Cheap Handling Fix

[phil-t]

Yup - plates on the outside. I would think the links should then go on the inside of the plate. Can the plates be fliped front to back to make a difference?

[torino421]

Here's another pic, the hole in the z-bracket doesn't line up with the small hole. I'm more concerned with it not sitting flush, I'd like to hear from Tejay first before i start grinding on these $50 plates. If i space it out with washers it will bind the link outward a tad.

phil-t: no the plates cannot be reversed.

[twinboat]

Just bolt the link to the inner hole of the sway bar. Then the Z bar will fit in the outer hole.
With the arrangement and angles of the rear swaybar, nothing changes enough to effect its operation.

I don't see a need for extension plates. If they are for adjusting the sway control, you want as much as avalable in the rear anyway.

[torino421]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Just bolt the link to the inner hole of the sway bar. Then the Z bar will fit in the outer hole.
With the arrangement and angles of the rear swaybar, nothing changes enough to effect its operation.

I don't see a need for extension plates. If they are for adjusting the sway control, you want as much as avalable in the rear anyway.

Done!
Best idea I've heard all day. I ordered the rear plates because I read that there were clearance issues between the SB and the parking break mechanism on the 24k chassis. After doing what you suggested the SB is nowhere near it.
Rear plates anyone?

[TeJay]

Thanks guys!!

I have been out of town for 10 days. Got torino421's message today but couldn't answer it until this evening.

I have stated in several posts the plates in the rear are used for two reasons:
1. If there are clearance issues with the DF and the SB.
2. If you want to make SWAY adjustments to the rear other than STOCK or CHF.

Based on the connecting links position on the frame when the CHF is performed on the rear the angles remain for the most part very close to the stock position.

Also the Z-bracket is spaced out to 3" so it is only designed to fit back onto the SB and not on the top adjustment part of the plate.

I just sent torino421 a message and told him that he can send the rear plates back for a full refund.

[BobSquires]

Late to the CHF discussion. As a new class A operator I am looking for ways to control this beast as I go down the road. I have the safe-t-plus steering controller on order and an RV shop to do this for me when the parts come in.

In the meantime, I’m considering the CHF in addition to the steering control. Of all that I’ve read here, this is a DIY project. But I do not feel comfortable with my mechanical skills to be messing with the suspension. Every RV repair shop I contact, they poo-poo the CHF and refuse to do it. Instead want to sell me a bunch of other stuff. Sway control, track control, etc.

If I’m not comfortable with this type of project, where do I go to have it done? I’ve called several truck alignment shops but none knew what I was talking about. Does anyone know of a shop in central Texas or anywhere in Texas that would be familiar with this mod?

I live near Waco, TX. Any folks nearby out there that I can pay (money, food, beer?) to help me?

[TeJay]

Bob,

I understand that you might not feel comfortable performing a MOD on your suspension if you don't feel that you have the skills or tools. Understand that this CHF MOD really does what it is purported to do. You admitted that you are late to this discussion. That's fine. There will always be those who just got into RVing and therefore were not in on the original CHF discussion.

There are several of us who have been on this CHF thread for years and have read and re-read it several times from the beginning. Anybody on these forums would be hard pressed to find more than a small handful of individuals who have had one single negative comment regarding the CHF.

First consider this fact. Ford has provided two holes on each end of both the front and rear stabilizer bars (SB) since there were first installed on the 1999 F-53 chassis. For 19 years they have spent the time and money to provide both holes. Why would they do that if they never intended the holes to be used??? That's a lot of time and $$$$$ wasted for no good reason.

Secondly there have been some owners who did have Ford garages perform the CHF with no problems. We even had one Ford shop who drove the RV following the CHF, noticed the great improvement and said they intended to offer to perform the CHF on other owners of the F-53 chassis.

Third consideration is even better than the other two. Several DW (Dear Wives) have made comments similar to this. "What did you do to the RV?? It's riding and handling much better than it did on the last trip?" When the DW recognized a significant change then it must be good and true.

