f53 1999 heater leaking - how to dissmantle to get to the faulty radiator?

[jack_top]

Hi.

The patient is f53 rv 1999 winnebago chieftain with v10 ford 6.8l engine.

Today I've noticed that the heater radiator (probably) is leaking. Probably is because I can see coolant liquid flowing beneath the plastic cover, so it can also be a faulty rubber line or... Anyway, the problem is inside.

I don't know how to get this plastic cover off. There's a lots of pipes going in and out and I don't want to do a mess.

Can you point me in the right direction? Photos, videos, anything would be greately appreciated.

Photos of the cover attached (1st- front, 2nd- leaking from the bottom part, 3rd- SN number that I don't know anything about, 4th - pipes going into the cover that prevents the plastic coer to be removed easily).

Thanks.

[Olyteddy]

What model RV do you have? It might help someone answer your question.

[dabrooks]

His post says he has a 1999 Winabego Chieftan.

[donr103]

Well at least you are on the right track.. you need to take lots of pictures.. top and bottom.. next it will get messy.. very messy.. that is why it is about 4k in labor to get a shop yo put 600 dollars part in.. so first tell us if you are going to do it.. there is no reason to tell a shop how to do it.. and they read this and charge you 4k anyway..
Good luck and keep us posted

[jack_top]

Originally Posted by donr103

Well at least you are on the right track.. you need to take lots of pictures.. top and bottom.. next it will get messy.. very messy.. that is why it is about 4k in labor to get a shop yo put 600 dollars part in.. so first tell us if you are going to do it.. there is no reason to tell a shop how to do it.. and they read this and charge you 4k anyway..
Good luck and keep us posted

There's no way a, shop will do it. I'm in Poland, Europe and only shop is my hands... So it's just me.

[code2e]

The heater / A/C system is an aftermarket assembly installed by Winnebago when they built the coach. It is not a Ford unit. It appears to be necessary to remove the unit from the coach in order to disassemble it to replace the heater core. I do no see any access in your pictures that would allow the core to be changed in vehicle.

The 2 hoses in pic #4 are the heater hoses connected to the core itself. There are no hoses inside. The hoses are likely 5/8" and 3/4" inside diameter. Find some round pieces, such as dowels, to plug them when you remove the hoses. You will also need to disconnect the A/C lines. They are under pressure and the Freon should be recovered, not dumped to atmosphere. Look inside the coach ahead of passengers seat. Likely there is a panel to remove, accessing the unit mounting. Undo all the wiring, taking lots of pictures to help later.

Once unit is out, open it up and remove the core. A radiator shop should be able to match it up or possibly repair it. Not a quick or easy job, I admit. Good luck.

[ga traveler]

Check the two rubber hose clamps for leaking. It is probably the core, but as a service manager, we had several customers come in with a core leak and after carefully checking the heater, we found the clamp was loose and allowed coolant the squirt into the heater core giving impression the core was bad.
We replaced the clamps and all was well.

[Deznut]

1) DO NOT pull on the hoses to remove from the "stubs"...remove the clamps and use a carpet knife ( hooked knife blade) to cut a slit in the hose and carefully "peal" them off the inlet and outlet stubs. ( if you pull on the stubs you risk pulling the stubs out of the heater core) here in the states we have some companies that offer a "U tube" that connects the two hoses and by-passes the heater core...the engine will still operate but you have no heater....basically you connect the two hoses together without a connection to the heater core. ( no more leaks , but no heat!)
OR
suggestion - think long and hard...
1) Do NOT pull on the hoses to remove from the "stubs"...remove the clamps and use a carpet knife ( hooked knife blade) to cut a slit in the hose and carefully "peal" them off the inlet and outlet stubs. ( if you pull on the stubs you risk pulling the stubs out of the heater core) Replace with new hoses and clamps if you can
2) think/plan real good ...cut the plastic housing ( on the engine bay/outside in such a way that you can remove the A/C coils and the leaky heater core ( from the engine bay )....you need to leave a "flange" on the cut edges so you can replace the cut out material with a piece of steel or plastic and use short sheet metal screws to attach the "new cover" using the "flange edge" on the old cover as a place for the screws to engage.
3) since the original cover is plastic you may be able to use a soldering iron with a knife edge to melt the old cover to gain access to the heater core ...if you use a saw/knife you must be careful not to cut the A/C coil or you will have excessive cost in the repair.
4) I have done this on old autos here in the states with success - it was either cut out the heater core from the engine side and fabricate a cover or or remove the dash board and all of the cables/connectors and electronics hoping that it will all function correctly once re- installed ( NOT likely)
Hope I gave you some "food" for thought - good luck

[jack_top]

Damn. It looks like it's going to be a hard hard job to do properly. I think I'm gonna remove the front engine cap (I have to do it anyway for different purposes) so I'll have a best possible access to the broken radiator.

