Cheap Handling Fix

[sask934]

I had the chf done on front and after driving about 5 miles on a very bad washboard dirt road I had clicking noise. I had the mechanic check it out and he said he had to tighten the bolts on the chf. He also applied lock tight.

Is this normal or possible I did not torque the bolts tight enough. Should I be worried and change it back.

[TeJay]

sask934,

As long as the bolts are torqued with lock tight applied they shouldn't come loose and you will be fine. Ours have been taken on and off for various reasons over the years a dozen or more times and they have never come loose. They just need to be installed correctly when removed.

There are many reasons why an install might fail. What if a torque wrench is not calibrated or inaccurate? What if somebody else stretched the bolts in an effort to make sure they are really tight? What if somebody lost one of the link bolts and replaced it with a cheap one that stretches easier? There are many what ifs!!! Just make sure your install is done correctly.

A nut/bolt combination is only tight when it is stretched the correct amount (torqued). It, the bolt then acts much like a rubber band and always contracts to hold the nut onto the bolt. If it's under stretched (torqued) the nut might come loose. If it's over stretched the bolt will eventually break.

Yes some type of locking nut will also assist in keeping the nut in place. Lock tight is another way to add security insurance.

[sask934]

Originally Posted by TeJay

sask934,

As long as the bolts are torqued with lock tight applied they shouldn't come loose and you will be fine. Ours have been taken on and off for various reasons over the years a dozen or more times and they have never come loose. They just need to be installed correctly when removed.

There are many reasons why an install might fail. What if a torque wrench is not calibrated or inaccurate? What if somebody else stretched the bolts in an effort to make sure they are really tight? What if somebody lost one of the link bolts and replaced it with a cheap one that stretches easier? There are many what ifs!!! Just make sure your install is done correctly.

A nut/bolt combination is only tight when it is stretched the correct amount (torqued). It, the bolt then acts much like a rubber band and always contracts to hold the nut onto the bolt. If it's under stretched (torqued) the nut might come loose. If it's over stretched the bolt will eventually break.

Yes some type of locking nut will also assist in keeping the nut in place. Lock tight is another way to add security insurance.

Thanks.

[dfuelman]

I also did the chf to mine. My only issue was a lot of creaking and moaning from the suspension afterward. I would up spending the $100 and buying the Haldex extended sway bar links. Did seem to help with sway and NO MORE noise. Unfortunately, it still does not drive to suit me, but I am still working on it. I am trying the factory air pressure settings this trip and see how it does.

These things drive sooo bad to start, I don't know how they sold them new???

[TeJay]

One thing that has been noticed. From the factory there is no polyurethane lubrication placed around the Stabilizer Bushings (SB). If one has the occasion to replaces the bushings some replacements will come with the proper lube.

When the CHF is employed there is usually a significant improvement in sway control. It makes sense more stress is being placed on the stock bushings and in most cases no lube is present. Maybe that's why there was more noise? The increased noise does not always occur. At least it's not reported that often.

If your unit is not up to your standards keep reading. There are several good MODS (modifications) that can/will give good ride and handling results.

Your are already playing with the tire pressures. I'd start with what the coach manufacturer recommends on the sticker inside your RV. The pressure listed on the side of the tire is for max weight and few use it.

A rear track bar has proven to help significantly on most units depending on the units size. Listing your units make, model, and size in a signature at the bottom of each post will help those wanting to provide suggestions. You are a new poster so it's normal to not have a signature yet. There's information at the top on how to accomplish it.

[CJ7ole]

Originally Posted by dfuelman

I also did the chf to mine. My only issue was a lot of creaking and moaning from the suspension afterward.

Same here. But only from the front where I did not install the adjustable links initially. When I did the front earlier this summer, I noticed the front SB would not rotate in its bushings without help from a floor jack. After I lubed those bushings, I could move it by hand. That has to make a difference.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/cheap...ml#post4877291

[Oucamptoo]

I too did the CHF and has a squeaking can the upper link bushings. I'm going to attempt to spray them with some silicone spray and see if that quitens the noise on my way back home.

[Allentc2]

I did my CHF front/rear today. Went pretty well, but I didn't get to test drive it. I have drill next weekend so I'll have to wait a couple of weeks before taking a trip. I'm hoping I'll be happy with that, though I'm budgeting for a steering stabilizer still. LOL

[dfuelman]

I almost hate to admit this, but I reset the air pressure in the front tires last week to 80 psi (what Ford recommends from the factory) and it made a hugh difference. I have always been a believer in running Max air pressure after 25 years as an over the road truck driver, but I though I would give this a try. It made a difference! Drove the RV down to the Outer Banks of NC and back and it handled like a different truck all together. I plan to reset the rear tires before my trip to South Ga. next month and see it that helps the ride even more.

[Oucamptoo]

Originally Posted by Oucamptoo

I too did the CHF and has a squeaking can the upper link bushings. I'm going to attempt to spray them with some silicone spray and see if that quitens the noise on my way back home.

Update on my CHF post. I did lube the link bushings for my ride home and it seems to have quietened the speak alot. Also, I lowered the tire PSi to 85PSi in the front tires and the ride and drive was a significant improvement. :thumb:

[hardybob]

when i did the chf i ordered the hellwig adjustable sway bar links. if not used on the front, you end up with a severe angle of the bar in relation to the suspension travel and when the front end goes up on a bump it is possible for the bar to actually end up parallel to the sway bar links and could be bad. the rear does not need the adjustable links. the hellwig part number is H637962. i ordered mine from carparts.com for $88.00 with free shipping.

[DryCreek]

Originally Posted by hardybob

when i did the chf i ordered the hellwig adjustable sway bar links. if not used on the front, you end up with a severe angle of the bar in relation to the suspension travel and when the front end goes up on a bump it is possible for the bar to actually end up parallel to the sway bar links and could be bad. the rear does not need the adjustable links. the hellwig part number is H637962. i ordered mine from carparts.com for $88.00 with free shipping.

To be more concise:

The rear usually doesn't need longer end links, unless your VSS is mounted on top of the differential. In that case it is recommended to use the longer end links you removed from the front to prevent damaging the VSS.

[NXR]

Originally Posted by DryCreek

To be more concise:

The rear usually doesn't need longer end links, unless your VSS is mounted on top of the differential. In that case it is recommended to use the longer end links you removed from the front to prevent damaging the VSS.

"VSS"?

Ray

[TeJay]

"VSS" is a Vehicle Speed Sensor.