Community Forums

Cpl Ed · 02-21-2022, 12:32 PM

Can I do a CHF to this setup? On a 2001. I'm wondering if it should be replaced or rebuilt. Thanks for replies.

twinboat · 02-21-2022, 12:56 PM

Yes, remove the bolt and bracket from both sides, swing the bar up and use the back holes for the bolt.
If you reuse the bracket, make sure it doesn't contact the link when in service.

Many RVs never had the bracket and worked fine without them.

If you have your RV up on levelers for the picture you should be fine. If that it sitting with a the weight on the springs, you will need to extend your links a few inchs.

Cpl Ed · 02-21-2022, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

Yes, remove the bolt and bracket from both sides, swing the bar up and use the back holes for the bolt.
If you reuse the bracket, make sure it doesn't contact the link when in service.

Many RVs never had the bracket and worked fine without them.

If you have your RV up on levelers for the picture you should be fine. If that it sitting with a the weight on the springs, you will need to extend your links a few inchs.

Thank you TwinBoat, yes it is up on levelers. And appreciate the tip about the bracket.

TeJay · 02-21-2022, 05:38 PM

Ed,
Just thought I'd mention this fact. When Ford first began with the F-53 chassis and the (SB) Stabilizer Bars or more correctly called anti-sway bars, they used a soybean oil-based rubber. It may have been cheaper, but they only have a life span of about 8 or nine years. Maybe a previous owner has upgraded those bushings to a much better product called polyurethane? I don't believe you told us the maintenance history of your RV but if you have records or if you know those bushings have been replaced then you're good. If you don't know the service history it's recommended those bushings, be replaced. You will very much appreciate the improvement over the stock bushings.

If you are a DIY type of person, the job of replacing the bushing is fairly easy. It is recommended that all 4 bushings be replaced. There are 2 on the front SB and 2 on the rear. You can get new very good quality replacements from Skuterdude. He's a member of these forums and sells them on e-bay. They are reasonably priced and of a very good quality. Just google his username at the top of the forum page.

If you have any further questions about this DIY project, just contact someone on the forum. They will be glad to assist you.

DFord · 02-21-2022, 10:36 PM

You'll love the change in handling after you've finished. The SB will get a lot more of a workout and that will put a strain on the bushings so upgrade them as recommended. When I bought our MH, it felt like it was top heavy especially when going around a bend in the highway. After the change, it's as solid as can be. Just flip the "Z" brackets around and use the hole closest to the axle for the link. Some of the first V10s came without those brackets and had to have them added with a TSB so be sure to reuse them. After connecting the first side, you might need a bottle jack to get the second side to line up with the link so the bolt will slip in.

Cpl Ed · 02-22-2022, 10:24 AM

Thank you all for the much needed information! I bought the MH used from a somewhat 'shady' lot and has no paperwork. I will follow all recommended tips, starting with the bushings/Skuterdude. I'm novice RV'r so one question: Should the bushings/CHF be done in any particular order?

twinboat · 02-22-2022, 11:07 AM

Do the bushings and CHF at the same time.

The poly bushings may also available at NAPA auto parts. Input your vin# and buy local.

DFord · 02-22-2022, 01:44 PM

The order you do them in doesn't matter. Just know the original bushings won't last long after the links are moved closer to the axle. Do just one bushing at a time to keep the SB from falling. You won't believe the difference this simple little change will make in how your MH handles.