Do I understand it correctly, that the radiator we're talking about is for hot 'coolant' and is also filled with AC liquid? Or there are two different radiators just in one housing?

Are there any inside photos of this unit, or the schematics where the hoses go and where the radiator is exactly?

Did anyone of you used radiator liquid sealants that works from inside the radiator after being added to the coolant? Will it work?

[jack_top]

Is there a chance that I can do the work like here?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6BAS6aWRHI

[Deznut]

1) there are (2) "radiators" one for A/C ( evaporation coil) , and one for heating ( heater core) unfortunately the heater core is closer to the interior of the cab, and the A/C coils are closer to the exterior of the engine compartment. (when using the A/C.... the A/C coils "sweat" and the water or sweat just leaks out of the coils onto the ground from the exterior of the housing)
2) IF you try and remove the "Heater Core" from the INSIDE of the cab you may not need to remove the A/C evaporation coil.
3) If you work on it from the OUTSIDE of the cab ( the engine bay) it looks like you must remove the A/C coil first to gain access to the heater core
4) you can try and use some "Stop Leak" to cure the heater core leak , but most of the chemicals made to fix the leaking are designed for the engine radiator, getting the chemicals to flow into the heater core may take several attempts and you could clog up the engine's radiator resulting in engine over heating ( it's worth a try)

https://barsleaks.com/product-category/cooling-system/
P/N 1186???

5) the Youtube video is similar to what you need to do to fix the problem correctly....the video does NOT show how the owner removed the mounting hardware for the heating and cooling unit. I fear it was done inside the cab after taking the dashboard apart
6) in most assembly of new cars and trucks the heater core and A/C coils are the "first" sub assembly to go into the new frame/new chassis...and then the dash board and then the interior...hth

[jack_top]

Originally Posted by Deznut

1) there are (2) "radiators" one for A/C ( evaporation coil) , and one for heating ( heater core) unfortunately the heater core is closer to the interior of the cab, and the A/C coils are closer to the exterior of the engine compartment. (when using the A/C.... the A/C coils "sweat" and the water or sweat just leaks out of the coils onto the ground from the exterior of the housing)
2) IF you try and remove the "Heater Core" from the INSIDE of the cab you may not need to remove the A/C evaporation coil.
3) If you work on it from the OUTSIDE of the cab ( the engine bay) it looks like you must remove the A/C coil first to gain access to the heater core
4) you can try and use some "Stop Leak" to cure the heater core leak , but most of the chemicals made to fix the leaking are designed for the engine radiator, getting the chemicals to flow into the heater core may take several attempts and you could clog up the engine's radiator resulting in engine over heating ( it's worth a try)

https://barsleaks.com/product-category/cooling-system/
P/N 1186???

5) the Youtube video is similar to what you need to do to fix the problem correctly....the video does NOT show how the owner removed the mounting hardware for the heating and cooling unit. I fear it was done inside the cab after taking the dashboard apart
6) in most assembly of new cars and trucks the heater core and A/C coils are the "first" sub assembly to go into the new frame/new chassis...and then the dash board and then the interior...hth

While searching online I've stumbled across this https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ns-136196.html

The author removed (partially) the front engine cap, and then, started from the front...

Quote

It's now time to remove the clips around the heater core box. There are sixteen clips, four on each side. Although the directions say it is necessary to disconnect the A/C lines, it is not necessary. The box will now just pry apart. The box is kind of brittle, so be gentle taking it apart. Once apart, the heater core will come right out with a little bit of coaxing.

What do you think? Is it possible to do it this way? There are some clips on my photos that can be removed.

[jack_top]

Originally Posted by ga traveler

Check the two rubber hose clamps for leaking. It is probably the core, but as a service manager, we had several customers come in with a core leak and after carefully checking the heater, we found the clamp was loose and allowed coolant the squirt into the heater core giving impression the core was bad.
We replaced the clamps and all was well.

When looking at the photo of both hose clams I don't see any leaks beneath any of them. Should I look elsewhere?

[Russ Silber]

Originally Posted by jack_top

When looking at the photo of both hose clams I don't see any leaks beneath any of them. Should I look elsewhere?

Might leak when engine running water pump. Change clamps anyway.