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Old 12-08-2021, 07:13 PM   #1
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Engine Acts Like It Has A Governor

Hello all, I hope this thread finds you all well during this holiday season.
Driving 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34V with a V10 Ford Chassis.

Last week, we left Seattle to head to Cali for a wedding that my wife and I were to work at.
While on I-5, we got to about SeaTac (20 minutesish) and I lost a ton of power. In N, I could rev it up no problem. But when I had it in D, it acted as though there was a governor. Going up hill, it wouldn't get past 3000rpm. Going downhill, obviously the speeds get higher and again, sticks to 3000rpm and won't change gears. I believe that this is Limp Mode or Limp Home Mode. I'm only guessing because I have never had a vehicle do this to me. Oh and also no visible codes were being thrown. (visible, as in check engine light)

From the get go, I didn't think it was the fuel pump because no matter what, it wasn't acting like it was starving for fuel. I limped it to the auto parts store and I changed out the fuel filter and spark plugs (just trying to go cheap and go from there of diagnosing, as I didn't see any codes)

So, that didn't fix it. I limped it to Longview Wa and am currently stuck here. On the way here, a code popped for campshaft positioning sensor bank 1. I changed that out. Didn't fix it. So I took it to a trucking repair company, they came in, hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and said its the fuel pump. They said that my pump should be at 35psi and mine is at 30. My hobby is my classic cars, so I'm not scared to get my hands dirty and although I don't know everything, I can usually diagnose and figure it out. I don't think its the fuel pump, its just not having any characteristics of it (IMHO).

Today, I got my code reader out again and its popping new codes. Now mind you, these codes did not set off the check engine light, so they could have been here before.
The codes are as follows-
P0401 - EGR - I swapped it out for a new one. Still having the "governor" issue.
P1132 - Lack of HO2S11 Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich
P1152 - Lack of HO2S21 Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich
I crawled underneath. The two switches are still there and plugged in nicely (old square plugs, all stock is now round). No remnants of rodent poop/pee/wires being chewed.

I'm out of solutions. And I really don't want to pay 700$ for a new fuel pump, especially if that's not the issue. My sincere apologies, also OverDrive Handle was not blinking.

Please Help. I want to get my fambam back home. lol.
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Old 12-08-2021, 07:42 PM   #2
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On the heated 02 sensor codes check the fuse, they may not be getting power. If the ECM sees rich it is going to lean the mixture to compensate. Also the obvious, did you check the air intake for a restriction? I once had a Buick that did as you describe and a rag that my dad had left in there got sucked into the snorkel.
edit: I remembered something I learned from Scanner Danner, the rich 02 sensor report can be caused by a lean mixture caused by a vacuum leak or an intake air leak after the MAF or in the PCV or EGR piping. The ECM sees lean and richens the mixture to try and compensate. Also Google how to clean the MAF sensor, it's quite easy. I did see reference to low fuel pressure being a possible cause online.
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Old 12-08-2021, 09:24 PM   #3
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Does sound like fuel pressure, or fuel volume issue.
You may want to bite the bullet and change both the pump and fuel pressure regulator.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pressure.html

You should get about 38-40 with the vacuum disconnected from the regulator.

2000 F-53 V-10, 6.8L in a friends 2001 Winnebago Motor Home.
During his troubleshooting for a misfire condition, he checked the fuel pressure as a possible culprit.
The fuel pressure for this engine should be ~35 - 40 psi.
If you have a gauge, you should see ~40 psi when you go up a steep hill (low vacuum condition), and when you level out, should see the psi level off maybe to 30 psi or so. (less fuel demand).
You can pull off the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator & put your finger on the hose. This should give you Maximum fuel pressure.
With the 'Key On', you should get ~ 35-40 psi and after about 30 min. it should level off with a drop of about 5 psi.

