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Old 05-31-2015, 03:09 PM   #1
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Cutting hole in floor to replace F53 ford fuel pump

I have a 1992 HR 5000 series. The fuel pump needs replacement, and wouldn't you know it the tank is full! I have read some that it is possible to cut a hole in the floor under the bed to get access to the pump. Has anyone done this successfully? And just where is the pump located on the tank, front, rear or center?
Michael
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:20 PM   #2
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I think I'd siphon or drain the tank, using the gas in my auto and lawnmower rather than cutting a hole in the floor and all the repairing and patching of the floor. Once you get some fuel out of the tank, you can support it on a couple of planks and jacks and lower it to access the top. You should check that the fuel lines to the engine and generator are good when you drop the tank.
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:28 PM   #3
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Cutting hole in floor to replace F53 ford fuel pump

It sounds easy...but unless you have something to drain all that fuel into its very hard to be SAFE. Gas becomes even more explosive when there are fumes and I would image we are talking a minimum of 40 gals.
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:35 PM   #4
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Bob,
After doing some research in the motorhome. There may be access to the tank from inside the rear storage compartment. I did remove one cover which was over the fill pipe making access to it easy. There are some other wooden panels held in place with screws which may allow me to get to the top of the tank. Then the question is will there be enough clearance to remove the pump module. I'm wondering just how much clearance is needed to remove it from the tank. The problem with draining the tank and using it in our other vehicles (2) is that we don't drive much so it would take a while to use up much of it. Getting 20 gal out of it into my minivan wouldn't take a long time.
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:55 PM   #5
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Boss1,
Actually I would think a tank that was near full would have less fumes than a tank that was near empty. The only problem would be dealing with the weight of a full tank. One thought I had was using the 3 straps that hold the tank to lower it. Add extensions to the bolts that hold the straps and then turn the nuts on the extensions to slowly lower the tank. This would keep it steady and prevent any tipping. In my case if I can gain access to the pump module through the rear storage compartment but don't have enough clearance to remove it I might not have to lower it much so this method might work.
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Old 05-31-2015, 05:01 PM   #6
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If you know anyone with a motorcycle jack it could make lowering the tank quite easy.
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Old 05-31-2015, 05:15 PM   #7
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Gordon, I have seen where others have used one and I take it would support the 450 pounds of a full tank, because a big motorcycle surely weights more than that. At the moment I don't know anyone who has one, but I haven't asked around either but it's a good thought.
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Old 05-31-2015, 06:13 PM   #8
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You can buy a motorcycle lift for $89, 20% off coupons are available everywhere (even on line) to reduce the cost more.

1500 lb. Capacity ATV/Motorcycle Lift
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Old 05-31-2015, 06:50 PM   #9
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I have a couple of friends who had success in dropping the rear of the tank just far enough to reach over the tank and remove the pump. They described a process where they loosened the front strap just enough to allow the tank to pivot down in the rear, while loosening the middle strap considerably more, and then loosening the rear strap completely. They did place cement blocks under the front of the tank in the event it dropped. The rear was lowered, and raised, with the aid of a shop jack, much the same way you might raise and lower a tranny for replacement.
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Old 05-31-2015, 07:02 PM   #10
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Holiday Rambler fuel pump swap through basement compartment ("FuelFunnel" post his change out starting on page 3)

F53 fuel tank removal thread with pictures
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Old 05-31-2015, 09:19 PM   #11
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Tim
Thanks for the pictures that confirm what I thought I could do. Maybe if I lower the front of the tank I would be able to remove the module but I'll find that out and post if it works.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:26 AM   #12
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Darn the luck, mmcl26554.
My fuel pump was dying on my way home from Utah in March, so I filled up last 250 miles from home and got home with less than 1/4 of a tank!

For that remaining bit, I pulled the drain plug in the bottom, drained it into a new oil catch pan, and then from there into fuel jugs. Borrow a few from the neighbors and refill your MH after the pump change.

I found that a floor jack was awkward, but helpful. I did put my leveling blocks under the corners of the tank so they'd catch it if it slipped (which it did once!).

For reinstalling, I found that a pair of 1" ratchet straps worked very, very well--much better than trying to control the tank by slowly loosening the nuts on the strap bolts.


If you can access the pump through a basement compartment, you are lucky! The pump and sender assembly is about 14" deep.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mmcl26554 View Post
Boss1,
Actually I would think a tank that was near full would have less fumes than a tank that was near empty. The only problem would be dealing with the weight of a full tank. One thought I had was using the 3 straps that hold the tank to lower it. Add extensions to the bolts that hold the straps and then turn the nuts on the extensions to slowly lower the tank. This would keep it steady and prevent any tipping. In my case if I can gain access to the pump module through the rear storage compartment but don't have enough clearance to remove it I might not have to lower it much so this method might work.
Michael
Quote:
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Tim
Thanks for the pictures that confirm what I thought I could do. Maybe if I lower the front of the tank I would be able to remove the module but I'll find that out and post if it works.
Michael
You will need more than that to remove the module--unless you're talking about lowering the front of the tank as well as accessing it from the basement.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:35 AM   #13
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I am talking about lowering the front of the tank and using the access window in the rear storage compartment, but cutting the rods as illustrated in the pictures is certainly a viable approach which I'm sure I can also do. On the other hand if I can lower the tank without doing that all the better. I won't know what I'll have to do until I do it. But there is rain today and I'm busy tomorrow so Thursday and Friday are the days of attack. Using the ratcheting straps is a good idea also.
Michael
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:51 AM   #14
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If you decide to drop the tank, it's still pretty tight between the floor and the top of the tank (the distance between the ground and the bottom of the tank is roughly what you will have to work with).


Park the MH on blocks to gain height before dropping the tank.
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