CHF for a 18k chassis

[Rusty1233]

I have read some of the threads on the chf post. Most have been about the 22 or 22.5 k chassis as well as the pre 2013 years.

I have a 2014 H R Vacationer 32wbd on a 18k and overall length of 33.5' mfg date of 3/13.

I came up through the ranks to get to this point now. Finally a Class A, so I don't have a lot to compare it with. It seems to handle fairly well, atleast up to 65 or so then it can get a little squirelly and don't need to go much faster than that. What I notice most is the semi effect. It does get pushed around some but not unmanagable most of the time. Also the driveway sway is bad. Probably the worst effect I would like this to fix. But I will always try to improve where there is room.

Does anyone have experience with the 18k and newer model years? This combination.
I have read that Ford redesigned the chassis in the last couple years. Is this true? Did they address this ?

I am not a mechanic by any means, but not helpless either. Somewhere in between.
First- Would it be worth it, and to tackle it myself ? Or
Second- Pay a shop to do it and what would be a reasonable price ?
Third - Does anyone know a reasonable shop in the Los Angeles area that could do something like this ?

Thanks for advice?

[TeJay]

Rusty,
We just last week took delivery of a Winnebago 2014 Vista 30T on an F-53 18,000 LB chassis. I drove the MH for about 40 miles before we left the dealer which was 1 mile from the Winnebago factory in Forest City Iowa. We stayed 2 days on their lot so we could try everything and get some items fixed.
After I drove the coach for those 40 miles I did the CHF in the campground. If you can remove two bolts on the front and 4 on the back you can do it.

These coaches already have a lot going for them as I'll explain. After doing the CHF it did help with sway a lot. Since you are doing no harm and it will help with sway I'd recommend doing it. The coach is one handed relaxed driving. Semi's that I encountered gave me no problems. The biggest problem will be a Semi approaching from the rear traveling 10 or more MPH faster than you. They will push a big wall of air. That's where a rear track bar would help.

Frame movement can be explained this way. Sway or the top of the coach moving side to side. The anti-sway bars control that. The CHF is designed to increase the weight needed to sway the coach. If you can remove 6 nuts and bolts you can do it.
Frame twist or movement caused by a strong gust of wind hitting the side of the coach in the front just after you come out of a line of trees and into an open field. that gust of wind hitting the front on the coach tries to push it in the opposite direction. That's frame twist or left and right movement of the entire front of the coach. The track rod helps to control that movement.

These chassis have a front track bar but not one in the rear. It is recommended that one be added. You can buy one for about $450 550 or go to this web sight and have one made or make it yourself.

http://www.oemys-performance.com/diy...r.htm#rogdiytb

These coaches also come with Bilstein shocks. I've talked to an engineer at a place that sells those shocks. He's given me a lot of good information regarding the design. I think they are a good solid shock. The shocks are designed to dampen coach movement in two direction. When you hit a bump the spring compresses and so does the shock. When the spring rebounds so does the shock. So they are designed through valving, to control or dampen spring oscillations in both directions. Make sure that your tire pressure is where it is supposed to be.

Also some add Firestone air bags which work in parallel with the springs to help dampen or soften the ride quality.

Good luck and if you need more information just ask or PM those that answer or offer advice.

TeJay

[usinvestment]

On my 800 mile drive home from the dealer I noticed several things. Once I got home I made several changes. These are a big box on wheels and they will never drive like a sports car but big improvements can be made for safety and drive comfort. The rear trac bar I added was worth the time. The Reflex Steering Stabilizer I added for piece of mind incase a front tire blowout and helps with big rig side wind. All the changes together made the coach much better to drive. The 5 star tune was big also.

[Rusty1233]

TeJay, I did PM you. Did you receive it? No hurry just curious. Thx

[TeJay]

Yep, got it and replied. Aren't the internet and these forums great ??????

TeJay

[Rusty1233]

TeJay,
Well I have been crawling around under both ends and taking some pictures. Lets see how ours compare. In the rear I also found 2 empty holes that look very usable. Look to be about 11/16 or so maybe 3/4. The one on the right is almost directly inline with the diff. and by only drillong one more above and centered, I believe a 3 hole bracket could be fabricated using a small gusset or two even. After looking and thinking I do believe that it is very important to start with and make the connecting rod (linkage) level. If it is not the axel will bind and not allow free movement up and down. Could crack or break the diff. Just a little forward or back will be taken care of with the linkage swivel connection. In my opinion.

Now for the front. Here are a few pictures and we are talking about moving the connecting rods back to the open holes, correct?
Also here are a few shots of the front trac bar on mine. Correct?



























Sorry the pictures are all out of order but I think you will be able to decifer my idea's.

And yes this forum is a great help and a wealth of knowledge can be gained here.

Thanks again

[Rusty1233]

Wow, internet skills...not so much lol

[clyon51]

There no difference in any F53 chassis that prevents you from doing the CHF. The basic sway bar system has not changed over the years.

[TeJay]

Rusty,
The 4th picture up from the bottom shows the ASB, the connecting links and the 4 holes. That one is a piece of cake. Yes just move the link to the back holes. Lower the MH off the jacks closer to the ground and I think it will be easier.

What I'm going to do is make the differential track mount and bolt it on the differential. Then attach the adjustable top link to the differential bracket. That will locate the exact position of the link where it will bolt to the frame mount. I'll mark the location then weld the attaching part of the bracket so I can locate the plate where the holes are. Another way is to make the frame mount, bolt it to the top link, mark the frame holes on the plate. Then it's easy to drill the plate holes to match the frame holes. That way the link won't bind and it can still move up and down with the differential. I am also going to put a matching plate on the back side of the frame with matching bolt holes. I figure it won't hurt to sandwich the two plates between the frame for extra support and strength. Yes the link should be parallel to the axle or the ground, which ever way you look at it.

I just looked up on the TSC sight the name of those things. They are called, "Adjustable Top Links" They come in all lengths and they are adjustable like a turn-buckle. As of yet I don't know how long the link will have to be but that will be determined.

You mentioned something about movement front to rear. The top link is bushed and rubber mounted and will swivel up and down correct?? As the diff moves up and down with spring compression there should be no differential movement front to rear unless there's something I'm not seeing.

TeJay

[TeJay]

Rusty,
How was the alignment on your coach??? The dealer tech drove ours for about 10 miles and didn't pick up on this. When traveling down the road you have to keep about 2 " of left rudder to keep the coach traveling straight down the road. If you let go of the wheel it heads for the ditch. I drove the coach home (600 miles) and if I hit the rumble strip once I hit it 50 times.

I've contacted the Ford dealer here in town. I know the guys there well through my teaching automotive in this town for 25 years. I've provided them some good techs over the years. Sometimes it difficult to find a wheel alignment shop that will handle these rigs. The service writer contacted a local place and is working the warranty claim through their dealer. They are actually going to cut a check to the place so they can get paid then they will file with Ford for their money. I've got an appointment for the 20th. The reason I bring this up is this. Ford has a caster spec of +4.0 to +7.0 on the F-53 chassis or at least close to that range. If you have an alignment check and if it is at +4.5 degrees the tech will say it's within the range and leave it alone. It is most important to get as much + caster as possible. I'm going to get at least another 2.5 degrees put in both sides. Positive caster will shift weight rearward and down on the front wheels to assist in keeping the vehicle tracking straight. Also since there is more rearward shifted weight to move the coach is less effected by wind, semi's and roads. It is positive caster that brings the steering wheel back to center after a turn.

TeJay

[Rusty1233]

TeJay,
As far as I know my alignment seems fine. But then again this is the first and only Class A I have ever driven. Nothing to compare it with. Seems to trac straight and true as far as road conditions allow. I will take it to the Ford truck facility that is close by and have them check the alignment. If they tell me a number 4.5 or lower should I have them + it closer to the upper of 6.5 to 7 ?

Thanks, Rusty

[Rusty1233]

Also sorry about the double and triple uploaded photo's but at looking at the angle of the front sway bar. Do you think the added length is needed for the connecting rods.

[Rusty1233]

TeJay,
I missed your post at 8:32 sorry and no there is nothing your missing on the rear diff set up. Just mentioning that as parallel as possible to avoid any chance of a bind.

I also will fab a sandwich plate for the frame bracket. In most cases that is what we would do in a similar situation in structural steel fab.

[usinvestment]

Here is a link for the DIY rear trac bar and tie rod. I made mine similar to these. No way was I spending $550 for a few brackets and tie rod ends.

Oemy's Web Site - DIY Trac Bar
UB Machine Inc.

I hope this helps.

I know Fleetwood does a front end alignment at the factory, I would check with Winnebago to see it they do the same. Also check your tire pressure.