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Old 05-24-2019, 10:15 AM   #1
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EEC PORT LOCATION on Ď94 RAMBLER

Hey everyone! This is my first time/post here, and Iím excited for all you seasoned-fine-folks to shower me with answers (this is when you laugh). As the title says, I have a 94 rambler (36ft endeavor) and can not find the EEC port. Itís the F53 460 7.5L engine. Iím having a fuel or air problemó I just dropped the tank and installed a motorcraft pump, and itís still not revving up and able to get and stay moving/driving. Iíd like to just read the codes and go from there, rather than just replacing things with my fingers crossed, but I cannot find the port. I bought an EEC-IV port reader and 6ft extension from amazon (itíll be here tomorrow), and Iím anxious to use it the moment I get it! Thanks in advance for any and all help/time donated to my issue! A Million thanks!
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:10 PM   #2
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I believe the 94 F53 has the OBD-1 port just above the radiator on the drivers side. It will be plugged into a fixture. 95 and later were in the dog house just across from the gas pedal.
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Old 05-27-2019, 09:55 AM   #3
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So I found the port, got codes 113 and 212. I replaced the gray Ignition Control Module with a new black one (every thing I’ve discovered pointed to the black one being the correct one), and the code 212 DID DISAPPEAR from the next scan I did, BUT the engine is still doing the same thing (cuts out entirely at a high rev/rpm— seems like a fuel or air/vacuum problem)!! I have replaced the in-tank pump with a motorcraft pump (I did that before I got the code reader hoping it was the only problem), I have replaced the gas cap, I replaced the Throttle Positions sensor, cleaned 5 of the 8 spark plug (can’t access the last three till I get a swivel tool for my ratchet), and I’m still getting the same problem. The last code is 113 which I believe is the O2 sensor — I’m replacing that this week and I’ll run another scan afterwards. Not sure what to do from here or if it does the same thing after I clear the 113 code/O2 sensor..... ASLO, can anyone shed light on this in-line pump??? It never had power before when it was on an auxiliary tank, not sure if this is an addition or standard? Does it need to be wired into the ignition? I’m lost
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:07 PM   #4
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that inline pump is not standard I'd remove it seams like your trying to push gas thru a restriction! if it not pumping ...
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Old 05-28-2019, 04:58 AM   #5
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Code 113 is more than likely from checking the codes with a cold engine.
The engine needs to be up to operating temp before running the self-test.
Code 113 has nothing to do with the O2 sensor.



The inline fuel pump is a clue that somebody else had a fuel problem or so they thought.


You need to put a fuel pressure gauge on the engine fuel rail and drive the F53 while someone monitors the gauge.
At idle you should get 30-32psi and while going up a hill at WOT it should be about 40psi.
You can either rent a gauge from an auto part store or buy one off amazon.


Make sure that heat sink for the ICM is back on with a lot of white Thermal Compound.
DO NOT USE Dialectic paste (grease) as it is not a heat transfer compound.
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Old 05-28-2019, 06:58 AM   #6
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The old gray ICM did have red grease on it. I will add white thermal today, thanks! I will also get the pressure gauge today and see what I can do. The engine seems to start great, idle great, and even rev-up great— but when it goes close to wide open throttle it cuts out entirely. Also, what about those spark plugs?? Should I replace them? I was told they’re super cheap... I’m at least cleaning them all today.

As I said previously on this thread it seems like air or fuel is way too much or way too little when the throttle opens wide..... thanks everyone, I’ll be out there today and hopefully I get somewhere!
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Old 05-28-2019, 08:10 AM   #7
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So you are saying the in-line pump IS NOT factory? Should I remove it??
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Old 05-28-2019, 08:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.J View Post
So you are saying the in-line pump IS NOT factory? Should I remove it??
yes I would ..I think that is your fuel restriction . in tank pump cant force enough gas at high engine to keep up That's what I think . you said it is not connected to electric so tank pump has to force gas thru it .. I THINK!
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Old 05-28-2019, 09:19 AM   #9
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When I bought this the previous owner had put it on an auxiliary tank because he could not figure out this issue. I know this rig has potential because it drove like a champ on the auxiliary tank. Iím not sure if that in-line pump was connected on the auxiliary tank, I think it was and they had it hardwired to the ignition relay. Because he told me when I hook it back up to the main tank I need to pull these makeshift wires and add the fuse back in that spot. I guess I will look into cutting the lines and patching it today
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:15 AM   #10
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So I ran the KOEO test on a very warmed up motor and got back; 126, 113, 543, and 556. I’m looking them up now- seems to be the MAP sensor(126), fuel pump secondary circuit fault (543), fuel pump relay primary circuit fault (556), intake air charge temp sensor above max voltage (113). I have little-to know previous knowledge of these. Please help! (Subford, I have yet to do the pressure test- hopefully later today.)
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:11 PM   #11
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KOEO:
KOEO is an electrical test of the circuits/wiring of the sensors and solenoids. It is looking for a ball park figure for the test to be OK.



DTC 126 indicates the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)/Barometric Pressure (BARO) sensor is out of Self-Test range. The correct MAP/BARO range is from 1.4 to 1.6 volts.

Possible causes:

-- MAP/BARO circuit open between sensor vehicle harness connector and PCM.

-- MAP/BARO circuit shorted to VREF, SIG RTN, or GND.

-- Damaged MAP/BARO sensor.

-- Vacuum trapped at MAP/BARO sensor.

-- High atmospheric pressure.

-- VREF circuit open at MAP/BARO sensor.

-- SIG RTN circuit open at MAP/BARO sensor.

-- Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:19 PM   #12
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This 113 is most offten caused by cold weather during the KOEO self-test.



DTC 118 (ECT) or 113 (IAT) indicates the sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum. The maximum for ECT and IAT sensors is 4.6 volts.

Possible causes:

-- Open in harness (IAT or ECT).

-- IAT or ECT connection.

-- IAT or ECT sensor.

-- Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:24 PM   #13
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543 code is caused most often cause by a bad fuel pump or an open circuit during the KOEO self-test.
The fuel pump relay may have not closed also.


DTC 543 indicates a fuel pump secondary circuit failure between the B(+) supply and the FPM connection to the power-to-pump circuit.

Possible causes:

No Start:

-- Open circuit between the B(+) supply and the FPM connection to the power-to-pump circuit.

-- Fuel pump relay contacts always open.

Engine Starts:

-- HO2S short to power (dual HO2S applications).

-- Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:27 PM   #14
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556 most often caused by an open fuse link at the starter relay.
This may have also caused the 543 code.
It may also be that the fuel wiring is not factory wired.


DTC 556 indicates a fuel pump primary circuit failure.

Possible causes:

-- Open or shorted circuit.

-- Damaged fuel pump relay.

-- Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
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