This information is from the Ford Technical Rep about 2 months ago. He was an previous ford motor tech and he knew what he was talking about.
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Old 12-08-2021, 09:24 PM   #4
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A clogged catalytic converter may also cause those symptoms.
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Old 12-09-2021, 09:56 AM   #5
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Simple things first: change the fuel filter. It's the most likely cause of inadequate fuel flow. And inability to deliver fuel tends to trigger air/fuel management problems as well.
Yes, it could be a cat converter or fuel pump, but those are rare issues on a modern engine. Don't leap at obscure issues until the simpler stuff is ruled out.
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Old 12-09-2021, 10:21 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
Simple things first: change the fuel filter. It's the most likely cause of inadequate fuel flow. And inability to deliver fuel tends to trigger air/fuel management problems as well.
Yes, it could be a cat converter or fuel pump, but those are rare issues on a modern engine. Don't leap at obscure issues until the simpler stuff is ruled out.
He indicated in his thread that the first thing he did was change the fuel filter and spark plugs.
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Old 12-09-2021, 10:49 AM   #7
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A clogged catalytic converter may also cause those symptoms.
Yep. Had that issue on my rig. Ran fine on the flat but fell on it's face as soon as you start to climb a grade. No MIL light. If the rig is in limp mode the OD light will blink. Clogged converter had no indication except reduced performance.
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Old 12-09-2021, 11:16 AM   #8
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Yep. Had that issue on my rig. Ran fine on the flat but fell on it's face as soon as you start to climb a grade. No MIL light. If the rig is in limp mode the OD light will blink. Clogged converter had no indication except reduced performance.
I had a Ford truck years past that had a clogged converter. I was told that I could install a pressure gauge on the O2 sensor before the converter and if the pressure was over ~3 psi that the converter was clogged. On that truck though I was able to disconnect the converter and let it hang by one bolt and test drive the vehicle a short distance and determined that a clogged converter was the issue. I suspect that the exhaust fumes would be more concerning doing that test (an open exhaust) on a MH though.

I wanted to add that even before catalytic converters I found that some mufflers can clog up and will cause a similar issue.

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Old 12-09-2021, 12:31 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by bigb56 View Post
On the heated 02 sensor codes check the fuse, they may not be getting power. If the ECM sees rich it is going to lean the mixture to compensate. Also the obvious, did you check the air intake for a restriction? I once had a Buick that did as you describe and a rag that my dad had left in there got sucked into the snorkel.
edit: I remembered something I learned from Scanner Danner, the rich 02 sensor report can be caused by a lean mixture caused by a vacuum leak or an intake air leak after the MAF or in the PCV or EGR piping. The ECM sees lean and richens the mixture to try and compensate. Also Google how to clean the MAF sensor, it's quite easy. I did see reference to low fuel pressure being a possible cause online.
Thanks so much. The HO2 Sensor fuse is not popped.
Air intake is not obstructed.

I don't hear any hissing, and I feel like that it is a huge enough problem that a small vacuum leak would not cause this big of an issue? Correct me if I'm wrong.

I'll look up cleaning the MAF sensor.
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Old 12-09-2021, 01:47 PM   #10
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So, what you guys are saying is that I should cut my convertor off and report it as stolen so that insurance will replace it? lol.
j/k
Not a difficult job to do on my own, if needed. Just cold and wet cause it doesn't seem to want to stop raining up here. Good ol PNW.
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Old 12-09-2021, 05:05 PM   #11
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I ran into this with one of my customers. It was a brand new 1999 allegro. 2,000 miles. Ford uses a honeycomb ceramic converter. It had broken up and clogged the exhaust. It would barely run. We took out the three bolts just in front of the converter, separated the pipes and test drove. It was really loud but ran great.
I would suggest you try this next.
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Old 12-10-2021, 09:48 AM   #12
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Another way to test is to pull the O2 sensors in front of the converter. If the bolts on the actual pipe are in bad shape it might be easier. This will also be very loud. The small openings of the O2 sensors won't let the exhaust breathe a whole lot but all you need is enough difference in performance to say there's a converter clogging problem or not.
It will run fine in default mode without the O2 sensors hooked up.
Those backpressure gauges are nice though. I've been eyeing one made by Sealey but don't actually need it.
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Old 12-11-2021, 06:05 PM   #13
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First thought, does the OBD not tell you CEL=ON or OFF? Does it light during Test when IGN=ON. before starting? I am wondering if PO removed bulb?
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Old 12-11-2021, 07:00 PM   #14
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I can Only suggest THIS FP REGULATOR as cheap, easy, fast and THEN, if no improvement, THEN do FUEL PUMP? https://www.ebay.com/itm/29274018146...75938b4aadf735
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