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Fugitive861 · 12-02-2020, 05:53 PM

After returning from a trip I noticed oil on the inside dual. It was a hub seal leaking. The gear oil went through the vented slots between the disks and got the inside of the rim. The brake pads did not get oil on them but when doing my research I saw someone who let it go for some time which contaminated the pads to the point of needing to be replaced. If anyone cares this is how I replaced mine.

Lowered rear leveling jacks all the way. Jacked up right side to remove tires. Removed brake caliper and placed on wooden blocks as to not hang from brake hose. The caliper bolts were very tight. My impact with "1400 foot pounds of nut busting power" would not break them loose. I had to use a 3/4 inch ratchet with a cheater bar and use a floor jack to press on the cheater bar. Removed the 15mm bolts which hold the axle shaft it, pulled the axle out and lost a minimal about of gear oil. Removed the 3 1/4, that's right 3 1/4 inch nut holding the hub/rotor assembly on, pulled the outer bearing and carefully removed the very heavy hub/rotor. I used a 2x4 to pound the inner bearing and seal out then separated the hub and rotor. I then pressure washed the hub and rotor and cleaned with brake cleaner. Inspection of the bearing and races showed no areas of concern so I reused them. Replaced inner seal, bolted rotor to hub and carefully slid onto clean axle housing being careful not to damage inner seal during assembly. Axle nut gets tightened to 70 foot pounds, backed off and then to 20...all the while spinning the hub assembly. The nut has a spring loaded toothed locking mechanism which is released by pressing inward on the socket. Installed axle shaft with new oring, brakes, wheels, wheel simulators. Now the procedure calls for packing the bearings with grease as they are clean and dry. I did not do that but pulled onto a ramp causing the axle to lean to that side, thus bathing the bearings for the first drive. The oring is Spicer 47857 and the seal is Spicer 47860. The 3 1/4 inch socket is OTC 1909 and is EIGHT sided. The first socket I purchased was 6 sided and obviously would not work. Again, this is for the Dana 80 axle.

I'm not looking forward to doing the other side, but I'm assuming it is probably the original seal from 1999 and rubber just doesn't hold up very well at that age.

HarryStone · 12-02-2020, 08:51 PM

caliper bolts on my 06 are only supposed to be 41 ft lbs. I'm assuming that yours were either overtorqued, blue locktite, or very rusted in place, or, your impact wrench is sadly lacking.

Fugitive861 · 12-02-2020, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryStone

caliper bolts on my 06 are only supposed to be 41 ft lbs. I'm assuming that yours were either overtorqued, blue locktite, or very rusted in place, or, your impact wrench is sadly lacking.

Strange...the front caliper bolts were the same way. Super tight with blue locktite. The impact is a new Milwaukee impact which seems plenty strong. I've broken two sockets with it. Claims to be 1400 foot pounds. On both the front and the rear I had to use a cheater bar and a floor jack to break them loose. No rust either. Definitely not 41 foot pounds.

HarryStone · 12-03-2020, 12:19 AM

The blue locative will do it. Almost as tuff as stud and bearing mount.

Regardless, nice write up. Thanks for taking the time to document it.

twinboat · 12-03-2020, 03:37 AM

The blue circled bolts are low, 41 ft lbs torque. They are slide bolts removed to replace the brake pads.

The red circled bolts are much higher torque. Removed to pull the hub/rotor.