I'll offer you a couple of choices. To do the CHF is a fairly simple job. Any technician in just about any shop can do this in a level parking lot with no lift. Most often it will take no more than 30 minutes.

They will need these tools:
1. 1/2" drive ratchet with a 15-mm and 18-mm deep well socket.
2. A 15-mm & 18-mm combination wrench.
3. Blue lock tight for the bolt threads as added insurance that the bolts won't come loose.
4. A 1/2" drive torque wrench torque all bolts to 66 ft/lbs.

If the RV is level there will be no pent up energy stored in the SB so nothing is going to hurt anybody when they disconnect the two bolts on the SB ends. The SB is a spring but unless it is twisted there is no stored energy.

Drive around your area and stop in some small repair shops and talk to some of the technicians and have them look at what you want them to do. Any one of them should do this without fear of things breaking or failing. If you see a shop that has a few race cars around then they will know about adjusting the SB because it's done all the time by those guys. I'd be surprised if they'd charge you more than $50 to do the job on both SB's.

We live about 5 hours from Dallas in the north west corner of AR very near Fayetteville. We are about 60 minutes from Eureka Springs and 2 hours away from Branson. These are two local vacation spots that a lot of folks visit. If you plan a trip to the area you can pull in my drive and I'll do the CHF for nothing. Well maybe a 6 pac would help especially if it's in the hot summer.

I'll even lub your SB bushings which will probably need it. Most of the time they don't come from the factory with any on them as several have noticed.

Let me know!!!!

Do us all a favor and add some information to your sight either in your profile or at the bottom in the signature. It helps when answering questions to know the year, type and length of your RV.

Thanks

[jasperxray]

[QUOTE=TeJay;4199623]Thanks guys!!



Also the Z-bracket is spaced out to 3" so it is only designed to fit back onto the SB and not on the top adjustment part of the plate.


Does this mean that only one bolt is used when using the Z bracket? Or does one get a longer bolt to pass thru the link and plate and toss the bracket?


Thanks
JX

[TeJay]

If you look at post #5018 Martin I think drilled the second hole to re-use the Z-bracket on the top plate which is only 3/8" thick. To get the most benefit from having the Z-bracket you need two bolts.

I just looked at my rear set up and I mounted the plate so the adjusting holes were on the bottom of the SB. That worked for me because there was no interference, the angle was fine, the Sb was level and I did reuse the Z-bracket on the adjusting plate.

I've got the rear set up for the 1" more than the CHF setting and I must have drilled a hole for the Z-bracket to fit.

I've only provided three sets of rear adjustable plates so all details of that set up have not been worked out yet. I didn't think anybody would want rear plates.

[jasperxray]

I only used the welded bolt on the Z bracket and left the forward hole unused. I figured that only one bolt was holding the link therefore it was strong enough. Perhaps I'll drill the forward hole. Perhaps not. Any thoughts?

[TeJay]

You could move the bracket and if the hole lines up with any part of a hole in the plate just lock it in place with a C-clamp and drill the hole to 1/2" and insert a bolt. That maybe what I did. It's only been 2-3 years and 3,000 drilled holes ago so I don't remember.

Since over the years Ford has not been very consistent with the use of those Z-brackets I'd not be to worried.

[jasperxray]

Thanks for your input. I'll probably run it and see what develops. But then again seeing that vacant hole will bug me so a bolt may be in the near future.


Thanks again.


JX

[edfgrf]

I have a 16 Jayco Precept 31 UL 18000 F53 chassis. According to Jayco with J ride there is an extra stabilizer bar in the rear. Do you think I need the chf in the rear?

[Luv2go]

Originally Posted by edfgrf

I have a 16 Jayco Precept 31 UL 18000 F53 chassis. According to Jayco with J ride there is an extra stabilizer bar in the rear. Do you think I need the chf in the rear?

Probably not, adding one accomplishes the same thing as the CHF, probably better as it is a much heftier sway bar.