Cheap Handling Fix

[Rmblaster]

Originally Posted by Knightab

1-1/8" socket each side. The torque for a Grade 8 3/4" is suppose to be 376ftlb. I said my wrench only went to 250 so I went till it clicked and put as much umph in it as I could to edge it up. If you lube the bolt before torquing then the 250 would get your real close. 376 is torqued dry.

I assume the front and the rear shock bolts are the same size

[Knightab]

Originally Posted by Rmblaster

I assume the front and the rear shock bolts are the same size

You know, I don't really have that answer but I would assume so. Now that you have asked that I suppose I better check the rear shocks also!

[Waiter21]

Finished the CHF, front and rear. I installed new torsion bar bushings front and rear. I extended the front tie rods with a 10 inch pipe, I wish I had used a 12 inch pipe.

I posted photos and step by step on my web site. I haven't been able to test drive yet, maybe this weekend.

Two items to note for anyone doing this:

1) If you extend your front tie rods, use a 12 inch piece of pipe, this will allow you to re-use your "Z" brackets if you have them. Otherwise they cannot be used as the tie rod will hit them.

2) Be very, very carefull when doing the rear, especially if replacing the torsion bar bushings. Its very easy to hit the ABS sensor with the torsion bar and break the sensor. Its located on top of the differential. Yes, I speak from experience :-(

Next project will be fabricating a sway bar for the rear.

[Knightab]

Originally Posted by Rmblaster

I assume the front and the rear shock bolts are the same size

I checked this morning and they are the same size and also the rear shocks do not need torqued. They appear to be correct.

[Rmblaster]

Originally Posted by Knightab

I checked this morning and they are the same size and also the rear shocks do not need torqued. They appear to be correct.

Out of curiosity did the motorhome come with the front shock bolts not torqued correctly

[Knightab]

Originally Posted by Rmblaster

Out of curiosity did the motorhome come with the front shock bolts not torqued correctly

That is absolutely correct! From reading this forum I assume it is a common error on fords part.
If you have a clunk and have not check it I would. Mine appeared to be snug when I put the wrench on them but when the clunk continued I was going to remove the shock to take it out of the equation, that is when I found the torque was not done. I torqued both sides and all is perfect now!

[Rmblaster]

Well have changed out the shocks to koni we will see how much better it rides . removing the bilsteins the shock bolts were all different torques my torque wrench only went up to 150lbs so we used 1/2 impact till it stopped then then a breaker bar till it wouldn't move basically using the German torque specs of gutentight

[jrbarber]

Originally Posted by Knightab

I'm not having any luck locating anyone who makes poly bushings fir the f53 springs. Anyone ever run across any?

Knightab, in your search for poly bushings, did you check w/ these guys?
Energy Suspension XD Product Line

They had bushings for my '87 Gillig chassis, after the experts told me the suspension was non-repairable.

Jim

[Knightab]

Originally Posted by jrbarber

Knightab, in your search for poly bushings, did you check w/ these guys?
Energy Suspension XD Product Line

They had bushings for my '87 Gillig chassis, after the experts told me the suspension was non-repairable.

Jim

Yes, I did, he said they didn't make them but gave me a cross reference link to see if any others might from something else. No luck. I was just going to order some 90 durameter poly and make them when I discovered the torque issue.

[Rmblaster]

ok question I have the hellwig links on order to lengthen the links for the chf . I have read that the bushing are of a different size so the ford bolts don't fit do I just swap out the hellwig bushings for the ford and then I'm good to go , yes I know the original links can be lengthened but I don't have access to a welder so anybody who has used the hellwigs any advice you have is much appreciated

[rtrdglazier]

I did the CHF on my 2008 Damon 378 Challenger last year along with extending the front sway bar links and built my own rear track bar. I also installed the 5 Star tune while I was redoing things,then put a Remco lube pump on my 2014 Chev Cruze and a Blue Ox tow bar setup. It is nite and day difference driving the coach now,even with towing the car it drives so much better than when I bought it should have done it sooner. Here's a couple pics of my work,

[RDG]

Originally Posted by Rmblaster

ok question I have the hellwig links on order to lengthen the links for the chf . I have read that the bushing are of a different size so the ford bolts don't fit do I just swap out the hellwig bushings for the ford and then I'm good to go , yes I know the original links can be lengthened but I don't have access to a welder so anybody who has used the hellwigs any advice you have is much appreciated

That will work.

[Waiter21]

rtr; Nice differential bracket for that rear sway bar. is it 1/4 plate.

I'll got the CHF finished on mine last week and will start making parts for the rear sway bar. TeJaj has been very helpful. I still can't believe Tractor Supply sells that 21 inch link bar for $21 - Hell, its worth more than that in scrap metal :-)

Does anyone have a template for the differential bracket? I have a 2001 F53. If not, I'll be extra careful and make one..

[Knightab]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

rtr; Nice differential bracket for that rear sway bar. is it 1/4 plate.

I'll got the CHF finished on mine last week and will start making parts for the rear sway bar. TeJaj has been very helpful. I still can't believe Tractor Supply sells that 21 inch link bar for $21 - Hell, its worth more than that in scrap metal :-)

Does anyone have a template for the differential bracket? I have a 2001 F53. If not, I'll be extra careful and make one..

$21! That's crazy! Do you happen to have the Tsc part # for that?