Engine turns over but won't start anytime it sits more than two days.

[tiffy2000]

Pretty sure there is a fuel pump relay that can be swapped out with another relay to eliminate that .

found this

A voltmeter or test light on the DG/YE input lead to the Inertia Switch will tell you if you are even getting 12v power to it.
The fuel pump power is provided by the Fuel Pump Relay, to the Inertia Switch, then on to the pump.
Your problem may just be the Fuel Pump Relay contacts are bad.



Pull the PCM and fuel pump relays out and set them aside. Then pull the horn and blower relays and put them in where the PCM and fuel pump relays were. Try starting the engine now.
Over the years I have found more relays bad for the PCM than the fuel pump. The PCM relay powers the fuel pump relay.
If this doesn't help I would lift the fuse - relay block and look for corroded wires or connectors on the bottom side.

[daveandcarol]

RE: TeJay's comment about smacking the tank with a deadblow hammer:
Many years ago I owned an MG. Occasionally while driving it, the electric fuel pump (under the floor behind the passenger seat) would simply cut out. I became adept at reaching behind the seat and smacking the floor with the brass mallet used for the wheel hubs (thereby restarting the pump) without looking while still in motion. This story doesn't help your situation but I thought you might get a chuckle out of it.

[harmonybrew]

Thanks everyone for the help. We will beat this thing and be sure to put the answer to the problem here in order to be an aid for anyone with the same problem in the future.

When running, I can definitely here the fuel pump at the open cap. So, the pump isn't running and even dies while idling on occasion. Searching an electrical answer.

I did switch out the fuel relay with the horn relay previously, but I never thought of the PCM. I am going to try that today.

I have a diagram of this power distribution box, but I am not completely sure it is the right one. They make this exact looking box but with different configurations. If anyone has picture for the 'power distribution box' for the 99 Ford (not chevy) Bounder, I would love to be sure I have the right information.

I have beat on the fuel tank myself, back when I though it might be stuck. It never helped me, but I am pretty sure now that the pump isn't my problem.

Marcus

[harmonybrew]

One other thing, out of curiosity, My battery board is bad, causing the switch between the house and coach batteries not to close, so when I set up my unit, I plug in a trickle charger to the battery. Could this cause electrical problems with extended use?

[TeJay]

Marcus,

Here's another type of diagnostic technique!!

Have you done any serious wiggling or moving of wiring harnesses under the hood or under the dog house or under the dash when it won't fire??? You might have a loose/intermittent connection somewhere and by moving wiring harnesses it just might show its self.

A similar thing happened with another poster several years ago. The RV wouldn't crank.and there were no light or anything. The tow truck arrived lifted the RV and he followed them back to a service center. On the way back the lights came back on. When they arrived the RV started and drove until it again lost all voltages. I believe he had a loose ground which was discovered by moving crap around.

Had a friend bring me his car which would stop running for no good reason. We lifted the hood and started the engine. I leaned over the engine and started pocking around when I accidentally put my hand on the flexible rubber air intake and the engine stopped. There was a split in the rubber which allowed air to enter the engine bypassing some air intake sensors causing the engine to stop.

Those type of parts are not usually found at a parts house. I wrapped some tape over/around the split so he could drive home and he eventually got one at the dealer.

[Jim_HiTek]

Originally Posted by harmonybrew

One other thing, out of curiosity, My battery board is bad, causing the switch between the house and coach batteries not to close, so when I set up my unit, I plug in a trickle charger to the battery. Could this cause electrical problems with extended use?

Rather doubt it. All it says to the RV system circuitry is that the voltage is up in the 13.xx range. That shouldn't cause any issues.

[tiffy2000]

Originally Posted by daveandcarol

RE: TeJay's comment about smacking the tank with a deadblow hammer:
Many years ago I owned an MG. Occasionally while driving it, the electric fuel pump (under the floor behind the passenger seat) would simply cut out. I became adept at reaching behind the seat and smacking the floor with the brass mallet used for the wheel hubs (thereby restarting the pump) without looking while still in motion. This story doesn't help your situation but I thought you might get a chuckle out of it.

