Cheap Handling Fix

[Action]

Not sure what you call the blocks that go on sb to extend links.....I understand they can't be had anymore? I would like to make some.....does anyone have any measurements for them....made from maybe 1/4" plate? Thanks
I'm working on a 2003 flair 31b

[twinboat]

Do it with out blocks for best results.

If clearance is an issue, cut sleeve and weld the links so they are 2 inchs longer.

[Action]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Do it with out blocks for best results.

If clearance is an issue, cut sleeve and weld the links so they are 2 inchs longer.

Thanks

[Cabinet]

Originally Posted by Action

Not sure what you call the blocks that go on sb to extend links.....I understand they can't be had anymore? I would like to make some.....does anyone have any measurements for them....made from maybe 1/4" plate? Thanks
I'm working on a 2003 flair 31b

Eric makes the extension plates for the CHF upgrade
his email is

Skuterdude@gmail.com
My worked great.

[Action]

Thanks I will try him

[TeJay]

permitwriter,

You are correct concerning the SB not being centered. That's something that was noticed and discussed many, many posts ago. There is nothing which assures the SB is centered between the leaf springs. I have seen it as far off center as 1" to 2".

TeJay

[VterBob]

I am new here but I have been lurking around for a little while. I have read the ENTIRE CHF thread and I can't wait to get the MH out of storage this spring so I can do the CHF to it. My previous MH was an 1995 Itasca on a Chevy (P30?) chassis. It drove pretty much like you would expect a big truck to drive. Our new purchase, the 2015 Sunstar on the F53 chassis can only be described as scary to drive. We test drove it just in city and didn't take it out on the highway. The DW and I both fell in love with the floor plan so purchasing was a forgone conclusion. Had I driven it on the highway before purchasing I would not have walked away, I would have run as fast as humanly possible! This rig is nearly impossible to keep in lane during cross winds or any vehicle of substantial size passing in either direction. The sway is horrible and the steering feels really lazy. Add to that we encountered a heavy thunderstorm on the 150 mile trip home and by the time we arrived I was wringing wet (no the coach has no leaks). So, a grateful thank you to Mr. McKinley and TeJay and all the other contributors for the ideas, the research and the sharing of CHF information.


PS: Mr McKinley, I was going to include a check in the mail but I had already sealed the envelope.

[phil-t]

My experience with the F53 chassis - 1.Make sure your weight and tire pressures are correct., use the tire manufactures load and inflation tables. 2.Get a suspension inspection and alignment done. 3.Then the CHF. 4.Then consider other suspension addons/mods.
My first coach, 22k F53 - went through all steps to get reasonable handling. My second coach, 26k F53 - Steps 1 and 2 were all I needed to do to correct some pretty bad handling.

[TeJay]

Vter-Bob.

Phil-t just about covered what you need to do. I'd just add this info. Since your RV is used I'd check the manufacturer dates on the tires. If the tires are stock they are probably built 1 or 2 years before the chassis was built. That could make them being made in 2013 or 2014 since most units that are sold as a 2015 were built in 2014. Your tires may be older than you think. Most everybody used time on the road instead of miles. RV's ray take their toll on a tires life. In fact your chassis was made then shipped to an RV dealer where it sat in a field until it was needed for a build. It's hard to say how old the tires really are when we get to drive our RV the first time?

We had about 45,000 miles and about 6 to 7 years on our RV when we bought new tires. The GY tires still looked OK but I had one rear tire blow on a trip to Canada fishing with an older 34' RV on the 1999 chassis. The chassis only had about 10,000 miles and we hit a big hole.

Also had a friend who pushed the year of tire service to 9 or 10 years and heading out on a trip he noticed a large bulge on the sidewall on one of his tires. Why take a chance on tires if you don't have to? I'm also in the same thinking when it comes to batteries. If a battery is close to its stated lifespan why wait until it fails to change them.

I did have my engine or cranking battery fail 3 years into it's so called 5 year battery life. It was so new (I thought) I never even considered that it would fail but it did. And it was under warranty to I got a new one for it.

If you don't know how to determine a tires manufacturer date just give us a shout. It's easy.

As far as the tire pressures I chased tire pressures for about 6 months. There 's a sticker somewhere inside your RV with a SUGGESTED tire pressure for your RV from the RV manufacturer. Ours (19.5" tires) said 82 for each tire. That's where I decided I'd start and that's just about where we ended up staying until we changed tires.

I did research on new tires and settled on TOYO's. Had to drive 100 miles to find some with tire date codes that were made in the same year and the months were not the same but much closer. They were also $1,500 cheaper (6 tires) than any of the other popular tires like Bridgestone, Michelin, or GY.

The TOYO's are a smoother and quieter tire than GY. That I noticed on our 100 mile trip back from Tulsa. I would buy them again.

[VterBob]

Originally Posted by phil-t

My experience with the F53 chassis - 1.Make sure your weight and tire pressures are correct., use the tire manufactures load and inflation tables. 2.Get a suspension inspection and alignment done. 3.Then the CHF. 4.Then consider other suspension addons/mods.
My first coach, 22k F53 - went through all steps to get reasonable handling. My second coach, 26k F53 - Steps 1 and 2 were all I needed to do to correct some pretty bad handling.

On the trip home with the motorhome she was empty and had brand new tires just installed. I did not check the pressure which in retrospect was a mistake. The MH is in storage for the winter right now but when I bring it out in the spring my pans are to load her then bring her for her state inspection and have her weighed hopefully and a front end alignment. I will also check/reset tire pressures. Once that is complete my plan is to do the CHF, I have already contacted Skooterdude and will replace the SB bushings with a set of his. While I know they are already poly bushings they are eight years old and I'm sure they are dry as a popcorn fart. I'f I'm going to remove them to lubricate, might as well replace them with new. Other mods to follow will be a Safe T Steer and a rear trac bar. Hopefully this improves her driving manners to suit me.

