Community Forums

C-Leigh Racing · 01-24-2013, 12:39 PM

[QUOTE=cenfl;1441472]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunner

Don'tcha just love those interference fit bolts.

New RVrs with new 2013 F-53. Initial driving impression not to good. Like to try the CHF.
1. Do you need to jack up coach?
2. Can a normal human lying on the ground work with these fasteners with hand tools, or do you need Superman and/or an air wrench?

Thanks.

Jacks ??, changing the front sway bar links you may not, as long as the front bumpers high enough, but the rear, depends on how high the sides are, if room enough for you to shimmy under.
Mine, I had to use the jacks & raise the coach, because my big belly couldnt get past the compartment door bottoms.
Neil

Dunner · 01-24-2013, 12:46 PM

If you can fit under it, you can do it with hand tools. See post #1194. I didn't use air tools for the front, but did on the rear. I also didn't use a torque wrench, just my feet and arms and they haven't come loose or clunked.

Midniteoyl · 01-24-2013, 01:39 PM

Agree with tightening while the weight is on the wheels.. If you cannot, then put as much load on the wheels as you can before final tighten.

jmckinley · 01-25-2013, 06:42 PM

The very first CHF was done lying on my back in gravel in a Fairbanks Alaska campground with a ratchet and a Cresent wrench.

mfolland · 01-26-2013, 11:12 PM

CHF (aka McKinley fix) completed on our ACE 29.2. It took me quite a bit longer than I thought because I am an idiot. All in all, total time was less than 2 hours. If I were to do it again, it would take me 15 minutes per axle not making the same mistakes again.

Dunner · 01-27-2013, 02:03 AM

Yeah, same here. If I had known I needed air tools, a 15 & 18mm socket and a bottle jack, I could have done it in minutes. It's not having the proper tools that slowed me down.

mfolland · 01-27-2013, 09:05 AM

Oh I had the proper tools (air tools not required). I just didn't read through enough posts to fully understand what I was doing. For example: the jack is used to raise the sway bar, not the axle. Don't jack the sway bar up too high. Don't jack the rig up to high. I found out what NOT to do by doing it. I think my problem is that I was trying to over-think how to do it. It's actually stupid simple.

I can't wait for our weather to clear up so I can go for a spin.

Dunner · 01-27-2013, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfolland

Oh I had the proper tools (air tools not required). I just didn't read through enough posts to fully understand what I was doing. For example: the jack is used to raise the sway bar, not the axle. Don't jack the sway bar up too high. Don't jack the rig up to high. I found out what NOT to do by doing it. I think my problem is that I was trying to over-think how to do it. It's actually stupid simple.

I can't wait for our weather to clear up so I can go for a spin.

My bad! I should have explained the jack in my post #1194. I was trying to keep the readers from getting too bored with a long post.

...and you can't say that about Kent.

trode · 01-28-2013, 04:49 AM

just back from first trip after CHF, great results. Noticeable reduction in coach movement on turns and crowned roads, was great that I did it before this trip, as campground was at end of about 12 miles of winding, narrow country roads with no shoulder, I felt much more confident then before. No negatives to report, Very happy I did it.

Lincolnboy2 · 01-28-2013, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunner

My bad! I should have explained the jack in my post #1194. I was trying to keep the readers from getting too bored with a long post.

...and you can't say that about Kent.

dabrooks · 01-29-2013, 02:26 PM

Did the fix before the cold snap came in but I didn't get a chance to drive it. Took it out for a spin today and a I could tell the difference. I took it mostly on the back roads and I could tell a difference in the curves and on the crowned roads. When I got home I got underneath and rechecked the bolts. We will be leaving in about 2 weeks on a 2000 mile trip and I am looking forward to driving on the main roads so I can see the difference. I will post a report when we get home. For info we have a 2001 35ft class A.

Roll · 01-29-2013, 07:33 PM

Please save an old guy some time.

I read this thread back when it was young and only 25 pages; now it's 88 pages and I just don't have the time to read it all.

Wanted to recheck the torque on my sway bar links and the clamps that hold it to the axle.

I did find somewhere on a Ford site that the links should be 85 FT LBS and the clamps only 35 FT LBS. Then I read somewhere here to use 66 FT LBS but the comment was not specific as to the clamps. Obviously if I crank a bolt intended to be 35 Ft LBS to 66 I'm going to twist the head off and really have a headache.

So what is the consensus regarding the link bolts and the clamp bolts?
Thanks all and thanks to John for the entire CHF novel.

Roll

KSCRUDE · 01-29-2013, 07:54 PM

I just used a half inch air and tighten them up, but didn't hammer on them too long. I checked them a month later by hand and could not budge them any. You really don't need a torque wrench. I didn't torque my shocks or trac bar either. Just the ol trusty impact gun! And nothing is coming loose.

Roll · 01-30-2013, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KSCRUDE

I just used a half inch air and tighten them up, but didn't hammer on them too long. I checked them a month later by hand and could not budge them any. You really don't need a torque wrench. I didn't torque my shocks or trac bar either. Just the ol trusty impact gun! And nothing is coming loose.

Thanks for the response KS. I do have a air 1/2" impact tool but they are adjustable and I wouldn't know where it is set (torque) currently or how to measure the torque on it. It's an old gun. Besides I don't have a long enough air hose to reach out to the only spot I have to park the coach when it's at home.

Still would like to know the values.

Roll