DIY transmission oil change F53 chassis - HELP

[baloo]

All very good comments, and tough to decide opinion vs fact, as comments all sound very experienced and authoritative.

HOWEVER, CAN SOMEONE COMMENT ON HOW TO REMOVE THE OIL COOLER CONNECTION?

Regarding technique: since my transmission is cold, and I probably have the thermostat controlled valve, I will dump everything out of the lines, tick over the starter to drain the torque converter, measure the amounts of oil I get out, and then add in the new oil. I will also look for a magnefine inline filter and put that in place. I like that idea of double protection.

Maybe I will drain the oil out from the pan again in a few hundred miles and replenish those 7 or so quarts of oil. Least amount of effort and money, while still giving 80%+ revitalization of oil.

[Mark Kovalsky]

Originally Posted by baloo

HOWEVER, CAN SOMEONE COMMENT ON HOW TO REMOVE THE OIL COOLER CONNECTION?

It takes a special tool to release the lines, and even with the tool it isn't easy to do.

Originally Posted by baloo

tick over the starter to drain the torque converter,

I don't understand this at all. How will ticking over the starter get anything to come out of the torque converter?

Originally Posted by baloo

I will also look for a magnefine inline filter and put that in place. I like that idea of double protection.

I don't like that at all. The internal filter is WAY better than the add on. Ford used to require them, but never on these transmissions. I believe (though I haven't tested it) that this filter will cause too much restriction and will cause transmission problems. It was a good idea on the 4R100 transmission, but that doesn't mean anything to these newer transmissions.

[ga traveler]

[QUOTE=Mark Kovalsky;3698399]It takes a special tool to release the lines, and even with the tool it isn't easy to do.


I don't understand this at all. How will ticking over the starter get anything to come out of the torque converter?

He is talking about using the starter to bring the drain plug into position to take the plug out.

[Mark Kovalsky]

Thanks for clearing that up, now I understand what he meant. The problem is that there is no drain plug in the torque converter.

[baloo]

Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky

It takes a special tool to release the lines, and even with the tool it isn't easy to do.


I don't understand this at all. How will ticking over the starter get anything to come out of the torque converter?

I don't like that at all. The internal filter is WAY better than the add on. Ford used to require them, but never on these transmissions. I believe (though I haven't tested it) that this filter will cause too much restriction and will cause transmission problems. It was a good idea on the 4R100 transmission, but that doesn't mean anything to these newer transmissions.

1) tHANKS REF THE TOOL.
2) Ticking starter to get torque converter drain plug into view to open and drain -- NOT to drain it;
3) In line filter: OK - I won't argue ref restriction of flow; theoretically you would be correct, although the amount of restriction is going to be un-scientific debate until someone measures before and after, AND then determines if the restriction caused any REALLY undue strain.
But, that just makes my job easier. Will omit filter, since tranny running great despite my interventions to provide preventive maintenance.

[Mark Kovalsky]

Originally Posted by baloo

2) Ticking starter to get torque converter drain plug into view to open and drain -- NOT to drain it;

There is no drain plug in the torque converter. There is no way to drain the torque converter without a heated flush machine.

[Kahoona]

2 ways to look at it.
1- The way I do it, if the fluid has been abused and is dark or if I just want to be sure then it has to come out. RV transes are under strain. It can happen. I go to my regular mechanics who has a flushing machine that goes on the trans cooler lines. He puts fluid in the machine, turns it on and walks away. When it stops the fluid is all new and I pay. It's not that much more expensive. It could be critical if the fluid is burnt. Take it easier on the hills I bet your motor is under strain too!

2- Understand that completely changing the fluid takes three drain and fill cycles. On my cars I drain and fill every 2 years. If the fluid is pink it is fine. Since I last had mine flushed it is still as nice and pink as it was originally so I will just drain and fill.

[Mark Kovalsky]

Originally Posted by Kahoona

I go to my regular mechanics who has a flushing machine that goes on the trans cooler lines. He puts fluid in the machine, turns it on and walks away. When it stops the fluid is all new and I pay.

That won't work on the newer transmissions that have a thermostat, unless it is a heated machine. Heated machines are extremely rare.

[pasdad1]

Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky

That won't work on the newer transmissions that have a thermostat, unless it is a heated machine. Heated machines are extremely rare.

I would think the method of intermittently running the engine in short bursts to pump out fluid would work IF the vehicle was driven first such that the fluid is already hot. The thermostat would be open and allowing fluid to circulate in the cooler lines. I guess the thermostat could close again if the fluid cools however ....

[Mark Kovalsky]

Originally Posted by pasdad1

I would think the method of intermittently running the engine in short bursts to pump out fluid would work IF the vehicle was driven first such that the fluid is already hot. The thermostat would be open and allowing fluid to circulate in the cooler lines. I guess the thermostat could close again if the fluid cools however ....

Yes, the thermostat will close quickly and this won't work.

[wildmanbaker]

Mark, I can't believe the number of people not accepting your advice. In my former job, they said that "a good Reactor Operator, has the ability to recognize the correct answer when they hear it".

[RRR]

X2.

Originally Posted by wildmanbaker

Mark, I can't believe the number of people not accepting your advice. In my former job, they said that "a good Reactor Operator, has the ability to recognize the correct answer when they hear it".

[jpstakun]

To me, it's not worth the aggravation. Have it done at the Ford dealer. Last time I did, it cost around $150. There are a lot of "opinions" expressed here, some good and some questionable. Is it work screwing up a $2000 transmission?

[DennyR]

With only 21,000 miles, it seems like the risk - reward benefit is in the wrong court!