[VterBob]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Vter-Bob.

Phil-t just about covered what you need to do. I'd just add this info. Since your RV is used I'd check the manufacturer dates on the tires. If the tires are stock they are probably built 1 or 2 years before the chassis was built. That could make them being made in 2013 or 2014 since most units that are sold as a 2015 were built in 2014. Your tires may be older than you think. Most everybody used time on the road instead of miles. RV's ray take their toll on a tires life. In fact your chassis was made then shipped to an RV dealer where it sat in a field until it was needed for a build. It's hard to say how old the tires really are when we get to drive our RV the first time?

We had about 45,000 miles and about 6 to 7 years on our RV when we bought new tires. The GY tires still looked OK but I had one rear tire blow on a trip to Canada fishing with an older 34' RV on the 1999 chassis. The chassis only had about 10,000 miles and we hit a big hole.

Also had a friend who pushed the year of tire service to 9 or 10 years and heading out on a trip he noticed a large bulge on the sidewall on one of his tires. Why take a chance on tires if you don't have to? I'm also in the same thinking when it comes to batteries. If a battery is close to its stated lifespan why wait until it fails to change them.

I did have my engine or cranking battery fail 3 years into it's so called 5 year battery life. It was so new (I thought) I never even considered that it would fail but it did. And it was under warranty to I got a new one for it.

If you don't know how to determine a tires manufacturer date just give us a shout. It's easy.

As far as the tire pressures I chased tire pressures for about 6 months. There 's a sticker somewhere inside your RV with a SUGGESTED tire pressure for your RV from the RV manufacturer. Ours (19.5" tires) said 82 for each tire. That's where I decided I'd start and that's just about where we ended up staying until we changed tires.

I did research on new tires and settled on TOYO's. Had to drive 100 miles to find some with tire date codes that were made in the same year and the months were not the same but much closer. They were also $1,500 cheaper (6 tires) than any of the other popular tires like Bridgestone, Michelin, or GY.

The TOYO's are a smoother and quieter tire than GY. That I noticed on our 100 mile trip back from Tulsa. I would buy them again.

Hello TeJay


Seems we have similar likes in motorhomes (30T). My rig is listed as a 2015 but it is definitely a 2014 chassis. date code on the tires when I first contacted the dealer showed they were 2012 vintage with 28,000 miles on the coach. I said no way would I accept those tires and they had a set of Cooper tires installed.



I will not push my luck when it comes to tires or batteries. All have been replaced (tires and batteries) and this spring I will replace all hoses and belts as well. I'm anal about keeping my peace of mind...


I didn't have a say in what tires were selected as the dealer just went ahead and installed them. Cooper probably would not have been my first choice. I'll monitor them and see how they perform.


I'm sure you must be aware of the modification Skuterdude has done to your original design of the CHF extender plates. I have to admit I like his change over depending on a weld but somebody must have access to one hell of a metal brake.

[TeJay]

Bob,

Eric sent me a message months ago with a picture of the newly designed plates. He used a guy who recently purchased a very powerful hydraulic press. I believe it was well over 200 tons of pressure. This allows the use of one piece of 3/8" metal and the press makes the off-set bend so there's no need to weld two pieces together.

It was a great idea but it never dawned on me to look for a press that large locally. He was already working with a metal worker who was lazer cutting the holes and I guess he had just bought this hydraulic press which could do the bend.

During my 2 years making well over 120 sets of plates nobody ever experienced any build concerns. Believe me I do like his idea of the double bend which eliminates the need for a double weld. I also believe he's having the plates powder coated which was a direct result of the lower cost by using one piece of metal and no welding to achieve the off-set.

There's always many, many ways to improve over others ideas. Most every week that I'm working in the garage I'm doing very much the same thing improving on previous ways of constructing and repairing things.

At least you do have 6 new tires. Not every RV buyer looking at used RV's knows about tire build dates and how that can be a good negotiation point.

Safe travels
TeJay

[HarryStone]

I hope he's bending those plates with plenty of heat, otherwise it will result is stress fractures

[VterBob]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Bob,

Eric sent me a message months ago with a picture of the newly designed plates. He used a guy who recently purchased a very powerful hydraulic press. I believe it was well over 200 tons of pressure. This allows the use of one piece of 3/8" metal and the press makes the off-set bend so there's no need to weld two pieces together.

It was a great idea but it never dawned on me to look for a press that large locally. He was already working with a metal worker who was lazer cutting the holes and I guess he had just bought this hydraulic press which could do the bend.

During my 2 years making well over 120 sets of plates nobody ever experienced any build concerns. Believe me I do like his idea of the double bend which eliminates the need for a double weld. I also believe he's having the plates powder coated which was a direct result of the lower cost by using one piece of metal and no welding to achieve the off-set.

There's always many, many ways to improve over others ideas. Most every week that I'm working in the garage I'm doing very much the same thing improving on previous ways of constructing and repairing things.

At least you do have 6 new tires. Not every RV buyer looking at used RV's knows about tire build dates and how that can be a good negotiation point.

Safe travels
TeJay

Tejay,


Tinkering just seems to be something in the blood, wouldn't you agree? The date code was the first thing I looked at. Knowing the coach was seven years old I suspected the tires might be original and at the end of their life expectancy. After my trip home in it I realized why the original owner only put 25K miles on it in 7 years. I'm in the process of reviewing your DIY rear trac bar and am thinking I will build my own. I don't weld but I know a local machine shop that can do the required welding.


Many grand and safe adventures to you


Bob