Community Forums

tankerboy · 09-26-2009, 02:38 PM

I have 2000 Georgetown (Ford chassis V-10) I started it about two months ago with no problem. Today there is no power to anything, all my 12 volt works(but not the radio) and the booster switch wont do it and I couldn't jump it either. This is the first time I've had any problems.

Abnmarine · 09-26-2009, 03:52 PM

Does the gauges do anything when you turn the ignition on? Have you tested the engine battery? Any loose cables from the battery to the starter?

hoppers4 · 09-26-2009, 04:27 PM

My last two RVs had enough parasitic draw to drain the batteries in about a month. A Batteryminder will take care of the problem provided you can keep your RV plugged in full time.

tankerboy · 09-26-2009, 04:37 PM

Gauges do nothing, I've checked all the cables. I have no lights, horn, turnsignals. Could it be the starter relay or battrey disconnect solenoid?

"007" · 09-26-2009, 06:53 PM

Do you have a voltmeter to read the chassis battery, 2000 coach if original sounds like you need new battery or try to charge with battery charger.
A Battery Minder or TRIK-L -Start may help for long discharge periods.

Abnmarine · 09-27-2009, 04:48 AM

I agree. Use a voltmeter to test for 12 volt's with the chassis battery. Any less and you may have a dead cell. You could try recharging it.

If the battery tests fine then begin checking the cables. Ensure they don't have any corrosion. With a good battery and cables, you should at least have power to the guages and accesories.

wa8yxm · 09-27-2009, 10:39 AM

There are two posibilities.. Your symptom list by the way is very good

1: Some coaches have a chassis battery "Disconnect" usually a switch (mine is an ignition interlock) that if it's turned off.. What you have is EXACTLY what I'd expect

2: Dead chassis battery

3: Dirty connection, Chassis battery

SOME coaches, mine for example, if you are plugged in the house charger also keeps the chassis up to full.

Many (Most?) this is not the case

In fact there are two after-market products to fix this

More expensive: Xantrex Echo Charge
Less expensive: Trick-L-Start

Since I do not have one I can not tell you if the Echo Charge is worth the added cost.. Both are simple 3 wire hookup.

Both do the same job

Oh and the phrase "All my 12 volt stuff works except for the radio" was very important

The Dash Radio, is either a "Switched" device (Switching between the house and chassis batteries under manual control) or a Chassis device on most RV's..

So the fact that the dash radio (Which by the way is one of the parasitic loads someone mentioned up-thread) does not work is significant.

tankerboy · 09-27-2009, 12:54 PM

I got up this morning and told myself to give it my best shot. I was thinking maybe a fusible link. What it turned out to be was the starter solenoid that is mounted on the r/h radiator mount. Cleaned them and that did the trick. But now I don't have a backup camera and my blower motor doesn't work, maybe just a relay. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP.