RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
View Poll Results: How did you perform the CHF on the front (Cheap Handling Fix)
Just moved the existing links 27 46.55%
Replaced the links with longer ones 16 27.59%
Used TeJay's plates 15 25.86%
Voters: 58. You may not vote on this poll

Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-19-2020, 01:35 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Luv2go's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Nor'easters Club
Appalachian Campers
Ford Super Duty Owner
Coastal Campers
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,280
CHF Method Poll

How did you do the CHF on the front? There was a post recently on the Cheap Handling Fix thread recently wondering how many did just moved the existing links to the other holes, added longer links or used TeJay's plates. Hopefully this poll will answer those questions.

I know there is at least one poll on iRV2.com that has many more questions, this poll is only for those of us who have done the CHF and only about the three most popular methods.

I used longer links, but would have used TeJay's plates if they were available at the time.
__________________

__________________
Stewart, Brenda and kids
2008 Newmar Canyon Star 3410, now at a new home
2006 Roadtrek Versatile 210
Luv2go is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 01-19-2020, 02:00 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 1,784
I just moved the stock links and ran for almost 3 years and 22,000 miles with no problems. But I seem to lift the front wheels off the ground more often than I should when leveling, so I oped for TeJay's plates.

They're very nicely built, and I have to say I do like the angle it puts the links at much better. I only recently installed, so I don't know yet if it still wheelies while leveling Even if it still does I think I'd recommend the plates or longer links for the improved angle.
__________________

__________________
2017 Thor A.C.E. 30.1
F53 18,000 GVWR
EdInArk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2020, 04:30 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
jharrell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,511
Just like jmckinley did over ten years ago discovering the CHF I just moved the links to the inner hole with zero issues and greatly improved ride. Last I spoke jmckinley there have been no issues in a decade and many miles without extending the links. With mine it has been over 3 years and 30,000 plus miles no issues.

I also tested the axle droop with the CHF and sway bar completely disconnected and it only raises the tires off the ground 1/2" sooner with the CHF than without, so almost no real world difference.

If you understand suspension geometry you will know the angle actually contributes to the stiffness and by leveling them out with extended links or plate you are softening the CHF up. I have posted the math before and using extended links ends up being about half way between stock and and normal CHF as though you put a hole right in between the two and mounted there. Conversely If you wanted the same stiffness as the CHF but really want angle closer to 90 degrees you would need a hole much closer to the axle, right about where the bend is.
__________________
Eagle 5 - 2016 Winnebago Vista 31be - CHF - Blue Ox Rear Track Bar - Centramatics
320w solar - TriStar MPPT 60 - Magnum 3012 inverter
2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Toad - Readybrute Elite Towbar
jharrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2020, 06:09 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 217
I just moved the links and have had no issues. jherrel's math confirmed my belief that extending the links would lessen the benefit.
__________________
2015 Winnebago Vista 27N
WyCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2020, 06:12 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
hohenwald48's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Nashville, TN area
Posts: 3,248
Don't forget folks, there are several differing designs of Ford anti-sway bars. I've had 3 different F-53s over the last 5 years and every one has been different.

What's true for one configuration doesn't necessarily play for all configurations. Just because one person can simply move the link to the other hole doesn't mean everybody else gets such a simple solution.
__________________
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.
2019 Newmar Canyon Star 3627 on a 2018 F-53 26K chassis w/6 speed transmission
2017 Jeep Wrangler JKU with Ready Brute tow system
hohenwald48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2020, 07:02 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
jharrell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,511
Quote:
Originally Posted by hohenwald48 View Post
What's true for one configuration doesn't necessarily play for all configurations. Just because one person can simply move the link to the other hole doesn't mean everybody else gets such a simple solution.
Very true, you want to make sure the links and bar don't make contact under normal suspension movement.

Its not rocket science you just don't want parts banging into each other at high speed. Use leveling jacks to observe suspension movement before and after.
__________________
Eagle 5 - 2016 Winnebago Vista 31be - CHF - Blue Ox Rear Track Bar - Centramatics
320w solar - TriStar MPPT 60 - Magnum 3012 inverter
2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Toad - Readybrute Elite Towbar
jharrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2020, 09:43 PM   #7
Ex Millwright / Army Vet
 
marjoa's Avatar


 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: FTers. We're all over the place.
Posts: 3,042
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdInArk View Post
I just moved the stock links and ran for almost 3 years and 22,000 miles with no problems. But I seem to lift the front wheels off the ground more often than I should when leveling, so I oped for TeJay's plates.

They're very nicely built, and I have to say I do like the angle it puts the links at much better. I only recently installed, so I don't know yet if it still wheelies while leveling Even if it still does I think I'd recommend the plates or longer links for the improved angle.
I voted and I use Tejays plate front & rear. I have never had my front tires off the ground because I always manual level.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	front-final-1.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	147.2 KB
ID:	272731   Click image for larger version

Name:	rear-chf--for-posting-plate-2.jpg
Views:	14
Size:	371.3 KB
ID:	272732  

__________________
TEAM Martin & Joanie, FTers, https://www.youtube.com/RVstreet
2012 WGO Vista 35F, 5 ST, Toyo M122's, Centramatics (all around), TPMS, ScanGuage II, Safe T Plus, SS Rear Trac Bar, CHF (F/R), Koni FSD's, 2017 FORD Fiesta Toad, Escapees,
Making Traveling, FTing and Our Motorhome "GREAT AGAIN".
marjoa is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2020, 07:51 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 1,784
Quote:
Originally Posted by marjoa View Post
I voted and I use Tejays plate front & rear. I have never had my front tires off the ground because I always manual level.
I always manual level too. Automagic mode is like a carnival ride, and I can always level it closer to the ground manually. Even so, I usually wind up with a front wheel off the ground anyway. We've been out once since installing TeJay's plates, and I still had one front off, but I really think that site was front-end low.

I'm hoping Fred's plates will help some. It's not a huge issue; I just drive up on a pair of wedges left over from our TT.

Prior to Fred's plates mine looked just like the picture below, and even though I drove it 20k like that, I'm still happier with the angle with the plates. It's only logical that it would be softer with links more vertical, but I put them in the mid position and still one one harder in reserve.

On the one trip we've taken I couldn't tell the difference, but the roads weren't that challenging.

We'll see
__________________
2017 Thor A.C.E. 30.1
F53 18,000 GVWR
EdInArk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2020, 09:00 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 3,163
For those that are bringing up "manually level so tires don't leave the ground"...when you are driving, the suspension often "tops out" on road heaves. Leveling has nothing to do with CHF implementations. The suspension has to be able to articulate it's full range of motion and the limits have to be the limiting factor (not something induced). The shocks and any limit straps should be the top out limiting factor - not the antisway system.
__________________
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
Dav L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2020, 09:10 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 1,784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dav L View Post
For those that are bringing up "manually level so tires don't leave the ground"...when you are driving, the suspension often "tops out" on road heaves. Leveling has nothing to do with CHF implementations. The suspension has to be able to articulate it's full range of motion and the limits have to be the limiting factor (not something induced). The shocks and any limit straps should be the top out limiting factor - not the antisway system.
Logical. But here's what my front sway bar looked like before TeJay's plates. The weight is on the wheel in the photo.

For the record, this is not my photo, but it looked just like this.

I don't know if it limited downward movement or not, but I'm sure happier with the angle now.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	CHF with stock link.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	41.0 KB
ID:	272845  
__________________
2017 Thor A.C.E. 30.1
F53 18,000 GVWR
EdInArk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2020, 09:43 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 20,495
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdInArk View Post
Logical. But here's what my front sway bar looked like before TeJay's plates. The weight is on the wheel in the photo.

For the record, this is not my photo, but it looked just like this.

I don't know if it limited downward movement or not, but I'm sure happier with the angle now.
Is that picture with the front tires on the ground and the springs compressed, or up on levelers, with the axle hanging ?

It will make a difference in the angles it shows.
twinboat is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2020, 10:35 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
jharrell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,511
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dav L View Post
For those that are bringing up "manually level so tires don't leave the ground"...when you are driving, the suspension often "tops out" on road heaves. Leveling has nothing to do with CHF implementations. The suspension has to be able to articulate it's full range of motion and the limits have to be the limiting factor (not something induced). The shocks and any limit straps should be the top out limiting factor - not the antisway system.
If you top out your shocks regularly they will be destroyed. Vehicles that tend to do that use limit straps to protect the shocks from damage.

Pretty confident my suspension never tops out in normal driving even over road heaves. This is because my sway bar makes contact with the leaf on at full droop and there is not a mark on the paint on the bar in that location. If I lift the tires off the ground it ends up resting there which is 1/2" less than the shock limits. That light contact when resting is not enough to even leave a mark.

The droop is about 4" of travel down, if you drop your axle 4" on a regular basis at speed you will need to put limit straps on either way.

The sway bar and links are designed to take at least 750 lbs per inch of deflection each and with the normal CHF over 1200lbs. The whole front axle assembly is probably around 500lbs which would be split between each link while holding off the ground, absolutely no issue there and I would venture the links would hold up longer than your shocks if the axle where going full limit at high speed.
__________________
Eagle 5 - 2016 Winnebago Vista 31be - CHF - Blue Ox Rear Track Bar - Centramatics
320w solar - TriStar MPPT 60 - Magnum 3012 inverter
2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Toad - Readybrute Elite Towbar
jharrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2020, 10:41 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
jharrell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,511
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdInArk View Post
Logical. But here's what my front sway bar looked like before TeJay's plates. The weight is on the wheel in the photo.

For the record, this is not my photo, but it looked just like this.

I don't know if it limited downward movement or not, but I'm sure happier with the angle now.
This is the lever arm plot I did on mine that lets you see the the effective arm for stock, CHF and extended links:

Click image for larger version

Name:	CHF lever arm.JPG
Views:	11
Size:	151.5 KB
ID:	272848
__________________
Eagle 5 - 2016 Winnebago Vista 31be - CHF - Blue Ox Rear Track Bar - Centramatics
320w solar - TriStar MPPT 60 - Magnum 3012 inverter
2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Toad - Readybrute Elite Towbar
jharrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2020, 11:00 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 1,784
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Is that picture with the front tires on the ground and the springs compressed, or up on levelers, with the axle hanging ?

It will make a difference in the angles it shows.
Mine look exactly like this with the wheels sitting on the ground with no other support.
__________________

__________________
2017 Thor A.C.E. 30.1
F53 18,000 GVWR
EdInArk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
POLL- Which method of tire balancing do you use? MSHappyCampers iRV2.com General Discussion 23 12-03-2018 11:44 PM
Poll of which method you use to wash your Newmar tnedator Newmar Owner's Forum 52 08-12-2018 12:16 AM
The Geo Method / Black and Gray Water Holding Tank Maintenance Geometricenigma Technology: Internet, TV, Satellite, Cell Phones, etc. 33 10-29-2011 11:34 AM
Winterization using blow out method RVDude MH-General Discussions & Problems 12 12-10-2007 07:01 PM
A different method of winterizing richardcoxid iRV2.com General Discussion 8 11-01-2006 06:18 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×