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Visionquest2 · 07-02-2022, 11:14 PM

I have a 2019 F53 chassis. I removed the links completely by removing top and bottom nuts. Took them to my workbench, supported the end on my anvil, and knocked the splinned bolts out with a rubber mallet. 3 or 4 good whacks did it. The splines "pulled back in" when tightenimg them in place. Just be careful you have the angle right when rez assembling!

KMcCarthy · 07-03-2022, 08:27 AM

Thanks, that's what I was hoping.

CoreyinWP · 07-03-2022, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMcCarthy

Thanks, that's what I was hoping.

Look forward to hearing how you did. Looking to do mine next week…same year chassis.

KMcCarthy · 07-04-2022, 08:32 AM

Corey, it proved to be very easy. I already did the front and that made a huge difference. Between getting the tire pressure right, replacing the stock shocks with Koni FSD's ahd this the change is amazing. So much smoother and quieter. We can have a conversation at a normal sound level now.

CoreyinWP · 07-04-2022, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMcCarthy

Corey, it proved to be very easy. I already did the front and that made a huge difference. Between getting the tire pressure right, replacing the stock shocks with Koni FSD's ahd this the change is amazing. So much smoother and quieter. We can have a conversation at a normal sound level now.

Great to hear. I have done the front as well. On the rear, was it just unbolting the one and banging the splined bolt out? The turning it around?

Thanks!

KMcCarthy · 07-05-2022, 06:42 AM

Yes, I used a rubber mallet.

CoreyinWP · 07-12-2022, 08:02 AM

Just had one of the z brackets off. Before I take the second off, looks like I will have to push the sway bar up to put the bolt in? Correct?

EdInArk · 07-12-2022, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CoreyinWP

Just had one of the z brackets off. Before I take the second off, looks like I will have to push the sway bar up to put the bolt in? Correct?

Yep. Take both sides loose them move. The sway bar may be hard to move. I seem to remember using a jack.

TeJay · 07-13-2022, 07:28 AM

What ED mentioned is one way of moving the SB. One would think it would move easier but several times when removing the SB's the bushings were mostly dry creating more resistance. Yes, the bushings need to secure the SB's. Over the years I've removed the bushings and lubed them with poly lube. Sometimes it made it easier to move them but at other times it didn't. That said! Removed my rear SB's once and noticed the rear bushings were torn. I bought new poly bushings, lubed them and everything is good.

FORD does not have a great track record when it comes to the rear SB bushings for sure. They first began in 1999 using a bushing made from soy bean oil. After around 8 to 10 years the bushing just disintegrated and fell off. That has been very well documented. Then in or around 2012 FORD started using a poly bushing. Our chassis is a 2013 so maybe the stock bushings were poly or maybe not but they are now.

Now we begin on the newly designed 2021 chassis. FORD is still having issues with the bushing bracket bolts coming loose and the bushings moving off their locations so there is no anti-sway bar action. Yes the SB on the new chassis is larger (2" I believe) but that won't help much if they can't keep the bushings in place. We know some have had bushing failure in under 1,000 miles. Yes still under warranty if you can get replacement parts.

What is FORD doing differently under warranty to assure it won't happen again?? To my knowledge they are doing nothing. At least nobody has yet reported on the forum FORD doing anything in addition to just replacing the bushings and or bolts. They are not even adding any lock tight to the bracket bolts.

permitwriter · 07-13-2022, 08:59 AM

Here's a little tidbit of info regarding CHF. I was out with some friends recently. One works at an automotive tire dealer (no big truck or MH tires) and I was complaining of some unusual tire wear on one of my MH tires. He didn't know why but another guy (I didn't know) said that used to be his business and proceeded to explain what he thought the problem was.

He also mentioned that he used to work for Spartan Chassis, used to work for Ford, and knew the head of the F53 program but that was 20+ years ago. I then said that I wished I could talk to that guy, explained about CHF and concluded with the statement that, as far as I know, Ford has never said it's ok to do CHF. He said "You can" and proceeded to explain why it's beneficial.

I then told him that at the time, I couldn't get the geometry straight in my head so I used Helwig adjustable links adjusted to be longer than the stock links. He said that the stock links are ok to use.

So there you go, for what it's worth........

twinboat · 07-13-2022, 09:45 AM

The geometry being off is a portion of the benefit of the CHF.
The non 90° angle effectively shortens the arms adding to the resistance of the torsion portion of the bar.

phil-t · 07-13-2022, 01:36 PM

Did the CHF front and rear on my 2014 24k F53 today. 2 hours di the job . Had to grind the rear z-brakets for clearance on the links Will be headed out next week for about 2 weeks and 2k miles. Looking forward to the improvement. Rear DIY tracbar is next on the list.

permitwriter · 07-13-2022, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

The geometry being off is a portion of the benefit of the CHF.
The non 90° angle effectively shortens the arms adding to the resistance of the torsion portion of the bar.

Yes, I wish I had the geometry straight in my head when I did the CHF. Moving the existing links is much easier than replacing them. Those top bolts were a bear to get at.

CoreyinWP · 07-15-2022, 09:44 AM

Just had the brackets off. Sway bar moved easily up and down. I was not able to get the linkage to line up with the sway bar. Had the bar as high as it would go…hitting the drivetrain case and still was 3/8 off. Any suggestions?