Had the exact same issue with my '59 MGA, got tired of wacking it and replaced it

[harmonybrew]

TeJay

That was advice from a mechanic friend of mine. He said that when the motor was running that I should go around and wiggle wires to see if I could make it die. I haven't tried that yet and now it looks like I won't need to.

Tiffy2000

Thanks for the tip!! I had switched out the fuel pump relay without any luck. But, the PCM. I never thought of that. I switched it out with the blower relay. They have the exact same part number. The vehicle started right up. More importantly, the blower motor no longer works!!

Main two lessons for anyone who reads this far down the line:

1.) You can pop the fuel cap and listen. You will here the pump if it is running. If you need to know pressure, of course you can get a fuel pressure tester kit, but if you just want to know if it is running... a simple ear to the tank will do the trick.

2.) Most important! Don't just switch out the fuel pump relay, switch out the PCM too! The other day I called for a tow-truck that never came. Thank God! If it had, this $10 dollar repair would have probably topped $1000, especially since I would have had to get two hotel rooms for 3 nights just to get to Monday when the shop could take a look at it.



Thanks everyone for all the knowledge. One day when I am not raising 4 kids under 12, I am going to hang out on the forum and help others.

God Bless!!!

[harmonybrew]

Originally Posted by tiffy2000

Pretty sure there is a fuel pump relay that can be swapped out with another relay to eliminate that .

found this

A voltmeter or test light on the DG/YE input lead to the Inertia Switch will tell you if you are even getting 12v power to it.
The fuel pump power is provided by the Fuel Pump Relay, to the Inertia Switch, then on to the pump.
Your problem may just be the Fuel Pump Relay contacts are bad.



Pull the PCM and fuel pump relays out and set them aside. Then pull the horn and blower relays and put them in where the PCM and fuel pump relays were. Try starting the engine now.
Over the years I have found more relays bad for the PCM than the fuel pump. The PCM relay powers the fuel pump relay.
If this doesn't help I would lift the fuse - relay block and look for corroded wires or connectors on the bottom side.

So wise! PCM Relay! That was the answer!!!

[Dav L]

Gees, a gun shot of diagnostics...
When engine off, take the air filter out. Give a short shot of starting fluid and immediately try to start it. If it starts for at least a second, you have a fuel problem. If it doesn't fire, check for spark.

If it does start, check fuel pressure next. If less then spec (or zero), check for voltage at the fuel pump. If none, check the fuel pump relay and PCM relay. If there is 12 volts, replace the fuel pump...


Edit: so, in reading the last post...the fuel pump relay fixed it?

[JIMBO34PA]

Originally Posted by Dav L

Gees, a gun shot of diagnostics...
When engine off, take the air filter out. Give a short shot of starting fluid and immediately try to start it. If it starts for at least a second, you have a fuel problem. If it doesn't fire, check for spark.

If it does start, check fuel pressure next. If less then spec (or zero), check for voltage at the fuel pump. If none, check the fuel pump relay and PCM relay. If there is 12 volts, replace the fuel pump...


Edit: so, in reading the last post...the fuel pump relay fixed it?

No, he said EEC power relay was failure. Key turns EEC power on then ecm cycles fuel pump for a few seconds . Better to be lucky than good sometimes !

[harmonybrew]

Originally Posted by Dav L

Gees, a gun shot of diagnostics...
When engine off, take the air filter out. Give a short shot of starting fluid and immediately try to start it. If it starts for at least a second, you have a fuel problem. If it doesn't fire, check for spark.

If it does start, check fuel pressure next. If less then spec (or zero), check for voltage at the fuel pump. If none, check the fuel pump relay and PCM relay. If there is 12 volts, replace the fuel pump...


Edit: so, in reading the last post...the fuel pump relay fixed it?

Thanks for a little more knowledge. Yep PCM. I won't forget that one!

[GypsyR]

I'm just glad to see a resolution and also that you took the time to share it with us.

[wildmanbaker]

Yea, I would rather to be lucky, than good. It has always turned out better for me.