Check Engine Light With Codes

[LouLacher]

So as I was driving to my usual RV shop for other work and the engine made the slightest stutter (only once) and I later noticed the CHECK ENGINE light illuminated. The RV shop found two codes set and reset them -- reporting to me the codes did not reoccur. They reported the codes stated "IGNITION KEY IN CURCIT ERROR, ENGINE OVERSPEED CONDITION" I did sone research and the actual codes might have been B1352 and P0219. Can't ask the shop until Monday.
On the way home, 30 miles all was well. The next day on the way to the RV storage facility, about 5 miles the engine again made a very slight stutter (only once) and the CHECK ENGINE Light came on again.
So 2 questions. 1. Does anyone have an idea of what the issue is and how to fix and 2. In case my RV shop does not deal with this problem does anyone have a recommendation where to go for this service in the Chandler, AZ area.
Thanks in advance for your answers.

2018 Tiffin Open Road 34PA, V10 gasser, 13,000 miles. And just outside of Ford's 5 year warrantee. Only driven 1000 miles last year.
Catalytic Converter and O2 sensors stolen and replaced May 2022.

[garykk]

Look for a Ford truck service center, I would hope there would be one in your area., where they can read the codes and diagnose the problem.

[sbleiweiss]

Sanderson Ford and a couple of others in the Phoenix area (I'm blanking on the names of the others this morning) work on Ford chassis. Sanderson has hookups where you can overnight too.

[GypsyR]

B1352 is unfortunately endemic to older Fords. There's a little metal tab that it pushed to the side when you insert the ignition key. it's what makes the buzzer work if you turn off the engine and open the door with the key still still in. Why this deserved an OBDII code, I don't know. The little metal tab wears over time or something, a LOT of old Fords are driving around with that code. The sensor/tab thing might be replaceable, I haven't looked into it. Even though I own a Ford with the problem. That code by itself will NOT turn on the check engine light.

The other code is the concern. But you need to know 100% if that is the code that set. Being just one digit off can send you way down the wrong rabbit hole.
That said, if that code is correct it says to me a transmission problem. IE, one of the gears slipped and the engine revved up. BUT, I would really expect to see it accompanied by some kind of kind of solenoid or slip code from the transmission itself so I might be barking up the wrong tree.

[Olyteddy]

I have one of these & run Forscan on an old Windows laptop when I see a code. Also good for real time monitoring.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://forscan.org/home.html

[LouLacher]

Thanks all for your thoughts and suggestions. I have talked to all the Ford Service Centers and Commercial Service Centers in the Phoenix area. Either they don't take Class A RVs at all or one is first come first serve where I have to leave my Rig in their parking lot for 6 to 8 weeks before they will look at it. The other is booking reservations for May 2023. Wow. Checking with truck centers has not been fruitful either. I did find one commercial truck repair shop that would take my rig in today but they require I first have them perform an "end to end" inspection for $300 and then they would give me a list of things that need fixing and cost of each. At that point I expect to find the only thing on the list would be the Service Engine Warning Light -- and we finally move forward from there. I have a trip in 10 days that may need to be cancelled but I really wonder if this happened while on the road would I want to leave my rig in some town for 3 months because there is much more need for service than available for a Ford V10 Class A Gasser Engine Warning Light. I will be getting my own code reader first to verify what might be the real issue.
Sorry for the implied frustration and thanks for all the suggestions.

[GypsyR]

Some frustration is very understandable. Wide your search for help to include transmission shops. That one sticker code may not be a transmission like I suspect it to be but in any case transmission shops have extensive engine code checking/diagnostic capability. They have to, it's the nature of their business these days. These days transmissions are a LOT more integrated into the rest of the vehicle systems than they used to be.

[LouLacher]

I thought I'd post an update for anyone still watching this thread. The intrigue continues. I purchased my own code reader to verify the codes that I was told by the RV repair shop. They had reset the codes and the Check Engine Light was off.

However, the next day the Engine Warning light came on again. Armed with my new code reader I found the original codes did not repeat but a new code had occurred. Code P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold BANK 1.

I checked the system for loose wires and exhaust leaks, but all looked good. I reset the code and drove the rig for an hour on various conditions. The code has not reset. A friend of a friend who used to work Ford V10s says it's the catalyst converter 90% of the time. Mine was stollen and replaced last May. I was told with an OEM converter from Ford. How can I tell?

So, for now, all faults are cleared. If future codes occur, how would I know it's the converter rather than an O2 sensor?

Thanks again in advance for any thoughts and advice.

[kandcbend]

Originally Posted by LouLacher

I was told with an OEM converter from Ford. How can I tell?

Ford does stamp their PN onto the catalytic converter. You may be able to crawl under and take a picture of the PN with your phone.

[craigd853]

Originally Posted by LouLacher

I thought I'd post an update for anyone still watching this thread. The intrigue continues. I purchased my own code reader to verify the codes that I was told by the RV repair shop. They had reset the codes and the Check Engine Light was off.

However, the next day the Engine Warning light came on again. Armed with my new code reader I found the original codes did not repeat but a new code had occurred. Code P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold BANK 1.

I checked the system for loose wires and exhaust leaks, but all looked good. I reset the code and drove the rig for an hour on various conditions. The code has not reset. A friend of a friend who used to work Ford V10s says it's the catalyst converter 90% of the time. Mine was stollen and replaced last May. I was told with an OEM converter from Ford. How can I tell?

So, for now, all faults are cleared. If future codes occur, how would I know it's the converter rather than an O2 sensor?

Thanks again in advance for any thoughts and advice.

Hello sir and sorry for your issues. The code you pulled down on your own scanner is an oxygen sensor code. Bank 1 is the left side of the exhaust and bank 2 would be the right side as you are sitting in the coach. These sensors are less than 100.00 dollars a piece. Your make and model may have 3 of them and I would just change them all to avoid issues down the road but that is up to you. I know you said you had just replaced your oxygen sensors but one of them may be bad. My engine scanner allows me to watch the oxygen sensors while the engine is running. Does yours have this capability? Now that you know where to look I would get back under coach and look at each individual oxygen sensor to make sure they did not melt by the exhaust or are damaged. Good Luck and I hoped I helped some

[bigb56]

It helps to have a scanner that can read manufacturer specific codes however any generic scanner will read a code that has set the CEL. Additionally it is helpful to be able to see freeze frame information when a code sets, for instance it would have shown RPM and transmission gear and possibly torque converter slip when your engine overspeed code occurred.

[LouLacher]

For those that might still have an interest in this thread, I want to post what I hope will be the closeout of my issue. In short, I found that when my stolen catalytic converter was replaced, a non-OEM and less expensive unit was used. When I called customer service for the unit used they told me they did not make converters for RVs. For the 6.8L engine -- yes, but only when used in 7.5 k pound gross weight truck. Not for a 26k RV. My insurance paid for a Ford OEM converter, not a lessor unit. I professionally discussed with the original repair facility, and they were happy to install a Ford OEM converter at no cost. So I just completed a short trip and all ran well. No check engine lights. I am hopeful this issue has been solved.

Thanks all for your thoughts and suggestions that helped me isolate and solve this issue.

Happy travels to all.

[Arch Hoagland]

Thanks for the update, glad all is well.