfregg View Post
Well I finally ordered the infamous Koni Fsd shocks for my 2007 Ford F53 Damon. No need for a discussion if I did the right thing because I'm not so sure myself but my question now is this a straight forward project that I can do or does it need to go to a mechanic? My skills are average at best!
rfregg
These 2 videos should give you a pretty good idea whether or not you can install your Koni Fsd shocks on your my 2007 Ford F53 Damon.

REPLACING FRONT SHOCKS:

and:
REPLACING REAR SHOCKS:

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Old 10-17-2015, 09:05 PM   #4
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When I have more time I'll watch the videos but i have a few concerns. I didn't jack my coach up at all. The shocks don't do anything going on or off and no matter where the two holes are the shock still needs to be compressed. I removed the bolts took the old shocks off. Put the top of the shock bolt in place. Put the bottom bolt through the shock and compressed it until the bolt slipped into the hole.

The real issue is getting the bolts to 250 ft/lbs of torque. Sorry to say I impacted them in place and used blue lock tight. I don't have a torque wrench that will go up to 250.

TeJay
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Old 10-17-2015, 09:34 PM   #5
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250 ft/lbs is required? Holy cow I'm not that strong! If they are on that tight I doubt I could get them off in the first place.
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Old 10-18-2015, 07:05 AM   #6
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Use lots of PB Blaster of such before trying to remove. I broke one wrench before getting mine loose. Couldn't get a impact wrench on the rear
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Old 10-18-2015, 07:34 AM   #7
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Thanks for the videos Mel. Feel more confident I can do it now when the time comes to replace them.
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Old 10-18-2015, 08:40 AM   #8
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250 ft/lbs is required? Holy cow I'm not that strong! If they are on that tight I doubt I could get them off in the first place.
As said, use some PB Blaster to loosen the rust, then use a lever. I didn't find it that difficult to remove the bolts on my 17 year old chassis.
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:06 AM   #9
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Yes thanks for the info. I was worried that the shocks would be under some sort of pressure but I can see that they are just in position and the spring holds the tension.
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Old 10-18-2015, 05:17 PM   #10
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The change itaelf should be easy - the torque is the issue and a loose shock bolt is a bad thing. Ours came drom the factory with loose bolts 😡. Hard to fi,d somebody with a torque wrench that goes that high....

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Old 10-18-2015, 05:48 PM   #11
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Not that many folks here on the forums have a TW that goes to 250 ft/lbs. Most will just hit it hard with a 1/2" impact wrench and use some blue lock tight. Typically I don't cheat that way but what's guy to do??? I could borrow one but I changed the shocks (4) about 4,000 miles ago and checked them the other day and they are still tight. I'll give it another go with a breaker bar and a cheater bar.

You could have a 50 amp coach that has those nice 22.5" wheels. They require 450 ft/lbs of torque for each lug. Ugg for sure. If that's what i had I'd probably have a bigger TW and a torque multiplier of some sorts. I've probably had my wheels off 8-10 times over the last 2 years. Almost glad we don't have the bigger wheels.

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Old 10-19-2015, 06:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
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The real issue is getting the bolts to 250 ft/lbs of torque. Sorry to say I impacted them in place and used blue lock tight. I don't have a torque wrench that will go up to 250.
TeJay
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250 ft/lbs is required?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
Not that many folks here on the forums have a TW that goes to 250 ft/lbs.
TeJay
O'reilly auto parts stores have a free tool loaner program: Rental Tools | O'Reilly Auto Parts
They loan out many different tools including this 30 To 250 Ft./Lbs. torque wrench: Performance Tool M199 - Torque Wrench | O'Reilly Auto Parts
(You do have to pay for the tool but your money is refunded when you return it).
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:58 AM   #13
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mel s,
Thanks for the reminder about O'Reilly tool loaner program. I had forgotten about that. When I was still teaching NAPA was my parts house. I was only allowed to have one monthly account for buying parts. I guess they didn't trust me. That took a special dispensation from the Pope which down in Baptist country is not easy to get. Early on I choose NAPA. Since retirement (2006) and the fact that NAPA has moved way on the other side of town I've started using O'Reilly.

It was then I found out about their loaner program. I will do as you suggested and rent the torque wrench. I'm sure they are OK but I will rest easier.

Thanks,
TeJay
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:15 PM   #14
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Harbor Freight has a 300lb 3/4, $79. Buy a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter if needed. I found many things on the front end need 250lbs.
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